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Is this normal? does it suppose to move or stay solid?

andy21996

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My 2022 Mach 1 is getting clunking noise when decelerating and braking. I am suspecting its cause of this but I am not sure. Not sure if its suppose to be moving like this or stay solid.

Thanks in advance

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HeelToeHero

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Normal when the wheel is off. Once you torque the wheel down you shouldn't have that movement.
 

ZXMustang

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The brake rotor is NOT your clunking noise.
Yeah it’s probably the brake pads in the bracket. They move a bit if there is excessive clearance with the ears of the pads in the bracket.
 

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kz

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Of course it's supposed to be moving. If it was perfect fit with no movement allowed, you would never install a brake rotor on the hub. This is not causing then noise like others said above.
 

ORRadtech

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Yeah it’s probably the brake pads in the bracket. They move a bit if there is excessive clearance with the ears of the pads in the bracket.
It could really be so many things. I wouldn't really suspect the pads. I might suspect the caliper or its bracket, something in the suspension or drive train. Maybe even motor or transmission mounts.
He doesn't really give us much to go on.
In any case it's a '22 so let the dealer diagnose it.
 

luca1290

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Reinstall the wheel and be sure to clean the mating sources well beforehand.
Tighten the bolts more or less halfway to the torque spec, then lower the car that much so the well contact the ground but you are not putting too much weight of the car onto it (this is not to have the tire rotate, else have someone press hard on the brake).
Then torque the bolts to specification in a cross pattern, then lower the car and recheck the torque.

Put the car again in the air, ideally all of the front axle, then try to vigorously shake the wheel, if it moves you have a bad wheel bearing, if it stays put and doesn't move then it's something else.
As said it can be the brake pads but if you have a little experience you should be able to distinguish it by hear.
 

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luca1290

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Not trying to cast shade but the initial question would seem to indicate zero experience...
I'm with you, if it's for that also the too long fingernails and soft hands in the video.

But everybody deserve a fair chance to start doing something new and hopefully with the guidance of some people that take time to teach how do thing, and not getting killed in the process when messing up with very important things they don't know...
That's why I took my time to write in an as much detailed possible way how to safely reattach the wheel and how to perform a proper(-ish) diagnosis.
 

SheepDog

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Yeah it’s probably the brake pads in the bracket. They move a bit if there is excessive clearance with the ears of the pads in the bracket.
There is no bracket on the Brembo fronts. Or shims. The pads make direct contact with the caliper.

clunking noise when decelerating and braking
Are those the OEM brake pads? Are you sure the wheels were torqued to proper spec?
 

shogun32

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Any click noise you can hear from inside the cabin while decelerating is not something small like rotor ring shift or pad slop. It's more likely to be bad tie rod bearings, or loose lateral link, loose damper upper mount - is this an hp with dealer installed camber plates? Or bound or broken swaybar endlink
 

Vertex

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I have had a weird clunk or thunk noise on my car for quite some time but I believe it is transmission related. It only sometimes happens and it not consistent and happens on a downshift. It can happen when coasting or braking but only ever does it one time on each deceleration. I also have another trans issue that I'm going to need to get back in again for the 3rd time. Not sure where the repair is going to go cause I've had harsh shifts or slips on the 4-5 upshifts as well. I know that's a different issue on the second note I made but just wanted to toss my 2¢
 

shogun32

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It only sometimes happens and it not consistent and happens on a downshift. It can happen when coasting or braking but only ever does it one time on each deceleration.
Differential mounting. Rip and replace the bolts, shim the hole and install the Whiteline puck-style isolators.
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