HELP! Rear Subframe bolt Cross Threaded

[Digital_Synapse]

Word to the wise...Do NOT trust Harbor freight torque wrenches.

If only you told me this last year.

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[Carfanatic]

If only you told me this last year.

the icon one is pretty nice.

 

[BlownGP]

Damn.... I just did the BMR kit this weekend and the whole job only took 2 hours - but almost a full hour of that was trying to get the left front bolt back in without cross-threading it. Only worked it by hand so I could feel instantly when it would start to bind, but it was super frustrating. I do feel a little better knowing that it's not something *I* specifically f'ed up tho.

I'm glad it wasn't only me . hahaha

I had hell getting everything tightened back up after my spring and shock install.

I didn't strip the big blue bolt but both of the smaller ones next too it. I had to tap it and it was fine. But I've worked on a lot cars over the years can't remember one being such a pain in the ass when getting bolts back in.

 

[FordMustacheGT]

I ran into some trouble getting the front, driver’s-side bolt started couple weeks ago and one thing that helped a lot was using a jack to raise the subframe all the way up to the chassis before starting the final bolt as opposed to trying to start the bolt with the subframe in the lowered position and drawing the subframe upwards with the bolt. I’d already gotten the passenger side bolts somewhat snug at that point.

I think there’s so little play between the alignment inserts and the subframe bolts that you really just need the bolt to be pointed in the right direction to start it without risking cross threading.

 

[TeeLew]

Good times! I dealt with this so often that I developed my own IRS Stud kit to help racers who remove their subframes often, avoid this inssue entirely.

http://kelltrac.com/IRS-Subframe-to-Chassis-Stud-Kit_p_24.html

Hey, I just went to buy this part off your site and it's MIA. Will you carry this again in the future?

 

[Whitedevil95]

This thread did help me a lot by having me ready to look for cross threading. I was able to get it done without a crossthread but it was a pain in the ass. and i was very careful to get them in by hand many turns before sending them home.

 

[Hostil]

On my way to Harbor Freight.... So much for "being back on the road in no time"! ugh

 

[Robottrainer]

I tried Anti Seize on my shock bolt I almost fked up,it was a little cross threaded and
the Anti Seize for some reason worked (old time trick)
Or youll need a tap...

I hate the way new cars have threads in the frame this way and not a nut and bolt
config

I ran into the same on the rear lower control arm shock bolts. Bought brand new bolts and everything. I had to run a tap through it. I think this starts at the factory with expedience over diligence.

 

[Robottrainer]

Thank you very much for your reply, I tried to do that first, but the issue I ran into was that I do not have a socket that fits over the end of this. They are either too big, or too small. I tried it with the one that fit the closest, and whenever there was resistance it just slipped over the end. That seemed like the easiest as well as the best solution for me as well.

You need a square head bolt socket. It's an eight point socket. Probably 1/4"

 

[Robottrainer]

Are you trying to put the 4th one in, after the other three are tight?

If so, loosen them ALL up....and let the cradle hang down about 1" (gap between the body and top bushings) then address the one you are having issues with, first. Thread it in about half way....then caddy corner the next one...then just tighten them up like .25" at a time.

It is a pita, but can be done. Most people will "distort" the cradle slightly when centering it due to OEM tolerances.

This is a very good reason why we didnt "perfectly" center the cradle with the CB005 Kit....but just made it "more centered" - we had you guys in mind during the install.

Good luck!

It's probably why there is all that adjustment in the toe links.

 

[Robottrainer]

I had them all loose, had two pry bars and no help. I'm a fairly strong guy. I think something has to be wrong with the car's bolt hole. All three lined up loose and went in hand tight, the fourth started hand tight just fine and stopped. I can't wrap my head around the fact that three line up and the fourth doesn't. That doesn't make sense, if the two on the right and lined up, there's absolutely no play in those alignment pieces. That shit goes in straight lol. The cradle should be square with the other side. Hence the rear going in no problem. We are talking millimeters off here across a span of a few feet, I understand it's going to be stupid tight, but that's down right insane.

There is a stud kit available. A bit easier on the threads

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