Installed: 10mm spacers and longer wheel studs

[Mattwood440]

yes!

+1. You need at least 8 threads for proper torque on an M14 bolt. I counted approximately 10 turns with the spacers and longer studs = perfect

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[Norm Peterson]

The real question is, do we need extended lugs for 10mm spacers?

I wouldn't run spacers any thicker than 1 mm on OE studs.


Norm

 

[cbass]

+1. You need at least 8 threads for proper torque on an M14 bolt. I counted approximately 10 turns with the spacers and longer studs = perfect

I have open end lugs for the new wheels. I'll bring my internal calipers to see how much threading I get going on for the next test fit.

I wouldn't run spacers any thicker than 1 mm on OE studs.


Norm

Norm, I normally wouldn't run spacers at all, but the S197 wheels are too big to sell to most normal people, and I don't want to dick around shipping them. I'll buy something more normal sized over the winter, I think.

 

[scott_0]

I wouldn't run spacers any thicker than 1 mm on OE studs.


Norm

haha so none at all?

 

[Norm Peterson]

"Close, but no guitar" if you get the Philly morning show reference.

I needed to make up some spacers in 0.025" thickness (about 0.6mm) to eliminate a very tiny rub on the right front of the car the way it sits in my sig. Didn't have much left against a one bolt diameter minimum thread engagement.


Norm

 

[cbass]

So I ordered these studs from autozone this morning. Whoops.

It's like $21 shipped, so no big deal. I wonder if using my plastic HCR set will help, as the original pictures look like the hub was sticking out just a hair. Worst case, I can order a set of the rings in random internal sizes and check them out.

Lug nuts are already here, maybe the stud will get here around the same time as my spacers.

 

[Need4SpeedMotors]

factory studs can take up to 5 mm spacers while still getting the safest amount of turns, after that you need either extended studs and above 12 mm is a adapter.

 

[MtnBiker]

I'm sure this install is fine. Options are good and the front hub is pretty easy to take off. I rent space in a shop when needed and they have a hydraulic press. I'll be using that for removal/install when I get some time. I'm going to use the Harbor Freight Ball Joint Separator to remove/install the rear studs. If that doesn't work I'll take that hub off too and use the press.

 

[Need4SpeedMotors]

I'm sure this install is fine. Options are good and the front hub is pretty easy to take off. I rent space in a shop when needed and they have a hydraulic press. I'll be using that for removal/install when I get some time. I'm going to use the Harbor Freight Ball Joint Separator to remove/install the rear studs. If that doesn't work I'll take that hub off too and use the press.

Sounds like your good man !

 

[MtnBiker]

factory studs can take up to 5 mm spacers while still getting the safest amount of turns, after that you need either extended studs and above 12 mm is a adapter.

I'd be a little judicious about specifying a "safe" spacer thickness and focus on turns. Aftermarket rims and tuner lugs can leave you with less stud engagement. Optimally you'd have 1.5x stud diameter of threads engaged by the lug nut. I had 10.5 turns on my rims which might sound like a lot but is only .62" of engagement. That's not a lot at 148 lb/ft of torque. The ideal 1.5x would be .83" of engagement ... and that is before spacers. A 5mm spacer would take out about 30% of my already minimal thread engagement. My $.02

 

[Mattwood440]

factory studs can take up to 5 mm spacers while still getting the safest amount of turns, after that you need either extended studs and above 12 mm is a adapter.

What sucks is I couldn't find any 15mm bolt on adapters. I can't remember if I found one with a 70.3 center bore, but I found NONE with M14 studs. So that would mean 10 new studs, AND 10 new shorty lugs, and more labor. Maybe someone should look into manufacturing some <hint, hint>

 

[MtnBiker]

What sucks is I couldn't find any 15mm bolt on adapters. I can't remember if I found one with a 70.3 center bore, but I found NONE with M14 studs. So that would mean 10 new studs, AND 10 new shorty lugs, and more labor. Maybe someone should look into manufacturing some <hint, hint>

As long as you are replacing studs why would you go with an adaptor vs a much stronger/safer spacer?

 

[Mattwood440]

As long as you are replacing studs why would you go with an adaptor vs a much stronger/safer spacer?

Ease. The 1" adapters I put on the back were slick (no stud replacement necessary). I don't have any concern about their strength/safety. I know truck enthusiasts who use those bolt on adapters for some massive wheels and off roading.

 

[Mattwood440]

I'd be a little judicious about specifying a "safe" spacer thickness and focus on turns. Aftermarket rims and tuner lugs can leave you with less stud engagement. Optimally you'd have 1.5x stud diameter of threads engaged by the lug nut. I had 10.5 turns on my rims which might sound like a lot but is only .62" of engagement. That's not a lot at 148 lb/ft of torque. The ideal 1.5x would be .83" of engagement ... and that is before spacers. A 5mm spacer would take out about 30% of my already minimal thread engagement. My $.02

I have never heard of the "1.5 times the stud diameter" rule. That's 14 turns on a M14x1.5. Sounds high. That's more than Ford uses on the stock studs/lugs.

Anyone know for sure? Source? I'm sure there's an ISO formula somewhere.

 

[Norm Peterson]

Ease. The 1" adapters I put on the back were slick (no stud replacement necessary). I don't have any concern about their strength/safety. I know truck enthusiasts who use those bolt on adapters for some massive wheels and off roading.

One of the concerns with adapters is how do you easily guarantee that the spacer to hub/axle flange nuts remain tight without removing the wheel and putting those fasteners through a lot of torque cycles?

I've also heard of the 1.5 x diameter rule of thumb before, but I don't recall where it came from.


Norm

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