Just ordered Antigravity Lithium Battery

[Antigravity Batteries]

are you folks going to make the adapter to work with the OEM battery tray? A lot of people probably don't want to fabricate it on their own.

I have been in and out for the last 2 weeks... Holiday stuff so not a lot of time recently....there is a plan to make the mount, but I have to be thoughtful about it and how I want to do it and consider which other Cars, or vehicles it can work in so when I do something it can work for a few fitment applications.... plus want to make sure it can incorporate our other battery sizes also. So I have a few things to consider and conceptualize. I have a 3d Printer guy and that would even work just making some like that and its a simple layout.. but we might go CNC aluminum, and maybe incorporate some new strategy also.

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[Flyhalf]

Waiting for the SPECIAL MUSTANG mount..what should I order if I need the Battery...like...yesterday ?

 

[Tomster]

Waiting for the SPECIAL MUSTANG mount..what should I order if I need the Battery...like...yesterday ?

Well, then you should have ordered it a week ago, lol. Sorry couldn't help myself.

 

[Antigravity Batteries]

Waiting for the SPECIAL MUSTANG mount..what should I order if I need the Battery...like...yesterday ?

Hey Fly,

Unfortunately we are closed today and Tomorrow... Open again on Jan 2nd, 2020.

People are ordering the ATX20HD or ATX30HD, the 30 has more Amp Hours and Amp Hours are the Capacity of the battery meaning how much energy is stored in it. So more capacity gets you more storage time and can handle more accessories like Camaras or Radar detectors without draining as fast when the car is not being driven. Keep in mind and ATX20 is more for Hi-Performance or Track use though many are using them for street daily driver use also. Check with Sagittaria... he Daily Drives his ATX20HD, but not sure if during the super cold. We are just always conservative in our recommendations since we don't want people saying the battery drained fast when the ATX20 is not meant to be a direct replacement for a full sized Lead/Acid battery that much larger. So we say for mainly daily driving go ATX30HD.

As far as the mount... we have one for the ATX20, and ATX30... I will try to post pictures.. but for the drop in fit you would still have to rig something like Tomster did until we finish the mount. But we do have Something as below that could work for the ATX30, but we would have to cut the sides off (the Left and Right sides) because this is for an H6 size Battery which is the same width and footing mount as the stock 96r Mustang Battery, but it is a little longer left to right. and we could cut that down for you to work if anybody is interested, but it only works with the ATX30HD size.
.

 

[Sagittaria]

Hey Fly,
Check with Sagittaria... he Daily Drives his ATX20HD, but not sure if during the super cold. We are just always conservative in our recommendations since we don't want people saying the battery drained fast when the ATX20 is not meant to be a direct replacement for a full sized Lead/Acid battery that much larger. So we say for mainly daily driving go ATX30HD.
.

I drove mine with the ATX20HD in reasonably cold weather (~30 degrees) without any issue before I put it in for storage (before Minnesota snow hit).

It was only for a few weeks however and didn't leave the car sit for a week out in that temps and try and start it etc. But I have no concerns honestly as long as you're mindful. The GT350 starting system seems to be pretty low draw.

 

[rick shea]

I am inter

Hey Fly,

Unfortunately we are closed today and Tomorrow... Open again on Jan 2nd, 2020.

People are ordering the ATX20HD or ATX30HD, the 30 has more Amp Hours and Amp Hours are the Capacity of the battery meaning how much energy is stored in it. So more capacity gets you more storage time and can handle more accessories like Camaras or Radar detectors without draining as fast when the car is not being driven. Keep in mind and ATX20 is more for Hi-Performance or Track use though many are using them for street daily driver use also. Check with Sagittaria... he Daily Drives his ATX20HD, but not sure if during the super cold. We are just always conservative in our recommendations since we don't want people saying the battery drained fast when the ATX20 is not meant to be a direct replacement for a full sized Lead/Acid battery that much larger. So we say for mainly daily driving go ATX30HD.

As far as the mount... we have one for the ATX20, and ATX30... I will try to post pictures.. but for the drop in fit you would still have to rig something like Tomster did until we finish the mount. But we do have Something as below that could work for the ATX30, but we would have to cut the sides off (the Left and Right sides) because this is for an H6 size Battery which is the same width and footing mount as the stock 96r Mustang Battery, but it is a little longer left to right. and we could cut that down for you to work if anybody is interested, but it only works with the ATX30HD size.
.

tested in the ATX30HD and new try for my 2019GT350R

Hey Fly,

Unfortunately we are closed today and Tomorrow... Open again on Jan 2nd, 2020.

People are ordering the ATX20HD or ATX30HD, the 30 has more Amp Hours and Amp Hours are the Capacity of the battery meaning how much energy is stored in it. So more capacity gets you more storage time and can handle more accessories like Camaras or Radar detectors without draining as fast when the car is not being driven. Keep in mind and ATX20 is more for Hi-Performance or Track use though many are using them for street daily driver use also. Check with Sagittaria... he Daily Drives his ATX20HD, but not sure if during the super cold. We are just always conservative in our recommendations since we don't want people saying the battery drained fast when the ATX20 is not meant to be a direct replacement for a full sized Lead/Acid battery that much larger. So we say for mainly daily driving go ATX30HD.

As far as the mount... we have one for the ATX20, and ATX30... I will try to post pictures.. but for the drop in fit you would still have to rig something like Tomster did until we finish the mount. But we do have Something as below that could work for the ATX30, but we would have to cut the sides off (the Left and Right sides) because this is for an H6 size Battery which is the same width and footing mount as the stock 96r Mustang Battery, but it is a little longer left to right. and we could cut that down for you to work if anybody is interested, but it only works with the ATX30HD size.
.

