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Steeda subframe bushings.. possable crosses threaded main bolt

NewTekBuzz

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So I got the back of the car up on jack stands and installed the Steeda subframe bushings and alignment inserts. Although it was a pain 3 of the 4 went as expected. The forth and last one fought me all the way. The last bolt got tight about a quarter of the way in so I took it out and started it again... same thing, really tight for the last 3/4’s. So tight I feel it may have cross threaded.
What’s the worst case here? Is there a component that can be replaced on the body side?
Thanks
Tim
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tj@steeda

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Let me check with our install team & see if there are any concerns.

I will let you know as soon as I speak to them.

TJ
 

SteedaTech

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So I got the back of the car up on jack stands and installed the Steeda subframe bushings and alignment inserts. Although it was a pain 3 of the 4 went as expected. The forth and last one fought me all the way. The last bolt got tight about a quarter of the way in so I took it out and started it again... same thing, really tight for the last 3/4’s. So tight I feel it may have cross threaded.
What’s the worst case here? Is there a component that can be replaced on the body side?
Thanks
Tim
First, clean the bolts with a wire wheel to clean the original Loctite off, than start all bolts by hand. Make sure you apply blue Loctite on assembly.
In some cases the last bolt may be difficult, just pry the sub-frame into place and hand start. Torque to spec. The tap size is 14x2.0

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NewTekBuzz

NewTekBuzz

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Are you saying apply loctite the the bolt that’s being difficult? Everything is installed and torqued to spec. I will keep an eye on it, just wondered if it backed out because of cross threading, what would be the fix.
Thanks for the help
 

Cobra Jet

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Have you tried to loosen the other bolts so there’s no possible binding occurring on the last one you’re trying to get installed? Loosen and try to adjust, then try getting that last bolt settled in before tightening up all others.
 

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SYK

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Are you saying apply loctite the the bolt that’s being difficult? Everything is installed and torqued to spec. I will keep an eye on it, just wondered if it backed out because of cross threading, what would be the fix.
Thanks for the help
He is saying the original bolt had loctite on it already when you removed it. clean it off completely with a wire-wheel so you are not fighting gummed up loctite during re-installation while fighting subframe bushing that wants to sit differently than what the new inserts want to guide it into
 

the_5.0h

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Are you saying apply loctite the the bolt that’s being difficult? Everything is installed and torqued to spec. I will keep an eye on it, just wondered if it backed out because of cross threading, what would be the fix.
Thanks for the help
Curious as to what your status is with this. I did the same thing that you did. The last bolt (front passenger side) stopped about 50% of the way through so backed it out and the threads seemed fine so I put it back in and tightened it down even with the resistance. I've put about 2k miles on my car since and no issues, but I am wondering if I should have tapped the threads before tightening down like some of the threads are suggesting. Should i take the bolt out, tap the threads and then put a new bolt in?
Thanks in advance!
 

NeverSatisfied

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Welcome to the club, I managed to cross thread one myself during an install. I seriously thought I had it lined up and started by hand. I’m not a ham fisted mechanic, but I gave it an Uga dooga after starting it by hand and it bound up.

I backed the bolt out, tried a bunch to get it to rethread by hand but no luck.

I Threw tools. Cussed the world. Bought a tap. put it on an extension, fed it through the subframe and lined it up square best I could. I said a prayer and committed.

Tap managed to find the old threads (you can’t see what you’re doing feeding it through the sub frame)

Was much more careful on the second round install.

I’d probably chase every hole during an install if I ever did one again!
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