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Input needed on next steps drag setup

ColdShotxx

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I've been trying to dual-purpose my car between drag and autox, and its time to pick a side. After winning last week's bracket event, I've got a serious bug to take it to the next level of drag racing.

My current setup:
  • '21 GT 10R80 3.15 non-pp, non-premium
  • Camber Front -1.9, -1.6 Rear
  • Toe Front .10 Out total, Rear .20 total in
  • FP Track handling package
  • FP M-1600-FP Spoiler
  • Steeda Camber Plates
  • Steeda IRS bushings
  • Steeda IRS alignment sleeves
  • Steeda IRS Braces
  • Front: SVE M1HP 19x10 wheels (rival S 1.5 275/35)
  • Rear: SVE 17x10 MT ET Street R 305/45-17
  • Wengerd E70 Tune

I am launching very soft, maybe 1k max. Shifts 1 to 2 the DRs have no problem, I still am getting some very slight hop and spin from 2-3. I'm also feeling alot of instability at high speeds(not related to the radials). I am consistently seeing 12.2 at 115mph 1.95 60' at 4600 density altitude, and will be up to 5700-6200 the coming months. Again, consistency is priority over ET, but would love to start seeing 11s.

Changes I'm considering are:
  • Reinstall factory base front and rear swaybars(softer bars=better weight transfer?)
  • GT350 Halfshafts
  • Steeda Drag Springs
  • Steeda Double Adj Rear Shocks
  • Steeda Single Adjustable Front Struts
  • Steeda Camber Bolts ( ditch the camber plates. Plates never used now even with -1.9, so a neutral alignment definitely shouldn't need plates, right?)
  • Steeda Diff Bushings
  • Steeda Vertical Links
  • Remove spoiler (~130lbs downforce?)
  • Go back close to a factory alignment: -1.0 front(0 toe), -1.20 rear (+.10 total toe)


My questions are:
  • How bad is the FP Track handling package hurting my ET and will I see that much more improvement going to a drag oriented setup?
  • Will a Steeda drag setup be that much better than just throwing in my factory dampeners/springs back in?
  • I see alot of info that drag setups use very little or no front swaybar 'to help with weight transfer'. I don't understand this, don't they effect side-to-side, not front to back? Do they prevent front strut from expanding?
  • I don't want to buy adjustable dampeners if my setting would be worse off than preset dampeners. What general setting should the compression and rebound be set at?
  • My next step down the road is LTH and CAI which I am procrastinating because I like a quiet exhaust. Is there any other modifications I'm missing other than weight reduction?
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Joshinator99

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Well since no one else has answered and I am new to the Mustang S550 world…but I do have a mid 9 second Camaro SS (soon to be in the 8’s) so I guess I’ll try to get the conversation started. :)

The OEM Mustang GT original shocks/struts are pretty soft IMO… there is a big difference vs stock Camaro SS shocks/struts. The stang ones are better for drag racing in my opinion. You’re not making enough power to really justify a major suspension upgrade…I think just reinstalling the original shocks/struts is a good move. They’ll transfer weight much more effectively than stiff road race shocks/struts will. Experienced S550 guys feel free to slap me down if I’m wrong lol!

The front sway bar is simply ~15 pounds (with brackets & end links) on the front end…right where you don’t want it drag racing. Pulling that will only help. It’s about weight transfer so letting the front end come up to plant the rear tires is a good thing.

The 17” ET Street R will be plenty of tire for you until you’re well below 10.0 seconds. Out of curiosity what pressure are you running? If you’re going to drag race I’d ditch the heavy 19x10 front wheels for some 18x5 front runners too… much lighter!
 

qtrmiler2

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I have a 18 pp1 a10 its has cradle lock outs,verticals links,billet specialties dragpack,ultimate headers through stock resonator and mufflers,steeda closed cai,circle d convertor,wengerd e85 tune.11.20s at 122 full weight.average da also.The convertor will make the biggest gain along with e85 tune.
 

