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Tomster

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Other than the battery, what else did you need? Terminal adapters, brackets, etc?
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Zitrosounds

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Terminal adapters for sure and make sure you buy the ones from antigravity. I am making a custom bracket but for now I am using foam to keep the battery from sliding around. My first track event this season is in March and need it finished by then. I'll share what I come up with.
 

2qwk4ya

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I just wanted to give you guys a heads up that "Blownone" on the forum has been running a "ATX-20 restart" for almost a year. Has never had one issue with this battery and has put over 12k miles on it. Still running strong. His car is a 2017 S550 GT. And he never did any battery reset or nothing. Mounted it and that"s it. No trickle charging nothing.

Post 115 is when he put the battery in. link below


https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/2017-blk-blk-base-gt-procharger-f1a-build.88134/page-6




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Demonic

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We're now in the depth of winter in New England, and haven't been driving the car so I haven't added much here. But just wanted to add on to what Harold (Zitrosounds) had said. He's running the ATX20 non-restart battery, which is the same battery I was running without issue. The naming confusion is because the site uses the model number "YTX20" as the designation for the ATX20 without Restart. To address what 2qwk4ya said about the other member not resetting the battery status in Forscan and just dropping the battery in and running it - yes, the ATX20 non-Restart (YTX20) will run in the car without any battery resets. However, any time you drop in a smaller battery in the car, not just Antigravity but any smaller sized lithium battery for that matter, the car's system thinks your stock battery is at less capacity and tries to charge it differently to compensate thinking that your stock battery is at decreased capacity. The car will run fine but it doesn't charge as efficiently. I verified this through Forscan, and saw that the charging system keeps trying to charge the battery back to stock levels. When you do the battery reset the car relearns the battery and begins charging it more appropriately.
 

2qwk4ya

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Like I said he has the ATX-20 "with RESTART" . I do not know what your issue was. All I know is it has been working great for almost a year so far. Used as a daily driver put over 12k mi. in last 11mths. And I will be installing one as soon as I finish my Twin turbo build. Just giving real world experience with the ATX-20 with restart.
 

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cjgt350

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cjgt350

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Like I said he has the ATX-20 "with RESTART" . I do not know what your issue was. All I know is it has been working great for almost a year so far. Used as a daily driver put over 12k mi. in last 11mths. And I will be installing one as soon as I finish my Twin turbo build. Just giving real world experience with the ATX-20 with restart.
The GT350 has a different charging system than the other S550 models. Using these batteries with Restart technology is like playing Russian roulette with your GT350's electrical system. Until they figure out how to get the two to work with each other it would be very wise to avoid the Restart tech on these batteries for the GT350. For other S550's it has been demonstrated the Restart tech works just fine.
 
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Demonic

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Like I said he has the ATX-20 "with RESTART" . I do not know what your issue was. All I know is it has been working great for almost a year so far. Used as a daily driver put over 12k mi. in last 11mths. And I will be installing one as soon as I finish my Twin turbo build. Just giving real world experience with the ATX-20 with restart.
I understand. The problem was not 'my' problem. Multiple GT350 owners experienced issues with the "Restart" versions, and the real time data-logging in Forscan showed me that immediately on start up the GT350's charging system triggers the protection cut off in the Restart battery, leading to the car then running on alternator power, while the battery tries to recover and then shuts off again, and the cycle continues. I understand you're trying to help, but please realize that until you've put the Restart battery yourself into a GT350 and verified it runs properly on Forscan, your situation is slightly different.

Scott let me know that he's coming out with a new line of batteries, which I can then test in the GT350 and pull the Forscan data logs to assess compatibility. But that may not be until later this year.
 

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Has anyone removed the complete OEM battery box/ enclosure when installing the Morris Engineering mount? Seems like an obvious place to declutter and drop weight for a track car.
 

