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Xantom
Well-Known Member
What modes are you running HDP4's and the HDP1 in?
1 -HDP4 to mid's and tweets, 150 W x 4 (4Ω)? I assume you are using the 2 way crossover with that speaker set?
1 - HDP4 to 7" woofers, 500 W x 2 (4Ω)?
HDP1 to your JL Subs 600 W x 1 (4Ω) or 1000 W x 1 (2Ω)?
How did you conceal the HRC and only expose the knob, that looks great?
1 -HDP4 to mid's and tweets, 150 W x 4 (4Ω)? I assume you are using the 2 way crossover with that speaker set?
1 - HDP4 to 7" woofers, 500 W x 2 (4Ω)?
HDP1 to your JL Subs 600 W x 1 (4Ω) or 1000 W x 1 (2Ω)?
How did you conceal the HRC and only expose the knob, that looks great?
JLsounds
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #65
one HDP4 will be bridged to power the 7" midbass drivers. The second HDP4 will be in 4 channel mode powering the mids and tweets. The HDP1 will power the subs at a 4 ohm load. I try to keep all my builds at 4 ohm when possible for maximum headroom. The midbass will be at 2 ohm. the rest of the system is at 4 ohm. we are not using the passive crossovers. Everything is done actively through the Bit One. Using the passives would limit our abilities with the time alignment function of the processor. Using the passives also limits our abilities with changing crossover points, etc. We almost always set up systems in an active form when possible. If you are using a tuning processor like the Bit One, Focal piece or an Audio Control piece and you want the best from it then run your system active. As for the sub knob....I simply took it apart, drilled the hole and ran a fine bead of hot glue along the circuit board and the lip of the panel to hold it in place. I wanted to do something cool with the 12V socket and make it look like a cig. lighter but time is getting away from me on this project. We did that in an A8 we built a couple of years ago and it was really cool. I'm hoping to have this car up and running this weekend.
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JLsounds
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #67
circuit breaker mounted under the fuse box under the hood
0 AWG power ran up to the battery
terminated at the battery. I will run the factory battery for now. We will upgrade in the future with a Stinger battery
distro block for power mounted behind the passenger rear panel. No room in the amp rack for power or ground distrobution so we had to go outside the rack. The grounds are mounted on the driver's side. We used the seat belt retention bolt for the ground and ran three separate 4awg grounds to it.
JLsounds
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #68
Here is a couple of shots of the finished trunk. If you notice the chrome rings around the subs, this is to replicate the chrome around the factory speaker grills in the door panels. These are NOT metal. This is chrome plated acrylic. We also copied all of the angles in the door panel. This panel although hard to see in the pics has a lot of router work done to mimic the factory door panel. The stitched pieces hide the mounting for the panel. The acrylic logo in the middle is back lit with white LED's that activate with the trunk being opened. We just need to finish the trim panel for the amp rack and then we begin tuning.
wildcatgoal
@sirboom_photography
Gimme that box! ;)
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JLsounds
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #71
We officially got the car up and running yesterday. We had to go back and make a few changes. The first being with our baffles in the doors. We originally had built them to get the midbass driver as far forward as possible. This created a problem with the door panel resonating really bad due to how much output the MILLE drivers produce. We shortened the baffles up by a 1/4" of an inch and installed new fast rings to seal the panel to the speaker. Problem fixed. We also ran into an issue with me not running rear speakers ( I never do). The backup sensors come through the rear speakers. We didn't want to have the rear speakers playing at all as it would require us to run the factory amp or power them in some other way. We simply took the signal from the factory amp and used it to power an amplified speaker out of an ESCORT integrated radar system. Problem solved. All other features like bluetooth, etc. come out of the factory headunit so we are good there. The only thing I haven't tested yet is the front end crash avoidance system. I know with no audio hooked up the LED's would still flash so I'm hoping that comes through the headunit as well. I will try and test that over the weekend. We used our Bit Tune to get a basic tune and get the car playing. While we still have quite a bit of work ahead of us with tuning, the labor part is pretty much over. OEMRadio's (member on here) reprogramming of the factory headunit and help with schematics was a god send. If you are thinking of doing a complete audio system overhaul then you need to have him reprogram your factory ACM. It takes out all the factory equalization and time alignment and gives you a flat signal with a little over 3 volts of output. This is critical when doing a Processor like the Bit One. Yes there are devices like the new JL Fix that will do the same thing for you but, you will have to use their volume source to not have the factory equalization come back into play. Yes my Bit One would've done the same thing with the deequalization feature during the initial setup but again, I would've had to use the DRC that comes with it as my volume source. I wanted to use all my factory features and not have to use a separate volume knob to control the system. Nice thing about his change is that it is like having a high end headunit in my vehicle. The car images very well for a "box" tune from the Bit Tune. Because of the reprogramming and the Bit Processor, my two full range amps gains are all the way down and I have plenty of volume. The sub amp is about half way so I can be a bass head when I want. My only complaint so far is that exterior rear of the car rattles far more than I would like. This has nothing to do with the sound deadening or the install. The enclosure is so sealed off from the rest of the car that the pressure has no where else to go. Most of the rattle is coming from my 3D Carbon carbon fiber body kit. I'll have to get under the car and see about getting the mounting points to be tighter. Thanks again to OEMRadio for the programming and overall help. I will post pics of the amp rack once we are done with it.
Evolvd
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Man, if my Mustang was a DD I'd be doing something like this. Thankfully I have a Corolla and I don't give much crap about it's sound lol. Good work!
JLsounds
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #75
not a ton of issues. we did have to go back and shave a little off the front baffles. The wiring is very tight in the amp rack so it took twice as long to wire up. We are considering front loading the tweeters as the factory grills are a little more restrictive than we would like. Biggest thing I would suggest is do the install once. Don't work on it when you have time like I had too. Taking apart panels numerous times can cause clips to break as they are very small in the Mustang. I replaced quite a few. Definitely have OEMradio reprogram your ACM. Best part of the install was having that done. It allowed my processor to function as it should.
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