Honey Badger's Completely Off-the-Rails Race Car Build and Track Adventure Thread

[Champale]

I would buy those just to have as paperweights. Works of art.

But yeah the vibration of the Voodoo might be pretty freaking horrendous with solid mounts.

 

[JAJ]

Ya, I've looked at these to lower it a bit at the same time:

https://shop.watsonracing.com/S197-S550-COYOTE-ENGINE-MOUNT-2005-CURRENT-p/wr-coyotesldmnt-cj.htm

Just need to decide if I'm willing to risk the Voodoo issues on solid motor mounts.

Why not call Watson and ask them what they think? They've probably answered that question before.

 

[honeybadger]

Why not call Watson and ask them what they think? They've probably answered that question before.

Yeah, I've reached out. We'll see what they say.

 

[dem00n]

I talked with the Ford Performance guys last year at PRI and they mentioned issues with the GT4 cars running stiffer engine mounts, bolts coming loose, breaking stuff, etc. I've cracked my flex pipe at Nelson Ledges with stock motor mounts, but flex pipe failure could be numerous things (too much flex!)

However I am still curious on how an engine that was internally balanced will react to these driveline changes, as one day I will go down the same route.

 

[Hack]

I've run solid engine mounts before. Of course it was a Fox Mustang with a relatively mild 302 in it, but I daily drove the car with solid engine mounts and never had an issue. I would be surprised if there's a big problem with running solid engine mounts on the Voodoo. Of course bolts may work loose so it would pay to inspect frequently, but I think you already do that.

 

[Muligan]

As long as you're talking with Watson about the engine mounts, ask them about their newly released shim-type camber plates (sorta like the trick version on the FP350S & GT4).

Just sent you a PM with links to that and the bill of materials for the FP350S, which outlines all of the parts used to construct that car, including part numbers and vendor name.

 

[oldbmwfan]

I've run solid engine mounts before. Of course it was a Fox Mustang with a relatively mild 302 in it, but I daily drove the car with solid engine mounts and never had an issue. I would be surprised if there's a big problem with running solid engine mounts on the Voodoo. Of course bolts may work loose so it would pay to inspect frequently, but I think you already do that.

This is when a straight-six track motor is sooooo nice. Inherently balanced and nearly vibration-free. Solid mounts are a non-issue. On the other hand, you get crank damper issues at high RPM due to the long crankshaft. No magic bullet ...

Miss my Voodoo on track, but I'm excited to get the S54 running in my track car.

@honeybadger, still following your build with interest. I do worry that the combo of lightweight flywheel/ clutch and solid mounts will create a vibration monster.

 

[SchnellGT350]

S54 is a great motor. Miss my Z Coupe

 

[shogun32]

Just sent you a PM with links to that and the bill of materials for the FP350S, which outlines all of the parts used to construct that car, including part numbers and vendor name.

will you be posting that to the forum so the rest of us can also benefit?

 

[Muligan]

will you be posting that to the forum so the rest of us can also benefit?

So it is written, so it shall be done.

In the interest of not hijacking Kevin's build thread, I started another one just for that document, as well as a link to another site that has a thread going on the recent introduction by Watson of a few of the specialized parts not previously available to the general public.

 

[honeybadger]

I talked with the Ford Performance guys last year at PRI and they mentioned issues with the GT4 cars running stiffer engine mounts, bolts coming loose, breaking stuff, etc. I've cracked my flex pipe at Nelson Ledges with stock motor mounts, but flex pipe failure could be numerous things (too much flex!)

However I am still curious on how an engine that was internally balanced will react to these driveline changes, as one day I will go down the same route.

I heard back from Watson and they said they hadn't seen anyone try the solid mounts with an FPC yet. They recommended something stiffer but with a little give. I have the BMRs on order. We'll see how those go and then re-asses.

As long as you're talking with Watson about the engine mounts, ask them about their newly released shim-type camber plates (sorta like the trick version on the FP350S & GT4).

Just sent you a PM with links to that and the bill of materials for the FP350S, which outlines all of the parts used to construct that car, including part numbers and vendor name.

I'm waiting to finalize my coilover package and then will inquire with specific questions. I'd love a set. Camber changes suck.

@honeybadger, still following your build with interest. I do worry that the combo of lightweight flywheel/ clutch and solid mounts will create a vibration monster.

Watson had the same concern, but admitted to not having any data to back up one or another. Going with BMR mounts to see what happens.

 

[JAJ]

If you have a minute to do some fun reading, check out this link:

https://www.sachsperformance.com/en/racing-clutch/sachs-rcs/porsche/racing-clutch-883082001534

I came across it when I was looking to see what racing shocks were available from Sachs. Their shocks are on the FP350S BoM and they're also the spec shocks for the Porsche Cup cars in IMSA racing. While I didn't find racing shocks I was looking for, I stumbled up the clutch kit in the link above for the Porsche GT3. The triple disc racing clutch has sintered discs and it weighs about 6 pounds all-in. The really interesting bit on the page is the notes at the bottom explaining how a lower rotating moment of inertia translates into faster acceleration. I've never seen such a clear explanation before.

Also, for anyone who wants it, the FP350S bill of material is here:

https://performanceparts.ford.com/Download/PDFS/M-FP500-FP350S_Web_BOM_7-11-2018.pdf

If you want a chuckle, look at the brake fluid that's spec for this race car: Motorcraft DOT3!

 

[Angrey]

If you have a minute to do some fun reading, check out this link:

https://www.sachsperformance.com/en/racing-clutch/sachs-rcs/porsche/racing-clutch-883082001534

I came across it when I was looking to see what racing shocks were available from Sachs. Their shocks are on the FP350S BoM and they're also the spec shocks for the Porsche Cup cars in IMSA racing. While I didn't find racing shocks I was looking for, I stumbled up the clutch kit in the link above for the Porsche GT3. The triple disc racing clutch has sintered discs and it weighs about 6 pounds all-in. The really interesting bit on the page is the notes at the bottom explaining how a lower rotating moment of inertia translates into faster acceleration. I've never seen such a clear explanation before.

Also, for anyone who wants it, the FP350S bill of material is here:

https://performanceparts.ford.com/Download/PDFS/M-FP500-FP350S_Web_BOM_7-11-2018.pdf

If you want a chuckle, look at the brake fluid that's spec for this race car: Motorcraft DOT3!

Tilton makes similar multi disk, small diameter racing clutches. Stack of dollar pancakes.

 

[shogun32]

looking to see what racing shocks were available from Sachs.

Sachs are generally not considered very good. Kinda like Koni's professional end of the spectrum but I would choose Ohlins or Penske/JRi/MCS without hesitation.

 

[honeybadger]

We’ll, dropped them k member today in preparation for replacing the engine mounts. Decided to pull the oil pan to check the oil pickup tube to see if it had broken (like the FP350S one did). It was definitely more exciting than expected. Sigh

See if you spot the foreigner in the oil pan

If guessed main stud, you nailed it.

Also, oil pickup tube was indeed broken (shocker).

I pulled the 6th main cap to see how it looked. Small gouge (looks worse than it is, but still should probably be replaced)

Fortunately crank looks perfect

Engine has 45 hours on this refresh. All at cota, so all pretty hard hours. I’m probably going to pull it out properly and start disassembly to fully investigate. Thinking I’ll just replace the main caps and timing related parts and resend it. Compression and leak down numbers were all good.