Is Performance Package worth it?

[shogun32]

How about this, is the PP worth it if I love driving (not racing) on the freeway for fun? Say, going through the scenic 101 in Cali from Santa Barbara to LA or vice versa?

'No', on this and 'No' to the OP.

However, take ~half the money you saved and do your own PP-like retrofit.
Get some of the BMR/Steeda alighnment+bracing goodies ($3-500).
Get Ford's "Street" suspension upgrade package ($1000). I don't like "lowered" cars so would instead substitute BMR's minimum drop springs (no different really from GT+PP OE springs). Or much better yet grab a set of GT+PP1 shocks and springs from a forum member for next to nothing. They are likely to be basically new, anyway.

The front brakes are definitely worth upgrading - though I have yet to find a properly-vented 14" front rotor that isn't aftermarket and doesn't cost $700+; does the 11-14 GT500 have the correct pad sweep? I would pass on sway-bars. If you don't mind having to spring for a pair of 19" wheels, get the 15" rotors and 6-pots. ($1200+cost of wheels+tires). I kinda like mismatched rims myself...

You could have 80+% of the useful benefits of the PP package for a fraction of the cost.

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[Maggneto]

Brembo's are the PP1 brakes and they stop way faster !! They are on my Build.

The Brembos stop the GT/PP in a shorter distance than the EB/PP but not by much in a single test. Here are the test results of both PP packages in 2015. The EB/PP from 70-0 in 150 vs the GT/PP in 149. Impressive considering the weight difference between the GT and EB.

https://www.caranddriver.com/news/a...mustang-gt-versus-2015-ford-mustang-ecoboost/

 

[shogun32]

go rent a convertible Mustang like I did for a day or two

Make it a week to really get a feel for it. I was going to buy a Camaro SS after renting it for a week but then thought better of the price point and the overall "experience".

 

[dr.dirty]

I DD a 17 EB PP 200 miles a day for 21 one days straight each month. So its safe to say i spend alot of time in my car. I drive from Hesperia to Ft Irwin everyday and I have zero regrets on getting the PP. My mother in law has a 17 EB base so i borrowed it for a week and drove it to work and back before making my choice to go with the PP. The PP feels more responsive and planted to the ground how ever it does ride a bit rougher on our fine SOCAL freeways. On the 15 freeway we get some pretty good crosswinds and in the Base I had more of a feeling being pushed around than I do in my car. I agree with everyone here telling you to drive both. Either way they are both great platforms.

 

[rollininmyfivepointoh]

Had my non-PP A10 conv for almost a week now and it's better than I thought it would be. This car is so fun and the ride is a perfect balance of performance and comfort. My advice would be to go convertible and skip the PP.

 

[shogun32]

My advice would be to go convertible and skip the PP.

not to mention in non-California/AZ/FL markets dealers can't give them away.

 

[canyon ed]

Had my non-PP A10 conv for almost a week now and it's better than I thought it would be. This car is so fun and the ride is a perfect balance of performance and comfort. My advice would be to go convertible and skip the PP.

I think the PP1 items on a 17 GT AUTO Convertible were meant to be.

 

[nrc]

The Brembos stop the GT/PP in a shorter distance than the EB/PP but not by much in a single test. Here are the test results of both PP packages in 2015. The EB/PP from 70-0 in 150 vs the GT/PP in 149. Impressive considering the weight difference between the GT and EB.

https://www.caranddriver.com/news/a...mustang-gt-versus-2015-ford-mustang-ecoboost/

Same comparison on the '18 model and the EB PP stops slightly shorter than the GT PP, although they both fail to match those earlier numbers.

https://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/a24847025/2018-ford-mustang-automatic-transmission-performance/

More to the point that EB PP number is 11 feet shorter than their earlier test of a base EB.

https://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/a19862434/2018-ford-mustang-23l-ecoboost-manual-test-review/

A larger radius rotor can produce more braking torque. A larger, sticker tire can produce more braking force. That's born out in the test results.

My own experience in test driving was that the PP brakes felt better in both stopping force and modulation. As I said, it really should come down to a test drive. Nail some brakes and decide for yourself.

 

[sebrhos]

Thanks for all your replies and advice guys, I appreciate it.

A poll is up, I’m curious to see the results! Go and vote!

 

[FreedomPenguin]

One thing you have to realize, you are on a forum, with mustang enthusiast. The majority of people come to this site to “mod, and show off” the cars. Many of them never being happy and wanting power and racing stuff.

Would be a shocker to find the members settling for anything less performance anything.

Just like majority of people on Facebook groups or forums all hating on 4 cylinder “anything less than 8 cylinders is wrong” lol Ive has people put the throw up face when I posted I bought a ecoboost, just enthusiast.

 

[Rock&Roll]

Thanks for all your replies and advice guys, I appreciate it.

A poll is up, I’m curious to see the results! Go and vote!

