HELP! Rear Subframe bolt Cross Threaded

[jdoug]

Glad it worked out for you, kinda. I also used a temporary bolt that I got from Ace Hardware until I could get a real Ford bolt. It held up just fine for the two or so days.

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[Commbubba19]

Also having the issue with the driver's front.

I'm doing the BMR cradle kit. I've loosened all 4 bolts. Then removed the driver's front and rear. Put in the kit and then raised the cradle up via a jack. I started the rear by hand and then the front. The front started a few turns with ease and then i used a ratchet. Sure enough it got tight quick and i immediately backed it out and tried again. I noticed each time that once it got difficult, material was being removed from the threads when i removed the bolt. Pic below (ignore the steeds alignment spacers, not using them).

I made extra extra care that the threads wouldn't be stripped. There was no lateral load on the bolt, i was lined up perfectly.

Not sure if a Tap of the hole is the next step. I'm kind of stuck at the moment until I get this resolved.

 

[16s550]

I left that alignment bushing out. Only installed three and my alignment in rear was all green. When I install the 4th I'm just going to a shop that had lift. I think that's the easiest way to get the 4th one in.

 

[Silentskorn]

Also having the issue with the driver's front.

I'm doing the BMR cradle kit. I've loosened all 4 bolts. Then removed the driver's front and rear. Put in the kit and then raised the cradle up via a jack. I started the rear by hand and then the front. The front started a few turns with ease and then i used a ratchet. Sure enough it got tight quick and i immediately backed it out and tried again. I noticed each time that once it got difficult, material was being removed from the threads when i removed the bolt. Pic below (ignore the steeds alignment spacers, not using them).

I made extra extra care that the threads wouldn't be stripped. There was no lateral load on the bolt, i was lined up perfectly.

Not sure if a Tap of the hole is the next step. I'm kind of stuck at the moment until I get this resolved.

I had a similar issue when I installed the alignment kit and Steeda Support Bushings. I was able to insert 3 of the subframe bolts except the front driver's side. Ended up buying the tap and die kit from Harbor Freight. I think part of the issue is all the debris that gets stuck in the threads. Multiple passes with the tap helps alot.

 

[Niz55]

When it doesn't go in don't force it. Realign the hole with a pry bar and slowly thread the bolt in. I have done this many many many time and never cross threaded anything.

If you are in Orange County CA, I can come over and help you out.

 

[16s550]

I almost feel like I ruined the threads by trying to align it with the pry bar. I feel like driving down to socal so you can help me. Lol.

 

[Commbubba19]

I had a similar issue when I installed the alignment kit and Steeda Support Bushings. I was able to insert 3 of the subframe bolts except the front driver's side. Ended up buying the tap and die kit from Harbor Freight. I think part of the issue is all the debris that gets stuck in the threads. Multiple passes with the tap helps alot.

i ordered a 14x2 tap and die. It's just so weird how easily it got cross threaded. Just sucks the car has to sit like this for probably a week or more until the tap arrives.

Has anyone swapped out the blue sub frame bolts for better grade 8 bolts that aren't designed for self tapping?

 

[16s550]

There's no harbor frieght near you? That's where I found the right tap.

 

[Commbubba19]

There's no harbor frieght near you? That's where I found the right tap.

Didn't want to buy a whole kit. I already have one it just doesn't have that size.

 

[K-Roll302]

Sorry for bumping an old thread but I'm desperate to know. Would a cross threaded subframe bolt drilled all the way in by the dealership cause a clunk sound that sounds like something metal knocking around in the trunk? If so, I've found my culprit.

 

[jbailer]

Sorry for bumping an old thread but I'm desperate to know. Would a cross threaded subframe bolt drilled all the way in by the dealership cause a clunk sound that sounds like something metal knocking around in the trunk? If so, I've found my culprit.

See answer in other thread.

 

[Doctor Fishtail]

Sorry for bumping an old thread but I'm desperate to know. Would a cross threaded subframe bolt drilled all the way in by the dealership cause a clunk sound that sounds like something metal knocking around in the trunk? If so, I've found my culprit.

No. If it is stripped in the frame rail it is actually an easy fix. My drivers front stripped and had it fixed in 20-30 minutes.

 

[jbailer]

No. If it is stripped in the frame rail it is actually an easy fix. My drivers front stripped and had it fixed in 20-30 minutes.

Why do you say no? It's actually very likely if it's cross threaded the installer could have stopped at the correct torque and the subframe still not be tight. That is a very likely cause of the knocking sound. It would be very easy to take the bolt back out, check the condition of the threads, run a tap if needed and replace the bolt to proper torque specs.

 

[K-Roll302]

No Harbor Freight or O'Reily's near me had a 14 mm x 2.0 tap. I've ordered a new bolt, but I need to order the right tap online now. Are the threads right or left handed?

 

[xXANCHORMONXx]

I've done maybe 20 cb005 installs

It is easy peezy,

There is no way you will every cross thread anything if you put the bolt in by hand.

If you feel resistance 9/10 times it will not fix itself.

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