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Help did speaker upgrade

ponytwogo

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I have a 2015 Eco premium with 9 speaker shaker with no sub. I replaced all door and front center speakers with kicker 2 way speakers and now sounds afull, I tried removing center speaker and still is bad with no bass and way to bright and tinny. Thing about putting all stock speakers back in it sounds so bad. I don't want to add extra amps and all that just want a cleaner sounding system. Any help advice apricated, I did try the EQ disable with forscan and don't think it changed anything.
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5doorsoffury

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well first issue is speaker impedance. ill bet my left nut thoes shaker speakers are single element and low ohms. prob some odd number with a decimal and the kicker are 4 ohm speakers with caps and tweeters hence the "2 way". usally we told customers with a shaker to get a full system. shaker, bose, infinity ect all proprietary bs that u cant just swap aftermarket crap in. idk what series shaker is the 9 but usally they have 2 amps.
 

S550HPP

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2 way speakers was your first mistake. Return them and get good quality 4 ohm door and 3.5 component speakers $250-500, and try again. Whatever's discounted the most with MSRP $400 should be fine.

DIYmobileaudio forum has good mid range at good prices used.

OE tweeters are bright enough over lapping more high frequency from two ways is the issue

Start with default forscan first.

If can't return kicker just snip the wires to tweeters or try and resell them or junk them.
 
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ponytwogo

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well first issue is speaker impedance. ill bet my left nut thoes shaker speakers are single element and low ohms. prob some odd number with a decimal and the kicker are 4 ohm speakers with caps and tweeters hence the "2 way". usally we told customers with a shaker to get a full system. shaker, bose, infinity ect all proprietary bs that u cant just swap aftermarket crap in. idk what series shaker is the 9 but usally they have 2 amps.
Stock speakers 4 ohm, kickers 4ohm and don't find a component set with 6.5 or 6.75 with 3.5 mids.
 

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ponytwogo

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Is there a 6.5 6.75 mid bass you would recommend for stock amp use.from what I read on this site the stock amp is Low passed at approx 125.
 

sk47

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Parts Express: Speakers, Amplifiers, Audio Parts and Solutions

Hello; I do not know the best answer for your problem. The above link is for an outfit in Ohio. In addition to having lots of speakers for sale they have very useful tech help.

Matching the ohms is good and you did that. Another thing to match is the efficiency of the speakers. For example are the home stereo speaker cabinets I re-built maybe 20 years ago. I bought a nice stereo in 1970. The components went bad so i replaced the speakers, crossovers and other parts. I used replacement speakers in the 93 dB efficiency range. The two speaker cabinets are now part of my seven-channel home theater setup. When buying the satellite & center speakers I tried to get speakers near the 93 dB range.

Anyway they may have some answers.
 

GTP

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Professional loudspeaker designer since 1993 here. Designing loudspeakers is more complicated than first meets the eye.

One assumption that everyone makes on our cars is that Ford did not sufficiently design the audio system to sound good. This could be lack of proper system design and acoustic measurements and so on, and that is my personal suspicion as well.

Or it could be that they simply did not program in proper EQ to make flat the raw acoustic SPL driver curves before designing and optimizing the electronic crossover curves. Do you have any idea how many speakers are out there in the world with this same basic deficiency?

Don't take all the free advice found on this forum. Here are some examples of bad advice.
  • Replace all your speakers with aftermarket ones. (The chance of matching the factory driver EQ and crossover alignment is 0%.)
  • Just match driver impedance. (Totally not sufficient. The actual raw SPL and raw impedance curves would have to match, and the chance of that is 0%.)
  • Disable the factory EQ via Forscan. (I have yet to read about anyone on this forum post voltage transfer function curves for the signal feeds to the drivers to prove this is actually a step in the right direction.)
  • Replace the factory amp with something more powerful, more complicated, and more expensive. (Just how loud do you need your car stereo to go? Are you planning to throw a block party with the doors open? Do you have the means for acoustic measurement/test and the knowledge of how to develop a better system?)
I could go on (and on), but in my professional opinion as a speaker designer, and my opinion as a lifelong audiophile, I really DO think you are better off putting all the original speakers back.

Disable the dash center speaker (or at least first switch to Surround mode), and fade much of the sound to the front (because the rear shelf speakers are also very bad).

Then you are better off spending your time and money to add a small (8-10") sub in the trunk. Run power to it. Repurpose the rear shelf speaker wires to feed a new high-level-input sum-to-mono amp. Ask for help on how to make those wires are full-range.
 

MathematicsDP

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I have helped several people in person and online with car audio advice. In my opinion, if you ever want to upgrade the speakers in your car you have to ask yourself what's your budget and what are your goals.

If you simply are wanting better sound and you're on a budget, there are things that you can do to improve the sound using your factory speakers.

However, if the goal is to go aftermarket with the speakers and use the factory amp, you'll need to make sure that the speaker independence matches the factory speakers so the load is exactly the same or very close to it.

The thing with any sound stage is you want to optimize the front sound stage in every way possible. This way you can make the decision on what works best for you. Something that may be best for someone else's setup may not necessarily be best for you.

Here is a link to a post that I've provided some great advice on.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...question-shaker-12-w-sub.209488/#post-4178644

The factory setup can be optimized with a few things.

Sound Deadening
Closed Cell Foam (CCF)
Speaker Baffles

You can easily do this for $100 total and the difference may actually amaze you. I recommend this as a base to start to make sure you're getting the most out of it. Check out my responses in that link and feel free to ask any questions that you may have.
 

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ponytwogo

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S550HPP

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Will this change the ohms ?
Good question!! I have no idea. If they are cheap it doesn't matter because they sound like garbage now thanks to the high frequency overlap and beaming.

Your OE 6.5 door speakers are probably way better because they are not bad to start with. I'd reinstall those.
 

K4fxd

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I went with high spl speakers in the doors and low hz capable speakers in the rear deck. This was a mistake. I do like a balanced sound stage, I hate all the sound coming from the doors. What I should have done was put the low spl woofers in the door and the high spl mid drivers in the rear deck.

Disabling the band pass or whatever in forscan improved the bass response. I like audiophile quality sound, not thump.
 

Brigadir

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Although here are different opinions in the comments, let me add mine based on my experience, since I did audio upgrade step by step observing the intermediate results.

Replacing the factory speakers with Focal Access 165A3 kit brought significant improvement. I also disconnected the central and rear speakers. And adjusted the config in Forscan.

The next significant improvement was by sound deadening, especially the doors.

Further improvements require aftermarket amplifier, better with DSP.

Here is my post for more details: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...ts-a-magic-step-to-make-sound-perfect.185530/
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