Honey Badger's Completely Off-the-Rails Race Car Build and Track Adventure Thread

[dsm_mikey]

Are you concerned about vibrations from the lack of the damped oem flywheel? I thought the flywheel is part of the solution the Ford engineers came up with to quell the flat planes vibrations. I am sure you thought of this. Curious as to if it will have an effect on durability...

How much total weight are you shaving just with this mod?

Thanks!

Ho boy! She's here and she's MAGNIFICIENT!

This is the full race setup from Spec. Billet AL flywheel with maximum weight reduction and their 184mm twin disc road race assembly.

As seen above, the pack is only a bit over 8in at widest.

Compared to the OEMs 10.75-ish

So how are we looking for weight? OEM clutch pack is about 19.6lbs.

The entire Spec clutch kit is 20.6lbs, effectively eliminating the entire OEM flywheel worth of rotational mass.

Rowdy!

 

[honeybadger]

Are you concerned about vibrations from the lack of the damped oem flywheel? I thought the flywheel is part of the solution the Ford engineers came up with to quell the flat planes vibrations. I am sure you thought of this. Curious as to if it will have an effect on durability...

How much total weight are you shaving just with this mod?

Thanks!

Definitely a bit worried. There's a ton of discussion on this, but with very little data. I've had quite a few discussions with knowledgeable folks on the issue and we weren't really able to find an answer one way or the other. But here's what I did find out:

1. OEM setup is optimized to reduce driveline NVH. There's also discussion that it's related to engine reliability, but Ford's public statements don't seem to directly back this up. The focus seemed to be more about driveability.
2. Because the OEM clutch is dual-mass, when it fails, it fails BIG. You'll have a mass imbalance now turning 8k rpm--school cars saw many a cracked block/blown transmissions from flywheel failures. I've seen a few from friends
3. The Voodoo does indeed have wild vibrations. In fact, I just found a bolt on my MGW shifter that had backed out--4 years after it was installed. However, an OEM motor vibrates a lot more than my built-motor in my experience. I got buddies cracking headers, mid pipes, motor mounts, etc. I have yet to have an issue with anything like that since I built the motor (knock on wood).

Armed with the info above, I went to my build and asked him. He's not seeing any trends from built Voodoos having issues with aftermarket clutches. Now, most are built of the drag strip, but not all. He also said because my engine is internally balanced, he's in favor of throwing the lightest clutch you can find that is balanced to race specs.

Given the above, I felt it was worth a try. We'll see what happens.

One thing is for sure, it'll get tons of use and I'll be transparent about how well it works (or doesn't).

 

[dsm_mikey]

Love it!! I will stay tuned for an update...should be a little more responsive to blipping! I am guessing you are taking 20-30 lbs of weight out of the clutch/flywheel package if you are removing the flywheel weight! Not sure what the stock dual-mass flywheel weighs...

 

[honeybadger]

Love it!! I will stay tuned for an update...should be a little more responsive to blipping! I am guessing you are taking 20-30 lbs of weight out of the clutch/flywheel package if you are removing the flywheel weight! Not sure what the stock dual-mass flywheel weighs...

I don't have mine out to weigh it, but I believe it's like 31lbs, or should be 30lbs of mass removal. That should be apparent. Engine already revved pretty fast. Can't wait to see how it feels now.

 

[Muligan]

Just went down to the basement and weighed the spare OEM clutch and flywheel that I got from FPRS when I bought the Mule -

52.0 lbs!!!

 

[honeybadger]

That's crazy. 31.4 lb weight reduction!

 

[barstowpo]

I have an extra flywheel. I'll go down to the barn and weigh it tomorrow if I remember. I too am curious about removing the damping effect of the stock setup. I have one of the FPRS Track Attack cars and mine had the engine and transmission replaced due to cracks from a flywheel failure. It is so cool you are willing to share your successes and failures with us.

 

[honeybadger]

So some updates. I've been moving slowly and working on the clutch install, but I've run into a few snags.

First, I started monkeying around with my camber plates up front to add some more camber and I ran into two problems. On the driverside, I went to loosen one of the nuts and it just snapped off. I'm fairly confident that this wasn't from over torquing since I use a torque wrench every time, but could be wrong. Either way, that sucks.

I thought no biggie, I guess I'll have to get new camber plates. Went to the other side and found that the top nut had come loose and the play inside screwed up the tolerances. The stud on the top of the strut is all chewed up (not pictured) and the camber plate is about 1/16" wider diameter than it should be. So it looks like at least the passenger side front strut is toast and given their age, it's time to retire them. I've started talks with Cortex about a set of coilovers. Hopefully can get those ordered soon.

Now, back to the clutch install. I got the OEM flywheel(original that came with the car) and clutch pack (second one, installed in 2019) and both look good. I don't think they're the issue I was having.

New clutch is in and trans is ready to go back in.

However, I started inspecting the back of the engine more closely and realized my header wrap was starting to fall apart. I started pulling on it and found that it looks like the headers are rubbing on the frame rails. I've already clearanced these once before and there's a good .5" or more in all directions.

However, we can see (sorta) that the frame rails are pretty cooked. Paint is flaking and everything. The heat shield on the driver side (but above the header) appears to be cooked and show signs of contact as well.

Wondering if the motor mounts are shot and allowing the engine to move around too much?

 

[Tractor Junk]

I noticed the GT350 Track Attack School kept a large stock of new engine mounts, when they sent their list of parts for sale.

Possibly a sign of common failure on track?

 

[Scootsmcgreggor]

Read in another thread that worn mount sagged enough for lth’s to contact the framerails. New mounts fixed it.

 

[honeybadger]

I noticed the GT350 Track Attack School kept a large stock of new engine mounts, when they sent their list of parts for sale.

Possibly a sign of common failure on track?

I'm thinking so. I'm going to try some BMR mounts and see how that goes. Even if they're not failed completely, I'd like to reduce movement a bit.

Read in another thread that worn mount sagged enough for lth’s to contact the framerails. New mounts fixed it.

I don't see mine sagging/falling apart yet, but can't fully confirm until I remove them.

 

[Champale]

HB - FYI there is a recent thread on another Mustang forum you frequent about some BMR engine mount issues. Might want to check it out.

 

[honeybadger]

HB - FYI there is a recent thread on another Mustang forum you frequent about some BMR engine mount issues. Might want to check it out.

Ya, I saw that. Somehow bent his mount. Assume that's the one you're referring to?

 

[Champale]

Yes, that one. Looks like Watson sells some pretty trick ones but they might be more extreme than you are looking for.

Motor Mounts for Mustang Coyote Engine (watsonracing.com)

 

[honeybadger]

Yes, that one. Looks like Watson sells some pretty trick ones but they might be more extreme than you are looking for.

Motor Mounts for Mustang Coyote Engine (watsonracing.com)

Ya, I've looked at these to lower it a bit at the same time:

https://shop.watsonracing.com/S197-S550-COYOTE-ENGINE-MOUNT-2005-CURRENT-p/wr-coyotesldmnt-cj.htm

Just need to decide if I'm willing to risk the Voodoo issues on solid motor mounts.