HELP: “Drive Mode Selection Not Available” - NOT Exhaust Valve Related

[WItoTX]

I really don't know the answer. I would start at the beginning with the battery. Are you sure it was fully charged? If so, did you clear all the codes, only for them to return after a full 6 cycles?

That would be where I would start. If the abs, vcm, and all the other codes are still there after that, then it's probably beyond my pay grade. I would figure out what the cheapest thing to fix is, and start there. I would still Google all the codes, as well as search on this forum and TMO.

I'm still not convinced it's a VCM issue with all those other codes.

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[voodoochild1990]

I really don't know the answer. I would start at the beginning with the battery. Are you sure it was fully charged? If so, did you clear all the codes, only for them to return after a full 6 cycles?

That would be where I would start. If the abs, vcm, and all the other codes are still there after that, then it's probably beyond my pay grade. I would figure out what the cheapest thing to fix is, and start there. I would still Google all the codes, as well as search on this forum and TMO.

I'm still not convinced it's a VCM issue with all those other codes.

Codes reappeared every time I started back up and ran diagnostics last night, I may try the ECU/PCM reset technique of connecting the battery ground to the positive terminal for 5-10 mins and see if that does anything.

When you say "6 cycles" what do you mean? 6 ignition cycles?

 

[WItoTX]

Codes reappeared every time I started back up and ran diagnostics last night, I may try the ECU/PCM reset technique of connecting the battery ground to the positive terminal for 5-10 mins and see if that does anything.

When you say "6 cycles" what do you mean? 6 ignition cycles?

No, not ignition cycles. I don't remember the term, but basically the ECU has these cycles it runs through. Someone way smarter than me can chime in, but basically after your clear your codes (from your Forscan), the CEL will flash 6 times, and it does this until the car has run through enough cycles. I don't recall why it does any of this, just that it does, and there is a reason for it.

It's been since May that I was digging into this, so my memory may be a little off. I hope someone way smarter can chime in.

 

[Cobra Jet]

Aside from pulling codes - and getting the same even after a reset - have you tried to visually inspect all wiring harnesses, connectors etc?

If you're still getting a code and a malfunction AFTER resetting, then there is a breach or ground out somewhere. That would mean there is a broken or chafed wire either visually outside of the conduit or if not visually it's WITHIN the conduit.

You can't just look at a harness externally and go "yep, looks good".

I would start with the cam harness it's the most common break point that does affect other systems/modules.

Then I would check the Active Exhaust harnesses at the ends of the mufflers (another common break point). Then go FORWARD of the AE system and follow up up to the front of the car making sure there are no breaks or damages.

From there check all ground points in engine bay and do wiggle rear on all wiring connectors to make sure they ar ROUSH Ed I all the sudden and secure.

Check ALL fuses behind the passenger side kick panel AND those in the fuse box in the engine bay - look for any that may be loose or blown.

If you pull a connector, check the lins and are sure those are secure too.

Your issue is most likely going to be possibly related to a wiring harness or connector.

You can sit there until the sun goes down and keep resetting DTCs, but if they're coming back, there's an inherent problem that needs to be fixed.

 

[voodoochild1990]

Aside from pulling codes - and getting the same even after a reset - have you tried to visually inspect all wiring harnesses, connectors etc?

If you're still getting a code and a malfunction AFTER resetting, then there is a breach or ground out somewhere. That would mean there is a broken or chafed wire either visually outside of the conduit or if not visually it's WITHIN the conduit.

You can't just look at a harness externally and go "yep, looks good".

I would start with the cam harness it's the most common break point that does affect other systems/modules.

Then I would check the Active Exhaust harnesses at the ends of the mufflers (another common break point). Then go FORWARD of the AE system and follow up up to the front of the car making sure there are no breaks or damages.

From there check all ground points in engine bay and do wiggle rear on all wiring connectors to make sure they ar ROUSH Ed I all the sudden and secure.

Check ALL fuses behind the passenger side kick panel AND those in the fuse box in the engine bay - look for any that may be loose or blown.

If you pull a connector, check the lins and are sure those are secure too.

Your issue is most likely going to be possibly related to a wiring harness or connector.

You can sit there until the sun goes down and keep resetting DTCs, but if they're coming back, there's an inherent problem that needs to be fixed.

@Cobra Jet Perfect, happy to do this, and that's my course of action. Problem is, I am unaware of where all the ground points are for the engine bay. Looking for a schematic diagram that lists them, but unable to find via Google thus far.

I have pulled and check every fuse in the passenger kick panel and the engine bay, all good there.