Mike-S550

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I have a 18 pp1 a10 its has cradle lock outs,verticals links,billet specialties dragpack,ultimate headers through stock resonator and mufflers,steeda closed cai,circle d convertor,wengerd e85 tune.11.20s at 122 full weight.average da also.The convertor will make the biggest gain along with e85 tune.
What exact convertor by circle d do you have and what’s it like to daily it?
 

qtrmiler2

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5c drives fine.I drive it 100 miles to the track and 100 Miles home.
 

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Cory S

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Put the 305R’s at 16.5psi cold…
Get rear camber between -.3 to -.6°

Get a good 2nd gear 5-6 second burnout until you see a little smoke from both sides. Stage it, and footbrake it to 1700-1900rpm. Launch in Drive and leave it. Don’t worry about the suspension unless you get wheelhop. Stock suspension and proper rear camber, and a good footbrake launch will get you 1.65-1.6.9’s all day easy.

You shouldn’t be getting any hop on a 10R80/3.15 combo. Your camber and tire pressure needs to be where I mentioned for max stability and footprint.
 
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ColdShotxx

ColdShotxx

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Alright well my new setup is in sig, I got a PB last night but not much. I still have more time to shave off with both wheel spin and RPM launch.
I'm still getting spin 1 to 2 shift and wants to kick out to the left, perhaps due to askew alignment or might not be an issue once I get traction figured out.

20230625_112419.jpg


Left Lane:
20230625_112437.jpg
 
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ColdShotxx

ColdShotxx

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I'm trying Index for the first time, so going from dial-in full tree, to Index class .5 pro tree.
I know my reaction time will be far worse than my current routine, even if deep staging. My question is, is index ET time based on green light or still triggered from start line? -I don't know if I need to account for a longer ET due to long reaction time if its on the green(going from full to pro tree)
 

wazslow

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I'm trying Index for the first time, so going from dial-in full tree, to Index class .5 pro tree.
I know my reaction time will be far worse than my current routine, even if deep staging. My question is, is index ET time based on green light or still triggered from start line? -I don't know if I need to account for a longer ET due to long reaction time if its on the green(going from full to pro tree)
Your e.t. still starts when you break the beam.
 

cahouston

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Alright well my new setup is in sig, I got a PB last night but not much. I still have more time to shave off with both wheel spin and RPM launch.
I'm still getting spin 1 to 2 shift and wants to kick out to the left, perhaps due to askew alignment or might not be an issue once I get traction figured out.

20230625_112419.jpg


Left Lane:
20230625_112437.jpg
I checked your video and I have a few suggestions. You need a longer burnout. If you don't have friends/family with you to help tell you when they are smoking/warm, then check for smoke in side view mirror. You need more than a sub-2 second burnout with your setup. Check my video below. I had issues with the line locks so I was foot breaking which caused it to lose RPM at one point as I was feathering to keep RPM in 2nd gear around 6000-6500. I kept at it till I saw smoke though.



Next, I have more rear camber than you and I'm running a shorter, narrower tire than you and cutting 1.65-1.68 60' times (stock springs and dampeners) so the traction should be there for you. What is your cold tire pressure set to before you line up in the rear?
As soon as you finish your pass, park in the pits and check your rear tire tread. You should be able to see a contact line towards the outer edge of the tires tread. That will tell you have much of your tire is making contact with the ground. If that line is inside the width of the tread, you need to start with a lower air pressure before burnout.

Before you throw any more money into parts, you need to sure up your traction. Also, with your tires and combine rear wheel/tire weight, try launching at 2000+ RPM. My car gets out of the hole best leaving at 2000 rpm. Any higher and I push. I found I can rev to 2300 without moving if I hold the hand break but I wasn't keen on trying that for a run.

Your estimated ET and MPH at sea level would be about 11.73 @ 121.5 and your 60' shows you have a lot more in it as-is.
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