 

[rick shea]

I am inter

tested in the ATX30HD and new try for my 2019GT350R

I am interested in the ATX 30HD and the new tray to fit my 2019 GT350R. I want to use my factory set up up the best I can and I understand the newly proposed tray and terminal set up is a simple straight forward upgrade. I am sure you will post details when its available.

 

[Antigravity Batteries]

I am interested in the ATX 30HD and the new tray to fit my 2019 GT350R. I want to use my factory set up up the best I can and I understand the newly proposed tray and terminal set up is a simple straight forward upgrade. I am sure you will post details when its available.

Sorry, looks like I missed this big time....

Anyway if you thinking the ATX30 we can rig you one of the old trays we show above by cutting off the sides and it would be a drop in fit since the Mustangs mound front to back on the stock Group 96 fitment.

 

[TopJimmyCooks]

So I've had the H5 in my car since August, no problems. I've been checking the voltage on the dash meter whenever I drive. I'd seen voltages anywhere from 11.8 >> 14.2 for the longest time. No doubt it is due to the Ford Smart Charging system. A couple weeks ago it went to 14.5. The label on the battery says not to exceed 14.4v; the manual says NTE 14.6. Last week it went to 14.6 and stayed there. Yesterday 14.7. Today it went to 14.9 for a bit, then to 14.8 for the rest of the 60-mile drive. So 2 questions:
1. Is the labelling of the voltage limits on the battery accurate? Or are they CYA? We do a lot of testing on lithium batteries at my work for data center applications and they appear to be pretty robust, outperforming lead-calcium.
2. If 14.6v is truly the ceiling, then I need to disable the Smart Charging system. From what I can gather online (and talking to a super nice guy at VIR today) all I need to do is pull the connector with three small wires from the back of the alternator? I tried tonight, is there a trick? That little $&%! would not come off.
2.5: thinking perhaps there was another way to disable it, I looked at the fuse schedule. The only thing that sounds close is a fuse labeled "voltage quality module". I googled the heck out of this, found nothing. Someone in another thread said that was regulate the power to components when the car is off, but they all have their own fuses so I'm confused by this.
The good news is that conversation with the guy at the track must have scared my car because it was behaving at 12.8v the whole way home.

 

[Flyhalf]

1 month with the battery

This is how I secure the battery. 2 bolts. Superstable

So far so good. Days without charging and battery is perfect.
First 30mins drive the Volts were going crazy. Oscillating btw 14 and 16 V. Then I think the system learned and stabilized around 14.4V like my old OEM battery

 

[Antigravity Batteries]

So I've had the H5 in my car since August, no problems. I've been checking the voltage on the dash meter whenever I drive. I'd seen voltages anywhere from 11.8 >> 14.2 for the longest time. No doubt it is due to the Ford Smart Charging system. A couple weeks ago it went to 14.5. The label on the battery says not to exceed 14.4v; the manual says NTE 14.6. Last week it went to 14.6 and stayed there. Yesterday 14.7. Today it went to 14.9 for a bit, then to 14.8 for the rest of the 60-mile drive. So 2 questions:
1. Is the labelling of the voltage limits on the battery accurate? Or are they CYA? We do a lot of testing on lithium batteries at my work for data center applications and they appear to be pretty robust, outperforming lead-calcium.
2. If 14.6v is truly the ceiling, then I need to disable the Smart Charging system. From what I can gather online (and talking to a super nice guy at VIR today) all I need to do is pull the connector with three small wires from the back of the alternator? I tried tonight, is there a trick? That little $&%! would not come off.
2.5: thinking perhaps there was another way to disable it, I looked at the fuse schedule. The only thing that sounds close is a fuse labeled "voltage quality module". I googled the heck out of this, found nothing. Someone in another thread said that was regulate the power to components when the car is off, but they all have their own fuses so I'm confused by this.
The good news is that conversation with the guy at the track must have scared my car because it was behaving at 12.8v the whole way home.

So the 14.4v is more of precautionary conservative value, usually when discussing this we'll use 15v as the top end threshold which is fine for the battery to see..not common but it will be okay seeing that. When we start seeing higher than that then there is some room for concern, mind you the protections are there to protect the battery but not as a fix for an issue like that...the one thing in your scenario I might be a little more concerned with is the value at 12.8 for a long duration as that does seem a little low...if it stays that low for a long term the battery would never get fully charged.
-Chad
[email protected]

 

[Antigravity Batteries]

Install looks great Flyhalf! Nice and clean!

 

[TopJimmyCooks]

So the 14.4v is more of precautionary conservative value, usually when discussing this we'll use 15v as the top end threshold which is fine for the battery to see..not common but it will be okay seeing that. When we start seeing higher than that then there is some room for concern, mind you the protections are there to protect the battery but not as a fix for an issue like that...the one thing in your scenario I might be a little more concerned with is the value at 12.8 for a long duration as that does seem a little low...if it stays that low for a long term the battery would never get fully charged.
-Chad
[email protected]

Thanks Chad. I appreciate the info!

 

[TopJimmyCooks]

So the 14.4v is more of precautionary conservative value, usually when discussing this we'll use 15v as the top end threshold which is fine for the battery to see..not common but it will be okay seeing that. When we start seeing higher than that then there is some room for concern, mind you the protections are there to protect the battery but not as a fix for an issue like that...the one thing in your scenario I might be a little more concerned with is the value at 12.8 for a long duration as that does seem a little low...if it stays that low for a long term the battery would never get fully charged.
-Chad
[email protected]

Btw...it is usually between 13.2 and 14.2. Ford charging is like a box of chocolates.

 

[Flyhalf]

Install looks great Flyhalf! Nice and clean!

Thanks Chad
Alessandro

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