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How safe is it being supercharged?

Idaho2018GTPremium

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FWIW, I know 3 people locally who are in the 750-800+ rwhp range with their Coyotes. 2/3 have blown their trans, and 1/3 have blown their engine. Another guy just got to about 800 rwhp, so we'll see on that one.

The engines and transmissions simply aren't strong enough to handle that kind of power reliably for the long haul. Despite what a random Joe says who has been running 800 rwhp reliably for years on his Coyote, you're much more likely to run into problems when compared to stock. Consider what the OEMs do to the engines to beef them up to make them reliable: Think Predator vs Coyote, LT4 vs LT1, or Hellcat Redeye vs whatever the 6.4 SRT engine is called. Heck, Dodge even increased the strength of the Redeye engine compared to a "regular" Hellcat engine; and the Hellcat is already beefed up. All of the factory supercharged engines are much stronger than their naturally aspirated counterparts.

Then you have the trans, and other components. There's a reason the ZL1 comes with the 10L90 (90 is the torque rating) 10-speed, and a GT and SS come with the 80 (lower torque rating).

So, if you start to push the power it will likely be when, not if, something happens.
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tosha

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See that’s what scares me.
Just my personal opinion, but if that really scares/concerns you, you shouldn't do it yet. I went with roush for the reason that if something catastrophic happens soon, I have a warranty coverage. If it doesn't break during first 30k miles, then the install was done right and the rest is maintenance and some luck.
If this thought of potential breakage will be bugging you from day one, imo you will not have enough enjoyment and fun from it. If that is the case, just keep it stock or pit some NA mods. These already cars have more power than you can ever reasonably use on the streets, and if you build it for track, then well, you need to be ok to pay for it.
 
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01gt46

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Lake Charles here
I’m an insurance agent with many clients in Lake Charles. How are y’all doing? Is it getting back to normal yet? I know last year was rough for y’all.
 

SpeedLu

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Had you said up front you had water in your gas we wouldn't have to speculate.
The gas had water in it which made it bad, you just lack critical thinking skills. If you'd like the number to my insurance adjuster you can argue the semantics of what constitutes coverage for "bad gas."
 

SpeedLu

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I’m an insurance agent with many clients in Lake Charles. How are y’all doing? Is it getting back to normal yet? I know last year was rough for y’all.
Some things are back to normal, but a lot of businesses are still closed or in pieces and many people are still living in RVs, myself included. I've been in one since October of last year and insurance fought me every step of the way with coverage until I eventually had to get a lawyer and file suit. My house is in the process of being rebuilt now.
 

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SpeedLu

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See that’s what scares me.
I would add that I'm slapping that supercharger right back on once the new engine is installed. Once you go forced induction it's so hard to go back to "regular" power. I've been driving an econobox rental for the past month and it sucks worse than I could have imagined.

You only live once bro. It's just a risk you have to accept when you begin modding for high horsepower and maybe it happens maybe it doesn't. Just be ready for if it does and drive with no regrets.
 

shogun32

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You only live once bro. It's just a risk you have to accept when you begin modding for high horsepower and maybe it happens maybe it doesn't. Just be ready for if it does and drive with no regrets.
why not just install lower compression pistons? It's a 10+ grand outlay for a SC setup, what's a little more?
 

hlfbkd420

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My 2018 had a Roush P1 upgraded to a P2 and the only issue was it blew my CAT's at 4,000 miles. Traded it at 14,000 miles and got a 2019. The 2019 had the Roush P2 kit installed at 700 miles and now has 7,000 miles. 0 issues.

Both cars have had at least a 100 trips down the drag strip :)
 

BrianH87

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If you’re worried about safety then go ahead and order a reisch 170 thermostat, 5w40 or 50 oil, and the 4” pulley. That’s about all you can do without going into the tune.

I’ve looked at tunes from the gt, gt500, edelbrock, Whipple, and roush, plus some independent tuner work. Everything I’ve seen from the aftermarket sacrifices safety vs stock. The closest I’ve seen to an oem-level tune from a non-oem is roush, but it seems to underpredict cat temps and melts cats as a result.

If you wanted to take another step to ensure reliability, the tune would need work. And I don’t mean from big-name independent tuners, either, but someone who would take the time to go through the entire tune and put stock-style limits and fail-safes back in.

