Had enough of aftermarket CAI & HIGH IAT's. So here's my fix.

Htk084

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Curious why don’t you just go with a closed box intake?





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WildHorse

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The first thing you need to do, regardless of what intake you choose, is open up some of the honeycomb grill on the drivers side.
Next, like another gentleman mentioned is to block off the area to the side by the radiator.
Yes Sir, I did all the aforementioned when I was running my gen 1 JLT.

Curious why don’t you just go with a closed box intake?
Like AIRAID? Not a fan.

BTW, this is the 2nd generation PMAS with the highly revised airbox.
 

CBass2288

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Next, like another gentleman mentioned is to block off the area to the side by the radiator. The Velosa widemouth works good, but you could definitely fab up something.
Could you elaborate on blocking off the area to the side by the radiator? Any pics would be super helpful!
 

OneFordGT

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Could you elaborate on blocking off the area to the side by the radiator? Any pics would be super helpful!
Read all of the post in this thread and then you would know. But let me help you out. Vellossa tube. It’s SUPER EASY to install. Read the whole post.
 

CBass2288

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Read all of the post in this thread and then you would know. But let me help you out. Vellossa tube. It’s SUPER EASY to install. Read the whole post.
I read it all. I wanted to try something else besides the Vellossa is all and was wondering if anyone had a pic of exactly what needed to be blocked off.
 

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Wasn’t thinking of the air aid necessarily but what about any of the other ones?

Yes Sir, I did all the aforementioned when I was running my gen 1 JLT.


Like AIRAID? Not a fan.

BTW, this is the 2nd generation PMAS with the highly revised airbox.
 
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Wasn’t thinking of the air aid necessarily but what about any of the other ones?
Steeda? As much as I love steeda.. not a fan of theirs. MAF signal is way to dirty for me :(
ANy other aftermarket close lid 'no tune' (which most seem to be) intake systems, looks purdy, but I'm not a fan of spending 300 bucks for a 5hp gain that a 50 buck K&N drop in filter can get on a stock airbox set up. Cheers.
 

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Yeah I know about the Steeda. No I was actually thinking about the Injen. You can run with the restrictor out for wider maf. Also cp-e makes a good closed box larger than stock maf and even provides a maf curve on their website.

Steeda? As much as I love steeda.. not a fan of theirs. MAF signal is way to dirty for me :(
ANy other aftermarket close lid 'no tune' (which most seem to be) intake systems, looks purdy, but I'm not a fan of spending 300 bucks for a 5hp gain that a 50 buck K&N drop in filter can get on a stock airbox set up. Cheers.
 

Htk084

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Interesting perspective lol, well good luck ur setup I’m really interested in if the pmas can be made better. It does make good power apparently

For me injen is for imports, translated to the GT. The CP-E Icebox I know next to nothing about. However they as you said provide some MAF calibration, that said, you might as well go to a send all the sauce tune.
 

Htk084

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Lol I hear ya. Yeah I was actually especially when I found out with Injen you can run larger maf. And Cpe is appealing too. Just lookin for a good closed box option but very few people go with these so it’s hard to tell how they are

The wife calls it unique haha. You thinking of going injen/cp-e route?
 

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Idaho2018GTPremium

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Science lesson time (I'm a mechanical engineer that does a lot of heat transfer):

The gold reflective tape is used to block only radiant heat. So, it can block the heat radiated from hot surfaces (like the engine, headers, radiator, etc.) that are in direct view of the intake. Think of the heat you feel on your face when you are near a very hot surface. While it helps, gold reflective tape will not provide any insulative benefit to combat conduction and convection. Gold reflective tape is only one piece of the puzzle, so to speak.

The other parts of heat transfer issues for an intake are conduction and convection. Conduction is heat transferring from one side of a surface to the other (hot on one side, cool on the other, heat travels from the hot side to the cool side). Convection is due to hot air (fluid) movement around the intake, causing heat to transfer to the intake due to the fluid movement.

For both conduction and convection, you'll need actual insulation to slow the heat transfer down. For the high temperatures seen in engine bays, you'd need something like cellular glass or fiberglass insulation. Don't use a foam type insulator. A thin layer, such as 1/2", plus an outer layer of gold reflective tape, will solve much of the heat soak issues.

If the intake doesn't form a good seal on the underside of the hood, however, the intake will draw in hot engine air and your IATs will be high no matter how well you reduce the radiant, conduction, and convection issues.
 

GregO

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I’m just an old farm boy that reads a lot and spends little time watching TV.
My comments were intended to dispel the myth about the color black and heat mitigation.
Without going deep in the weeds over this stuff blacks effectiveness is due to carbon and graphite.
It’s a know fact that black tires run cooler because of their carbon rich black pigment (again it’s the carbon used to make the black color) Same applies to belts and hoses etc.

Wikipedia “Carbon Black”
 

Mikthehun1

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Science lesson time (I'm a mechanical engineer that does a lot of heat transfer):

The gold reflective tape is used to block only radiant heat. So, it can block the heat radiated from hot surfaces (like the engine, headers, radiator, etc.) that are in direct view of the intake. Think of the heat you feel on your face when you are near a very hot surface. While it helps, gold reflective tape will not provide any insulative benefit to combat conduction and convection. Gold reflective tape is only one piece of the puzzle, so to speak.

The other parts of heat transfer issues for an intake are conduction and convection. Conduction is heat transferring from one side of a surface to the other (hot on one side, cool on the other, heat travels from the hot side to the cool side). Convection is due to hot air (fluid) movement around the intake, causing heat to transfer to the intake due to the fluid movement.

For both conduction and convection, you'll need actual insulation to slow the heat transfer down. For the high temperatures seen in engine bays, you'd need something like cellular glass or fiberglass insulation. Don't use a foam type insulator. A thin layer, such as 1/2", plus an outer layer of gold reflective tape, will solve much of the heat soak issues.

If the intake doesn't form a good seal on the underside of the hood, however, the intake will draw in hot engine air and your IATs will be high no matter how well you reduce the radiant, conduction, and convection issues.
MechE in another life here; should we bring up Newton's Law of Cooling :giggle:?
 

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