The first thing you need to do, regardless of what intake you choose, is open up some of the honeycomb grill on the drivers side.
Yes Sir, I did all the aforementioned when I was running my gen 1 JLT.Next, like another gentleman mentioned is to block off the area to the side by the radiator.
Like AIRAID? Not a fan.Curious why don’t you just go with a closed box intake?
Could you elaborate on blocking off the area to the side by the radiator? Any pics would be super helpful!Next, like another gentleman mentioned is to block off the area to the side by the radiator. The Velosa widemouth works good, but you could definitely fab up something.
I read it all. I wanted to try something else besides the Vellossa is all and was wondering if anyone had a pic of exactly what needed to be blocked off.Read all of the post in this thread and then you would know. But let me help you out. Vellossa tube. It’s SUPER EASY to install. Read the whole post.
Steeda? As much as I love steeda.. not a fan of theirs. MAF signal is way to dirty for me :(Wasn’t thinking of the air aid necessarily but what about any of the other ones?
Steeda? As much as I love steeda.. not a fan of theirs. MAF signal is way to dirty for me :(
ANy other aftermarket close lid 'no tune' (which most seem to be) intake systems, looks purdy, but I'm not a fan of spending 300 bucks for a 5hp gain that a 50 buck K&N drop in filter can get on a stock airbox set up. Cheers.
For me injen is for imports, translated to the GT. The CP-E Icebox I know next to nothing about. However they as you said provide some MAF calibration, that said, you might as well go to a send all the sauce tune.
The wife calls it unique haha. You thinking of going injen/cp-e route?
I know.. being the guinea pig isn't appealing haha. I can't even find reviews on those two.
MechE in another life here; should we bring up Newton's Law of Cooling ?Science lesson time (I'm a mechanical engineer that does a lot of heat transfer):
The gold reflective tape is used to block only radiant heat. So, it can block the heat radiated from hot surfaces (like the engine, headers, radiator, etc.) that are in direct view of the intake. Think of the heat you feel on your face when you are near a very hot surface. While it helps, gold reflective tape will not provide any insulative benefit to combat conduction and convection. Gold reflective tape is only one piece of the puzzle, so to speak.
The other parts of heat transfer issues for an intake are conduction and convection. Conduction is heat transferring from one side of a surface to the other (hot on one side, cool on the other, heat travels from the hot side to the cool side). Convection is due to hot air (fluid) movement around the intake, causing heat to transfer to the intake due to the fluid movement.
For both conduction and convection, you'll need actual insulation to slow the heat transfer down. For the high temperatures seen in engine bays, you'd need something like cellular glass or fiberglass insulation. Don't use a foam type insulator. A thin layer, such as 1/2", plus an outer layer of gold reflective tape, will solve much of the heat soak issues.
If the intake doesn't form a good seal on the underside of the hood, however, the intake will draw in hot engine air and your IATs will be high no matter how well you reduce the radiant, conduction, and convection issues.