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Installing LT headers tips

NGOT8R

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Which LTH had fitment issues?
My first set of Ultimate Headers had some clearance issues with the steering linkage and the passenger side floorboard. I took detailed pics and measurements of the problem areas and they built me another set which fit perfectly.
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2M are known to have issues. And I've seen a few people with the stainless powers having to dimple tubes occasionally. But other than that haven't seen too many brands with issues.
What's the difference between stainless powers and stainless works? Stainless works is recommended for my mbrp exhaust and that's what I was looking at. More research to do, but that's what I love about this site and the platform being out for a few years. Tons of info on here and it's all be done before.
 

Mr Hyde

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What's the difference between stainless powers and stainless works? Stainless works is recommended for my mbrp exhaust and that's what I was looking at. More research to do, but that's what I love about this site and the platform being out for a few years. Tons of info on here and it's all be done before.
stainless works is a totally different company, headers are made in the usa.
 

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stainless works is a totally different company, headers are made in the usa.
It’s my understanding that it’s the same company, same design, but the Stainless Powers are produced over seas and the Stainless Works are made in the US to a higher quality. They should fit the same, with the difference being the quality of material and welds.
 

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Headers are headers for the most part, difference is the finish, which depending on you life might not even be necessary (e.g. Stainless Steel is nice, but chances of rust in the Southwest are zilch). As with any part, somebody is going to have shit luck, but they're all generally things that can be fixed with a little grinding or sanding. If you want to pay double, and pay even more to have somebody install it for you, that's certainly your prerogative. That 3rd party internet rumor game is just straight up dumb... unless I start up a header company, where yeah, they all suck and mine's the best.
 

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331GT

331GT

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The passenger side is the biggest pain in the ass I've ever had to endure, took me 8-10 hours on that with the AC lines in the way. Problem there is that from the top of the engine bay, you can only get to maybe 2 or 3 of them because the AC line runs right along it, and the bottom is where you have to do all the rest, and my ratchet only got like 1 or 2 clicks per, so that's what, 12-15 degrees? Plenty of turning and time to reconsider what you're doing with your life.

As you try to get more space, you will need to remove the motor mount from the side, as well as the starter, and either lift from the bottom to push the engine up to help clear those AC lines. You might be just as good with a cherry picker and pulling up just the same, perhaps even better since you'll not have to finagle around the jack stand being right next to you. Good news is that the driver side is super easy, I musta done that in like 45 minutes.

If you can afford it, remove the A/C line, but you'll have to get some fancy HVAC person to help there as it's R1234-yf, some super expensive gas if they're not holding it for you. With those lines out of the way, it'd be a breeze, and I wonder if shops are probably doing that to save plenty of their own labor hour charges.
yea, so this was spot on. not quite finished, have to get it done later today after work. my friend has zero experience, and this is the first decent sized job for me on an S550. should have had him take it to a shop lol. that passenger side is a pain. took awhile to find and get to the final motor mount bolt, and those header nuts on the studs are very hard to get to. i see what you mean about getting 1 or 2 clicks. to add insult, my friend put two nuts on the header studs that did not belong. easy enough mistake, ive done that kind of thing myself. but one on drivers side, one on passenger. and then with the header snugged up to the head, there was no longer room to get the nut off without removing ALL the other bolts to move the header away from the head a bit. so i was thrilled at that.

today, have to snug up all the motor mount bolts/studs, put the starter back, and connect the header/O2's. fvck this lol. not sure if this makes me want to get headers for mine and do it, or say hell no, i dont need the extra 30 hp lol. and working around the jack holding the engine up was definitely a pain in the ass as well.

someone mentioned removing the battery tray- if i do this again in the future, i will probably do that next time.
 

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yea, so this was spot on. not quite finished, have to get it done later today after work. my friend has zero experience, and this is the first decent sized job for me on an S550. should have had him take it to a shop lol. that passenger side is a pain. took awhile to find and get to the final motor mount bolt, and those header nuts on the studs are very hard to get to. i see what you mean about getting 1 or 2 clicks. to add insult, my friend put two nuts on the header studs that did not belong. easy enough mistake, ive done that kind of thing myself. but one on drivers side, one on passenger. and then with the header snugged up to the head, there was no longer room to get the nut off without removing ALL the other bolts to move the header away from the head a bit. so i was thrilled at that.

today, have to snug up all the motor mount bolts/studs, put the starter back, and connect the header/O2's. fvck this lol. not sure if this makes me want to get headers for mine and do it, or say hell no, i dont need the extra 30 hp lol. and working around the jack holding the engine up was definitely a pain in the ass as well.

someone mentioned removing the battery tray- if i do this again in the future, i will probably do that next time.
Sounds like you guys are about finished with the install. FWIW, I had my battery tray out of the car during my install, but it wasn’t necessary, as I didn’t even try and access any of the studs (during removal) or bolts during installation. I think leaving any of the factory studs in place creates more difficulty. I didn’t retain any of them and used all supplied new bolts during my installation.
 