Auto or manual transmission?

Where in louisiana are you?
I don’t want to detract from the thread, but curious as to some of the things that aftermarket tunes bypass as far as safety. I was under the impression that the Whipple tune was one of the safer ones. Still ran cat protection, piston protection, spark knock adjustments, etc…
 

kiksbutt

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FWIW, I know 3 people locally who are in the 750-800+ rwhp range with their Coyotes. 2/3 have blown their trans, and 1/3 have blown their engine. Another guy just got to about 800 rwhp, so we'll see on that one.

The engines and transmissions simply aren't strong enough to handle that kind of power reliably for the long haul. Despite what a random Joe says who has been running 800 rwhp reliably for years on his Coyote, you're much more likely to run into problems when compared to stock. Consider what the OEMs do to the engines to beef them up to make them reliable: Think Predator vs Coyote, LT4 vs LT1, or Hellcat Redeye vs whatever the 6.4 SRT engine is called. Heck, Dodge even increased the strength of the Redeye engine compared to a "regular" Hellcat engine; and the Hellcat is already beefed up. All of the factory supercharged engines are much stronger than their naturally aspirated counterparts.

Then you have the trans, and other components. There's a reason the ZL1 comes with the 10L90 (90 is the torque rating) 10-speed, and a GT and SS come with the 80 (lower torque rating).

So, if you start to push the power it will likely be when, not if, something happens.
This. Go conservative route.
 

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engineermike

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I don’t want to detract from the thread, but curious as to some of the things that aftermarket tunes bypass as far as safety. I was under the impression that the Whipple tune was one of the safer ones. Still ran cat protection, piston protection, spark knock adjustments, etc…
The list is very long, but here are some examples:

- Borderline knock lambda modifier zeroed out
- Torque reduction enleanment allowed
- Cat protection parameters relaxed
- Transmission torque limits max’d out
- Transmission rpm limits max’d out
- Rev limiters raised
- Cylinder pressure limits raised
- Torque error limits raised
- Many more…
 

beefcake

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I’m planning on pulling the trigger on a stage 2 whipple (with whipple tune) & boundary OPG & CS tomorrow for my 2020 GT PP1. I know there’s a risk anytime you modify a car but it seems I keep reading about motor failures and seeing YouTube videos about all these people blowing their motors after adding boost.

How common is it?
Really comes down to how much power you push and how hard you push the car. Realistically there's guys blowing motors n/a. It happens. Going with Whipple tune is a conservative route and their tunes aren't bad for sure. Going with custom tuning will pull more power and be more dialed into your car but it can still be a safe setup.

Upgrading to a Billet OPG/CS isn't a bad idea either as the stock OPG is one of the weaker points of the Coyote platform.

Hit me up and I can get you dialed in for sure. Running 10% off for Black Friday plus you'd get entered into our Ultimate Supercharger refund. Doing the Boundary OPG/CS combo for $249 as well.

https://www.beefcakeracing.com/cyber-monday-sale/
 

96gt4.6

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3 years, 15k miles since my Whipple install. 1700 miles/3 states and 4 different tracks in 1 week on Rocky Mountain Race week alone this year.

Car runs a high 10 at my D/A on pump 91/Boostane. Has never seen a drop of Ethanol, because we simply do no have it here in my home town.

Been beat on about every test and tune night since I did the blower install, and it's my toy so it only comes out for race days or RMRW, with very little of the accumulated mileage being from actual driving on trips/ect.

Whipple tune since day 1, always ran great right out of the box.

Only other mods up until spring of this year were OPG's/CS, did race only exhaust spring of this year.
 

dead_inside

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FWIW, I know 3 people locally who are in the 750-800+ rwhp range with their Coyotes. 2/3 have blown their trans, and 1/3 have blown their engine. Another guy just got to about 800 rwhp, so we'll see on that one.

So, if you start to push the power it will likely be when, not if, something happens.
This is a small sample size but it’s real world results. At that power level it seems like the potential risk to long term reliability is high but it’s also safe to say those cars were driven hard. Do you think that ~600hp would be more in the realm of long term reliability for a street car? I know there are other factors like how the car is driven but solely from the perspective of the platform handling FI power.
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