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Has anyone removed the complete OEM battery box/ enclosure when installing the Morris Engineering mount? Seems like an obvious place to declutter and drop weight for a track car.
The Morris Engineering mount is made to fit into a recessed area of the battery box and includes specific hardware to adapt/mount to the OE battery box. In other words I don't think it would work without the OE box. While it may declutter you also lose the protection it provides. As far as weight it is negligible in savings if removed.
 

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I just got finished installing my ATX-20 non-restart battery. I fabricated a tray out of rigid aluminium sheet. I'll make a better tray before I hit the track. Couple things I noticed and was wondering about...

1. Voltage is at 14v for about 30 seconds after I start up, then goes to about 13v. Then fluctuates between 12.5-13v. That's normal, right?
2. The Ford battery cable connections seem a tiny bit loose with the supplied Anti-Gravity posts. What other posts are recommended?
3. I plan on getting a Lithium Battery tender, but in the meantime when I disconnect the battery do I need to reset with Forscan each time I reconnect?
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Antigravity Batteries

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Hey all,

Scott from Antigravity Batteries... damn, about a month ago when we became Sponsors I made a long post about the batteries and other stuff and either I didn't press the submit button, or something wacky happened and my post didn't go up. I was wondering why there were no notifications to my email about this thread. Anyway Antigravity Batteries is a sponsor here now. So I'll be available to answer some questions and bring up some new products that are pretty freaking cool.

First off MASSIVE thanks to Demonic (Austin) for testing and getting me some data on his real world testing of the RE-START vs the Non-RE-START models.... It was a big help just to drill down and understand not only the Ford System, but how it was conflicting with our Circuitry in the ATX30 RE-START Model. I went on to do a bunch of research on the Ford IBSensors and learned alot. That was a big help. And thanks to companies like Morris and Ben at Fast House for making cool products for our products. And last thanks to the rational folks on the board who didn't want to bash.

Getting info from Demonic lead to some updates on the ATX30 and ATX20 that we are currently testing now, and if it works it might be a great option in the future because the RE-START versions are meant to be a protection against accidental over-discharge, and to not allow the battery to be damaged by accidental over-discharge,or over-charge... which the NON-RESTART Batteries can't do. So anyway working on that.

But additionally we have a few MAJORLY cool new products that are coming out now... but I will go into those in a later Post.

I think Demonic gave you guys most the info needed to understand the issue with the RE-START versions , but to put it in a nutshell, our RE-START system was not playing well with the Voltage drops on the Fords System because it would make the RE-START circuitry basically think it was being over-discharged.... so it would shut itself off. Basically the RE-START Circuitry was cutting off at a higher voltage than was best for working with the Mustangs system, whereas the NON-RE-STARTs only have Cell Balancing inside and WON"T cut-off even if you drop the voltage quite low. So in essence as some have described Modern Car systems rely on the battery MUCH more to initially power the vehicles systems/accessories. For example the A/C, Stereo or whatever is turned on will draw on the Battery BEFORE turning on the Alternator to start charging and supplying some additional. So this means more of a draw on the battery, and because the Alternator is not "ON" and dragging on the motor this therefore creates less emissions, better mileage, and more power overall since the Alternator is not creating a drag. So that is where the Auto Manufacturers are going with this. And Start/Stop adds even more to that because they really want the car being as efficient as possible so again drawing on the battery and allowing it to go deeper into a state of discharge before turning on the charging system. So that's the basics.

Last, the point of the RE-START was to get a battery that could not be accidentally over-discharged, and leave the User Stranded with a dead battery.... It would also have the most safety features and therefore the User would not be able to damage the battery accidentally. Over-Discharge is the #1 reason that a Small Lithium Battery is damaged, so by protecting the battery from over-discharge the battery would be in a great position for a very long life, so a win, win for everybody. And it actually works great... but not with the Fords. So that was unfortunate because it worked in everything we were testing it in. Anyway as I explained I will go into developments on some new models in my next post.
 

Antigravity Batteries

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Well hopefully you get it worked out. I want one.