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Surprisingly I was able to actually use power tools, extensions and swivels on most of the passenger side nuts and remove them. Going on with the new ones I think I had to remove two studs on the passenger side and only had to hand tighten one or two nuts. The driver side I was able to remove most of the nuts using power but going on they all had to be hand tightened due to the larger primary tube size. Still if I ever go.back to stock or have to do it again I will pay the $600 to a local shop to have them done.
 
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Sounds like you guys are about finished with the install. FWIW, I had my battery tray out of the car during my install, but it wasn’t necessary, as I didn’t even try and access any of the studs (during removal) or bolts during installation. I think leaving any of the factory studs in place creates more difficulty. I didn’t retain any of them and used all supplied new bolts during my installation.
i think removing the battery tray would have helped, we could have used a little more space while lifting the engine, but you're correct, it wasnt necessary. he purchased the headers used from facebook marketplace and did not have new hardware, so we reused his. one thing that did work in our favor was that his car is a 2021 with about 5k miles-he bought it in may of this year. everything was very clean. i did exhaust on my SN when it was already 9 or 10 years old and already had 100k on it, and much of the exhaust hardware was corroded, rusted, broken studs, etc. much bigger pain from that aspect.

i did refer to your thread too, from your Bullitt install. some of it i forgot by the time i got out and under the car, but it was good advice and my own mistake for forgetting it. everything is so much easier to picture and understand AFTER you've already been inside and seen how everything goes, and after you've wrestled with it. but great post and tips, much appreciated!
 
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331GT

331GT

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Surprisingly I was able to actually use power tools, extensions and swivels on most of the passenger side nuts and remove them. Going on with the new ones I think I had to remove two studs on the passenger side and only had to hand tighten one or two nuts. The driver side I was able to remove most of the nuts using power but going on they all had to be hand tightened due to the larger primary tube size. Still if I ever go.back to stock or have to do it again I will pay the $600 to a local shop to have them done.
i got out the compressor and air tools but ended up not using them, i felt like i was spending more time wrestling around with how to get at stuff than i would just doing it by hand. but more power to ya! and i hear you with going back in to return to stock.
 

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NGOT8R

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@331GT, what matters in the end is you kicked the install in the arse and got it done. What is the rest of your friend’s exhaust combo going to be (mid pipe and axle back)? Is he tuning for E85 and will you please post a video of how it sounds once you guys get everything wrapped up?
 
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331GT

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@331GT, what matters in the end is you kicked the install in the arse and got it done. What is the rest of your friend’s exhaust combo going to be (mid pipe and axle back)? Is he tuning for E85 and will you please post a video of how it sounds once you guys get everything wrapped up?
oh, i know. this isnt my first rodeo, im sh1t deep in an engine build on another mustang, ha. what i thought was just a head gasket turned into a bent rod, which took out my stock block. now im building a DART block with a vortech ha! im not not as familiar with this platform, but all that takes is time and work.

he has a ford performance x pipe and stock active exhaust after the x pipe. i will try to get a video and post it here. he has an SCT/Bama tuner installed i saw, but he's still on the stock ford tune for now. he plans on running e85 once tuned. i think he wanted to get the LTs in first and then have the tuning done. hopefully we'll wrap it up tonight and ill post up a video.
 
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331GT

331GT

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@331GT, what matters in the end is you kicked the install in the arse and got it done. What is the rest of your friend’s exhaust combo going to be (mid pipe and axle back)? Is he tuning for E85 and will you please post a video of how it sounds once you guys get everything wrapped up?
when you first started the car after installing the headers, did you have any rough start up or rough idling at all for the first minute or two? or was it a fairly normal/drama free start?
 

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when you first started the car after installing the headers, did you have any rough start up or rough idling at all for the first minute or two? or was it a fairly normal/drama free start?
Drama free first start up for me with no idling issues. I already had my LTH tune loaded beforehand though.
 
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331GT

331GT

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Drama free first start up for me with no idling issues. I already had my LTH tune loaded beforehand though.
gotcha. well i guess we'll find out later today (hopefully!!)
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