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I tuned the trans, active exhaust, idle and fans on mine with both PCMtec and HPtuners. Its was a dealer installed Roush stage 2. I would start by loading the original roush tune and start over with a knowledgeable tuner.

When they fail they just disintegrate. much less violent than a steel or aluminum which will remove your floor if they let go. The QA1 were coated to protect them from small stones. The 13s and 14s had them. i havent heard of one failure in those

Not surprising it might take a couple of tries. There are variations car to car. its why some have more and/or different problems than others.

Fair warning. you are probably looking at about 1000 dollars by the time you buy the HP device for loading the new strategy and the tune.

Very interesting document. Thanks! Mines a 2021. so far I didnt need the drum or can repair. I think the drum issue was a combination of poor design and excessive heat. I dont belive many mustangs had the problem unless you tracked the car. The F150 would have had a more day to day issue...

You'll love it when it shift correctly. it sounds like software I just bought a Ranger with a 10R60. it looks like they finally got their shift together.

How does it behave in different modes? if it behaves better in one mode and not another. its software. obvious, but have you tried a reset and see how it behaves? again, if it works better after a reset its probably software.

In my opinion, no dealer will be able to fix it if its mechanically sound. They just keep loading the same crappy software. My situation was a bit different. I have a Roush stage 2 set up. Roush does nothing to the trans side. I did not want to disturb the engine side. I just wanted to...

Id say vent. did it get hot?

Best Bang for the buck. world class engine.

I did this once for GESI cats but had to go back to the OEM. I still have the GESI cats and exhaust that works with oem headers. Ford wanted the manifold back. The one I modified along with the cat. know what a pain in the ass it is to heat and beat the drivers side round before welding a...

Thank you!

So all idle points to 750?

Is there any issue using the oem exhaust manifolds from a Gen 1 on a Gen 3. I think the ports are raised on a gen 3. if so can the oem manifolds be port matches without breaking in the welds?

I was considering bumping up the hot in gear idle a 100rpm or so. there are several items in the PCMtec array. can anyone point me in the correct direction?

Heres my set up. it stays at low speed until it hits 185. then it jumps to 85%. You can feel the rpm drop slightly from the load. once it hits 190 it goes to 100%. at that point it sits at 190 all day at idle.

It wont if you change the fan settings for the cooler T stat. mine hits 190 max. 10 deg is significant.

Just went through this. I had a 170 installed when I bought the car and had the the Roush SC dealer installed. Roush would not change the fan strategy. What happens is its fine and good while you are moving. it will drop down to 181. without the tune and when stopped idling in the heat it...

Fuel has to be between 3/4 and 1/2 tank. and then lots a varied driving. sometimes needs 3 key cycles (has to cool right down before driving again). I reflashed the ECU to change the fan tables and had sto start over. on the second drive cycle, I did stop and go and then a very long cruise...

Oops! you are looking for a 401A. Mines a 301A