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1 old racer

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One of many just Google mustang jacking rails and many will pop up.
Screenshot_20210731-180150_Chrome.jpg
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ice445

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You can jack on the pinch weld and put a stand there too, the whole thing is reinforced. I just jack where the arrow is and put the stand slightly in front of that. IMO the cut out is more for not damaging the plastic side sill than it is for identifying a safe point. The second cut out in the plastic is where I put the stand.
 

Flimflamman

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I made my own puck a long time ago from a piece of 2x4. Cut a puck groove in it (against the grain) and its held up for years. Cheapo depot.

But the rails are a very convenient alternative I plan on taking advantage of soon.
 

3rdRGR

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I'm probably going to invest in some Steeda rails for when I do my tire changes. That way I can do one lift in the middle of the car bringing up the whole side. I like to take most of the weight off the tire, but have just enough traction left to loosen the lug nuts, then lift it off the ground to pull the tires. I do the same thing when I'm torqueing them back to spec. But to do this process now I'm having to do one corner at a time. Jacking rails would make this process much easier.

For oil changes, I've got drive up ramps but I'm not using them because the front is too low to drive up. But for safety, next time I'd like to just place the ramps under the front tires, then lower it onto them at the same time. So can you get under the frame right in front of the oil pan and jack there so the whole front will come up evenly? In the diagram it shows where to place the jack stands under the frame (which is not on center, and closer to the corners), but I'm wondering if you can jack at either the piece of the frame that is directly in front of the oil pan, or the second piece that goes across the middle that is a couple inches closer to the front of the car. Neither look as sturdy as the frame itself, so that's why I'm asking. Hope I'm explaining this adequately.
 

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3rdRGR

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Ok, I'll see if anyone else chimes in on this one. Seems like ramps would give me more room to operate underneath. I'm doing as you do now except was putting jack stands at the pinch weld corners. I could probably put one ramp under at a time, but would prefer to do it in one shot if I can without bending either of those frame pieces that run in front of the oil pan.
 

1 old racer

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Here are a couple of pics of my full length modular drive up ramps I built. I just remove the center sections and I have all kinds of room to change the oil as well as other things without needing to lif my car at all. And back when I built them two years ago I did it for about 150 bucks.
20201219_144551.jpg
20201219_182319.jpg
 

ice445

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I made my own puck a long time ago from a piece of 2x4. Cut a puck groove in it (against the grain) and its held up for years. Cheapo depot.

But the rails are a very convenient alternative I plan on taking advantage of soon.
I use a competition hockey puck. Works great.
 

ORRadtech

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Ok, I'll see if anyone else chimes in on this one. Seems like ramps would give me more room to operate underneath. I'm doing as you do now except was putting jack stands at the pinch weld corners. I could probably put one ramp under at a time, but would prefer to do it in one shot if I can without bending either of those frame pieces that run in front of the oil pan.

I use ramps to change the oil and for anything else that's relatively quick under the front. My ramps are nothing special, just some my son got me as a gift. I think they came from Walmart. The splitter is very close but does clear. It's a stock height Ecoboost so a GT or a lowered car probably would hit. Still, I'd think a block of 2x lumber in front of the tire would give enough clearance for the ramps.
I find ramps quicker and easier than dragging out the jack and stands for an oil change. For tire rotation or when you need more room it's hard to beat jacking rails.
 

3rdRGR

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I use ramps to change the oil and for anything else that's relatively quick under the front. My ramps are nothing special, just some my son got me as a gift. I think they came from Walmart. The splitter is very close but does clear. It's a stock height Ecoboost so a GT or a lowered car probably would hit. Still, I'd think a block of 2x lumber in front of the tire would give enough clearance for the ramps.
I find ramps quicker and easier than dragging out the jack and stands for an oil change. For tire rotation or when you need more room it's hard to beat jacking rails.
I may have to give that a try. I'm lowered with a splitter and my ramps have a pretty aggressive angle, but worth a look. Thanks.
 

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DemonGT

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Anyone using jack stand covers to prevent scratching?
 

Jimmy

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You did have it backwards. So what? Did that upset you? The word "backwards"? Snort! Wow!

Then you got butt-hurt that I commented about some other guy's jack stands?

The huff-and puff, smart-assery showed up after you couldn't grasp a simple construct and kept asking the same thing over and over. Come to find you were just offended or some such. Whatevs.

Frankly, maybe if you had a friend or something that can show you what to do it would be more clear. I think you might be scared to jack the car up.
Why are you getting annoyed at the guy for simply trying to clarify things? Do we not want people to have the clearest information?
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