I unattached and reattached all major module harnesses in the engine bay and all were secured. I have also inspected all the connection points for the Active Exhaust and all good there (the exhaust valve cycling that occurred before failure was due to the driving mode changing when the Magneride system failed). I did notice that when my motor mount bushing (driver's side) crushed/broke, it appears the PCM/Main CANBUS loom of wires became detached off the block points but could not see any pinching/chafing. This leads me to believe that a ground wire is likely the culprit and is probably severed, loose, or chafing somewhere.

So tracking down the ground points is next. Any help on where to look in the engine bay and/or under the car would be appreciated whileI continue my research.

 

[voodoochild1990]

So, the I've had the car with the dealership coming up on the better part of a month now. They've ran multiple pinpoint tests, check every wiring harness and pins, as well as grounds and have decided the VDM has gone bad (I'm still flabbergasted this is the case as the vehicle has less than 40K miles on it).

I'm pushing them to perform the posted bulletin solution here earlier for the GT350R issue that resulted in this loss of communication with the VDM. I have doubts about purchasing a new one being the "easy fix" to this problem and given the intermittent nature of the drive modes going out/losing connection to the VDM, I'm still determined it's a ground short somewhere.

Anyone have any advice for the dealership? Also should I complain up the ladder to Ford Corporate about this hilariously premature failure for a critical module on this vehicle? I've never heard of the VDM completely failing, especially at such low mileage.

 

[kz]

Can you (or them) swap one from another GT350 (borrow from another owner or another car) and troubleshoot it this way ? Swapping VDM takes literally 5 minutes.

 

[voodoochild1990]

Can you (or them) swap one from another GT350 (borrow from another owner or another car) and troubleshoot it this way ? Swapping VDM takes literally 5 minutes.

I wish, but unfortunately I do not have someone near me to swap with, I personally think the dealer should do the swap at this point and see if that truly fixes it before charging me $1300 for parts and labor. I can’t even believe they charge “labor” for a module that takes 30 seconds to flash program and then 5 mins to install. MSRP for the module is just south of $900 so they think somehow adding $300/$400 in labor is required is beyond me.

If that truly is the case I’m going to buy a DSC controller and call it a day while b*tching at Ford corporate to comp me for the amount of premature wear parts I’ve had on this vehicle and the time, inconvenience and money it has cost me on a low mileage, supposedly, premium performance vehicle of theirs. Just utterly ridiculous as there nothing I could have done or did to cause this module failure and yet Ford is just shrugging their shoulders saying “Welp, it sucks to suck, that’ll be $$$”. Unacceptable.

 

[WItoTX]

Did you ever get any resolution to the problem?

Do you know where the VDM is physically located? (Is it really the box in the trunk?)

In for the update, as my car is throwing the U0122 code all of a sudden.

 

[Egparson202]

Typically the causes for this code to set are:

• Open power or ground to engine/powertrain control module ECM/PCM – most common
• Open in the CAN bus + circuit
• Open in the CAN bus - circuit
• Short to power in either CAN bus circuit
• Short to ground in either CAN bus circuit
• Rarely - faulty control module

Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/u0122
Copyright OBD-Codes.com

 

[Rapid Red]

I really don't know the answer. I would start at the beginning with the battery. Are you sure it was fully charged? If so, did you clear all the codes, only for them to return after a full 6 cycles?

That would be where I would start. If the abs, vcm, and all the other codes are still there after that, then it's probably beyond my pay grade. I would figure out what the cheapest thing to fix is, and start there. I would still Google all the codes, as well as search on this forum and TMO.

I'm still not convinced it's a VCM issue with all those other codes.

Agree here is a clue, "Circuit Voltage Below Threshold" several other voltage variances are mention throughout that list.

How old is the BAT, unless Auto zombie can load check a BAT, reading Vg is sort of useless.

For instance, a BAT can read 12vdc and not have the guts to turn the car over.

 

[KingKona]

Yeah, it's your battery.

It's pretty much always the battery. Especially with garage queens that barely get driven, and just sit there for days, weeks, and months at a time.

 

[WItoTX]

I wish, but unfortunately I do not have someone near me to swap with, I personally think the dealer should do the swap at this point and see if that truly fixes it before charging me $1300 for parts and labor. I can’t even believe they charge “labor” for a module that takes 30 seconds to flash program and then 5 mins to install. MSRP for the module is just south of $900 so they think somehow adding $300/$400 in labor is required is beyond me.

If that truly is the case I’m going to buy a DSC controller and call it a day while b*tching at Ford corporate to comp me for the amount of premature wear parts I’ve had on this vehicle and the time, inconvenience and money it has cost me on a low mileage, supposedly, premium performance vehicle of theirs. Just utterly ridiculous as there nothing I could have done or did to cause this module failure and yet Ford is just shrugging their shoulders saying “Welp, it sucks to suck, that’ll be $$$”. Unacceptable.

Any update on this? Did you chase down the U0122 code?

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