This forum has lots of Mustang enthusiasts that live and breathe Mustangs and will strongly favor the PP so don’t base your results on a poll here.

Driving my Premium non PP yesterday in a spirited run in the mountains I was thinking of this thread for some reason and ... my car handles and stops great. I’m sure it would handle and stop better with PP but I’m fine the way it is. I’d say if you can afford it, get it. To me I really wanted the Premium package with NAV and the Shaker Sound System for my Daily Driver. That brought me up to $40k. That was/is a ton of money for me. Didn’t think I was gonna be able to swing it but I did. If there was a identical car to mine on the lot but had in addition the PP, I wouldn’t have bought it. I forget how much PP was at the time maybe $2500. Money is tight and I hate black wheels anyway. Only you can decide. Drive both.

Good luck

 

[shogun32]

This forum has lots of Mustang enthusiasts that live and breathe Mustangs and will strongly favor the PP

Indeed. My previous posts not-withstanding, you can always mod your car with selective Premium or PP features for pennies on the dollar when and as money and interest permit as opposed to paying out the nose for the privilege of the factory doing it for you. I voted convertible because if you're not taking it to the track (where hardtop is mandatory, or rollcage) it's really fun to have any car's top down. Why A/C when nature can do it's thing?

The only option I would strongly suggest every EB and especially 10AT buyer get regardless of motor size is the 101A (or it's equiv) to get the drive modes. The personalities are very noticeable and welcome.

The PP stuff (6-pot and suspension) are significantly overpriced for what they are when rolled up into the sticker. If you really are into "performance" you'll be junking at least the suspension for the REAL stuff sooner rather than later. The car has cooling problems even in PP trim so for those going HPDE/Autocross you'll be stumping for better solutions there too. Why throw good money at Ford just to throw it down the drain?

I sure wish I had gone with a base+ride-mode car and then bought up-rated parts as I learned more.

 

[BmacIL]

Indeed. My previous posts not-withstanding, you can always mod your car with selective Premium or PP features for pennies on the dollar when and as money and interest permit as opposed to paying out the nose for the privilege of the factory doing it for you. I voted convertible because if you're not taking it to the track (where hardtop is mandatory, or rollcage) it's really fun to have any car's top down. Why A/C when nature can do it's thing?

The only option I would strongly suggest every EB and especially 10AT buyer get regardless of motor size is the 101A (or it's equiv) to get the drive modes. The personalities are very noticeable and welcome.

The PP stuff (6-pot and suspension) are significantly overpriced for what they are when rolled up into the sticker. If you really are into "performance" you'll be junking at least the suspension for the REAL stuff sooner rather than later. The car has cooling problems even in PP trim so for those going HPDE/Autocross you'll be stumping for better solutions there too. Why throw good money at Ford just to throw it down the drain?

I sure wish I had gone with a base+ride-mode car and then bought up-rated parts as I learned more.

The GT PP is worth it. Brembos, torsen and radiator by itself are, and you get a lot more than that even if you replace the springs and dampers. I don't think the PP for the EB is. You still get brakes that won't hold up to track use and no torsen diff. This new Handling package for the EB, however, looks very good, but will depend on the price.

 

[shogun32]

The GT PP is worth it. Brembos, torsen and radiator by itself

The Brembo setup is $1200 after the fact + two 19" wheels and tires (say $600) A 18 SHELBY GT350 Perf pack radiator is a mere $425 on ebay and the Mishimoto equiv for the EB or GT is $500ish from CJ. I can't speak to how valuable the Torsen is on anything short of taking the car to the track constantly (6+ events a year) but it can't be worth that much...

Sway bars (500/pair), springs (250) and really good shocks (750+) and we're up to 3800 + labor. This last trifecta can be had in kit form from Ford no less for $1300-1500 which is less than itemized. Not to mention you can pick which items and what level you want to buy into. If you want BMR or Steeda parts, at least you don't have to throw away the extra-cost Ford items.

Boost and Oil Pressure gauges in the dash have little redeeming value when a Phone app (eg. Torque) can display it trivially from ODB info.

Even on the GT the kit should be a $2500 option. That more than covers the cost differential between base and the kit parts with a fat profit margin to boot. The EB version has no business being crippled with sub-standard brakes and cooling.

 

[BmacIL]

Even on the GT the kit should be a $2500 option.

It was exactly that much in 2015.

Also includes...
PP splitter and belly pan
Upper and lower K braces & strut tower brace
Lateral front arms with bearings instead of bushings
Unique ABS calibration
Unique EPAS calibration

The torsen is a much better differential for putting power down and for longevity than the clutch pack, and the 3.73 gears it is paired with gives the car better gearing for most track use. At $2500-3000 it is a no brainer. At today's $4000? Less so for sure, but there's a lot to be said for OEM integration of all that, even if you simply change springs and dampers.

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