Looking for 10mm longer studs

[Optimum Performance]

Link please. Who has these?

that's not awful pricing at all

Scott, I wouldn't say that, they are priced per pack of 5. Here is a LINK to the options

I have gotten several dates the latest being Sept. Last I heard from Ford Performance they were several weeks away from receiving their hubs so I assume ARP has to fill that order first.

Ford Performance will release the studs eventually and the hope is better pricing but I'm not so sure if history is an indicator.

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[Optimum Performance]

This I know, but the part number appears to be the same in the diagrams above.

On a side note, have ARP hub kits for the Shelby?

The number is a description number as in 7003 is a transmission. I have the OE R hubs for the front but to put studs in them isn't really worth it unless you wanted 1/2". For non-R model guys the OE Hubs are the best option, allows them to run wheels with spacers.

If you want ARP 14mm studs I can put them in the hubs. The hubs are twice as much, the studs about 4 times as much. Unless you are racing there isn't much of a need for them functionally.

 

[sigintel]

that's not awful pricing at all

$60 for 20 studs? Where?
Edit, nevermind, its $240 for 20 and not available till unknown time in future.
Would be great if ARPs were available and reasonably priced.

I did receive some Ford OEM studs from a Ford contact. They are well aware of the demand.

 

[Niz55]

$60 for 5

http://www.opmustang.com/store/p99/ARP_14MM_Extended_Length_Stud_5_Pack_2015__Mustang.html


Sorry, but they are shipping sept

 

[Niz55]

$60 for 20 studs? Where?
Edit, nevermind, its $240 for 20 and not available till unknown time in future.
Would be great if ARPs were available and reasonably priced.

I did receive some Ford OEM studs from a Ford contact. They are well aware of the demand.

Switch to 1/2-20 like i did.

$17 for 5 arp studs

 

[sigintel]

Switch to 1/2-20 like i did.

$17 for 5 arp studs

Running M14x1.5 grade 10.9 610-333 at $27 for 10. About same cost but thicker bolt. Already have M14 open ended lugs and dont want 1/2 in front w M14 in rear.
I would go ARP M14 at $22 for 5 studs but they are way more expensive and not avaiable.

The goal is being able to run spacers front on a 305 square setup and only spend $27 on front studs that are same M14 as rears.

 

[Niz55]

Arp is 12.9

 

[sigintel]

Which ARP? New M14 or 1/2"?
Do the math on 1/2 ARP at 190,000 psi vs grade 10.9 M14 and its basically same clamping force.
Grade 12.9 M14 would be hella strong. Hurry up ARP... Lol.

 

[Niz55]

Which ARP? New M14 or 1/2"?
Do the math on 1/2 ARP at 190,000 psi vs grade 10.9 M14 and its basically same clamping force.
Grade 12.9 M14 would be hella strong. Hurry up ARP... Lol.

it would be strong. For me I am fine with my setup. I install parts on my car and park it back in the garage. :headbonk:

 

[RedfireV8]

Lots of good info in this thread, hopefully its ok to revive a semi old thread. Glad I found this thread as funny enough I had found that you could go with 1/2 ARP on the S550's. I plan on going with the ARP 100-7703 possibly in the near future. I miss the longer studs I had on the 07' racecar.

BTW I plan on trying the ball joint separator method to remove them and using the Lisle wheel stud installer tool. In case anyone is interested, here's a vid of using a separator to remove the studs.

[ame]

 

[MtnBiker]

Lots of good info in this thread, hopefully its ok to revive a semi old thread. Glad I found this thread as funny enough I had found that you could go with 1/2 ARP on the S550's. I plan on going with the ARP 100-7703 possibly in the near future. I miss the longer studs I had on the 07' racecar.

BTW I plan on trying the ball joint separator method to remove them and using the Lisle wheel stud installer tool. In case anyone is interested, here's a vid of using a separator to remove the studs.

I went with the 7703 (or 02 ... whatever Cortex does). Love em. Had a local machine shop take off some length and clean up the threads.

Yes, the ball joint tools will take out the studs. I recommend some kind of penetrating oil first. This technique will prevent damage to your wheel bearings. Pretty easy actually. And keep the threaded rod greased up. I greased after every other stud. You can get through at least two hubs worth of removal. My Harbor Freight tool took a dump after using the tool to put studs back on (after 3 I believe so don't get too optimistic). The threads just came off the rod. Note: the front hub is really easy to take off and a hydraulic press will work much better. I only used the technique on the rear (didn't want to mess with the drive shaft and all the one time use bolts on the hub).

On another note - I prefer the beefier lug nuts you can use with the 1/2" studs (I got some of the Gorilla forged racing jobs) vs the tuner, thin wall lugs needed with the M14 studs. Wheels made for the larger M14 lug nuts...guess that wouldn't be an issue. But for me it was a good fit.

 

[Optimum Performance]

Well if anyone is interested in 14mm Studs we have a few left in STOCK

 

[RedfireV8]

Got this done over the weekend. Having the right tools made this job easy. There were 3 studs that the ball joint tool kept slipping on that I had to "tap" out with the mini-sledge. Being that the car was so new, those 3 studs took little effort to tap out.

On the rears, you do have to trim the head so it does not interfere with this lip behind the hub..(I'm not sure what this part is called).

You do not have to remove the hub for the rear. This spot was the only place I could get both the factory stud out and ARP stud in. It's like a small cavern that they could easily slide in and out of.

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