JBL door speakers

[cactus_kid]

Is there no audio shop you can ask ?

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[Caballus]

Is there no audio shop you can ask ?

Not many in this neck of the woods are familiar with GT350s, since they are not exportable. I plan to give Crutchfield a call.

 

[GTthree50]

Don't disagree at all. The question I am stuck with is whether the B&O amp will drive the 6522ix's. If so, it's simply a plug and play swap, as you noted.

This is something I’ve wondered about. Looking at the impedance of virtually any aftermarket speakers they are less efficient and consequently need more power to work over the full range of output. Not feeding them adequate power can lead to a overheated speaker. What I’m unable to find out is what the output of the factory amp is to determine if going all in with amp/amps/dsp, etc is necessary. I have not done it yet and simply limit how loud I turn up the volume but that is still a stop gap.

 

[Caballus]

This is something I’ve wondered about. Looking at the impedance of virtually any aftermarket speakers they are less efficient and consequently need more power to work over the full range of output. Not feeding them adequate power can lead to a overheated speaker. What I’m unable to find out is what the output of the factory amp is to determine if going all in with amp/amps/dsp, etc is necessary. I have not done it yet and simply limit how loud I turn up the volume but that is still a stop gap.

Agree. Don't want to blindly pop in different speakers.

The configuration I was going to use for the 2016 (noted above) would have definitely worked for that system. No original thought from me. Several members used the solution and liked it.

Couple references to it here: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/has-anyone-done-a-speaker-upgrade-in-their-gt350.147290/

I believe MY17 had the same OEM system, but I'm not sure.

 

[DrumReaper]

So... no one’s messing with the dash speaker?.. or is that a dumb question?

Also, if you guys were to replace the factory amps and utilize a DSP, does that frustrate the SYNC system?

I apologize if these are dumb questions, but I seem to remember an issue with that center speaker and SYNC.

 

[StangTime]

So... no one’s messing with the dash speaker?.. or is that a dumb question?

Also, if you guys were to replace the factory amps and utilize a DSP, does that frustrate the SYNC system?

I apologize if these are dumb questions, but I seem to remember an issue with that center speaker and SYNC.

Unplugged the dash speaker. I pulled out my factory amp and have the chimes/warning tones played through the instrument panel speaker. That's the only deviation from OEM functionality.
No issues with Sync at all.

 

[GTthree50]

So... no one’s messing with the dash speaker?.. or is that a dumb question?

Also, if you guys were to replace the factory amps and utilize a DSP, does that frustrate the SYNC system?

I apologize if these are dumb questions, but I seem to remember an issue with that center speaker and SYNC.

Not a dumb quest at all. I clipped the wire to the center speaker and wired it to a switch but truthfully never ever turn it on. It ruins the sound and stereo separation.

Unplugged the dash speaker. I pulled out my factory amp and have the chimes/warning tones played through the instrument panel speaker. That's the only deviation from OEM functionality.
No issues with Sync at all.

Which factory system did you have? Mine is a Shaker 9 speaker and I have Sync 3 with the larger screen. I was led to believe that the factory amp performed functions within the system beyond powering the speakers that make its removal impossible without restoring those functions via something like a DSR1. How did you do it?

 

[StangTime]

Which factory system did you have? Mine is a Shaker 9 speaker and I have Sync 3 with the larger screen. I was led to believe that the factory amp performed functions within the system beyond powering the speakers that make its removal impossible without restoring those functions via something like a DSR1. How did you do it?

I have the 9 speaker system with the 8" Sync screen. The factory amp does nothing special except direct tones to the front or rear of the car depending on where the alert is. For example, my backup sensors used to play a beep through the rear speakers, now it plays through the gauge cluster. If you have safe n smart I would guess those tones come from the front speakers.

Try this as an experiment: Reach up under the dash, just above the drivers kick panel. Unplug the brown connector on the amp. This shuts down the factory amp. Drive your car, see how the warning tones behave. They will come from the instrument panel.

The DSR1 retains the factory tone functions played through the stereo speakers. That's the only difference and only reason to use a DSR1. If you are ok with the beeps and tones coming from the instrument panel then use any DSP you want.

 

[cactus_kid]

Unplugged the dash speaker. I pulled out my factory amp and have the chimes/warning tones played through the instrument panel speaker. That's the only deviation from OEM functionality.
No issues with Sync at all.

I've unplugged the center speaker. Is the IPS the small grill opening to the right of the steering column ?

 

[cactus_kid]

The plot thickens ..................

 

[StangTime]

I've unplugged the center speaker. Is the IPS the small grill opening to the right of the steering column ?

It could be. I think that's where the cabin air temperature sensor is located. It's hard to pinpoint where the sounds come from but it's behind the steering wheel somewhere.

 

[cactus_kid]

It could be. I think that's where the cabin air temperature sensor is located. It's hard to pinpoint where the sounds come from but it's behind the steering wheel somewhere.

Well, that rules out "Nanna Grumpy" She can't drive a stick .................

 

[GTthree50]

I have the 9 speaker system with the 8" Sync screen. The factory amp does nothing special except direct tones to the front or rear of the car depending on where the alert is. For example, my backup sensors used to play a beep through the rear speakers, now it plays through the gauge cluster. If you have safe n smart I would guess those tones come from the front speakers.

Try this as an experiment: Reach up under the dash, just above the drivers kick panel. Unplug the brown connector on the amp. This shuts down the factory amp. Drive your car, see how the warning tones behave. They will come from the instrument panel.

The DSR1 retains the factory tone functions played through the stereo speakers. That's the only difference and only reason to use a DSR1. If you are ok with the beeps and tones coming from the instrument panel then use any DSP you want.

That’s fantastic. Thanks

 

[cactus_kid]

I have the 9 speaker system with the 8" Sync screen. The factory amp does nothing special except direct tones to the front or rear of the car depending on where the alert is. For example, my backup sensors used to play a beep through the rear speakers, now it plays through the gauge cluster. If you have safe n smart I would guess those tones come from the front speakers.

Try this as an experiment: Reach up under the dash, just above the drivers kick panel. Unplug the brown connector on the amp. This shuts down the factory amp. Drive your car, see how the warning tones behave. They will come from the instrument panel.

The DSR1 retains the factory tone functions played through the stereo speakers. That's the only difference and only reason to use a DSR1. If you are ok with the beeps and tones coming from the instrument panel then use any DSP you want.

This will be done this week at the dealer. I can see it. However, with my bad back, trying to twist such that I can unplug it is an issue.

 

[Caballus]

This will be done this week at the dealer. I can see it. However, with my bad back, trying to twist such that I can unplug it is an issue.

What all did you decide to have done? Speakers only or amp and DSR1 as well?

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