Well to expand on this a bit more.... we are making a new type of ATX20 and ATX30... but both WITHOUT the RE-START feature. Meaning they have all the protections, but we eliminated the RE-START portion. So they will have the low Voltage Cut-off, Over-charge protections, Thermal Protections, and Cell Balance, but go much deeper into the depth of discharge. That will prevent them from cutting off even if they go deeper into the depth of discharge. We are also making them with a few more Amp Hours each, and will be calling them the ATX20-HD and ATX30-HD the "HD" being Heavy Duty because they have a beefed up circuit board and more Amp Hours. They will also have in place of the RE-START button a Voltage indicator button. Everything is going well in testing, but it's maybe two more months out.

But................. we have a GAME CHANGING new Battery out in the next 2 weeks. But the sizing/fitment for the GT350 and Mustangs need to be verified for the fitment only on the Height measurement. Let me explain a little because battery sizing is often confusing. The Mustangs are using a battery called the 96R which is also known as a T5 (in Europe mostly), but the 96R/T5 is ALSO the same size as the 67R which is the spec'd battery for the GT350s. So in essence a 96R=T5=67R in regards to size fitment, they all the SAME physical size.

So we are making a OEM size known as the "H5" so it is EXACTLY the same LENGTH, and WIDTH as the 96R/T5/67R but it is 5/8th inch TALLER. So our new H5 size will fit perfectly for the Mustangs except we need to verify HEIGHT fitment for the Battery Box Cover. So my question is... "Does that 5/8ths of an inch additional HEIGHT make a difference? I see a few talking on the forum of using the XS Power D4700 Battery and that is the EXACT same Case Size as our new H5/Group47 size. And people say that works fine for them.... which would mean our H5 size works.

So if our NEW H5 will work, then we've got a seriously cool battery for you guys. And if it doesn't fit on height we will then just make a new Case size that is the 5/8 inches lower to make it work.

So below is the new battery and here is the link to read about it. We have it up on the website now for preview, the full shipment should land next week.

https://shop.antigravitybatteries.com/products/starter-batteries/automotive/ag-h5-rs/

So this new line of RE-START Batteries is NOT like the ATX20/ATX30. These are OEM fit, dedicated Automotive Batteries. So they are available in the most popular OEM Automotive Battery Sizes to fit most any Performance, or Passenger Vehicles on the Road. Additionally they have our RE-START built in Jump Starting, but it is a completely different design that won't have the issues of the ATX20/30 because we use 2 seperate circuits to control the RE-START functions, and this allows a much deeper level of dis-charge so they are compatible with START/STOP systems and modern IBS systems. So its a different animal than the ATX20/30.

One of the coolest features we added is ground breaking.... All the new RE-START Automotive Batteries have WIRELESS BUILT-IN Jump-Starting! Meaning you get a Keyfob that actuates the RE-START built-in Jump-Starting. So if your ever come back to a Dead Battery...just press the Keyfob, start your car and drive away. You don't even have to open the hood. See the pictures below.

Another Cool Feature is that we are making them in different Amp Hour Capacities. Most of these new batteries will have a 24Ah, 30Ah or 40Ah option. So you can choose what works best for your application. For example if your into the biggest weight reduction then our 24Ah in the H5/Group47 size weighs 8.5lbs.... on the other hand if you want something with alot of extra capacity you can opt for the 40Ah version which weighs 15lbs.. but is better for a Car driven in freezing weather, and where you have alot of extra accesories. We have a 30Ah model also that splits the difference but those are about another month or so later as they are still in production.

Below are some pictures...


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icormba

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Well to expand on this a bit more.... we are making a new type of ATX20 and ATX30... but both WITHOUT the RE-START feature.
HI Scott,
While you're here... do you know if anyone, from the Focus RS community, has had any issues with the RE-START Technology? I have an RS as well as the GT350, but I don't frequent the RS forums all that often and searches on the topic don't reveal all that much.

oh, if it helps... I just measured the height of the battery box from bottom to the top of the lid and it's just about 7 1/4 inches.
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