Had enough of aftermarket CAI & HIGH IAT's. So here's my fix.

Discussion in 'V8 5.0L Engine / Mods: Bolt-ons, Exhaust, Tuning' started by WildHorse, May 18, 2020.

  1. WildHorse

    WildHorse N/A or GO HOME

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    So after trying everything to combat high IAT's with aftermarket CAI's (cai.. haha), and not wanted to spend more moolah on another close box CAI (like airaid) I decided to modify what I had. So his is what I did.. JLT elbow (shortened to right before the MAF housing), rubber coupler, stock 17 box, K&N drop in, removed the forward silencer, removed the charcoal filter, sanded & contoured the inside of the lid Works pretty fricken awesome. Always within 5c of ambient when cruising, idling today (27°c ambient, in never climbed above 36°c (97°f). That's just 9°c increase, awesome. Better than the conical air filter JLT CAI including 17 thousands different ways to keep the heat out. The plastic JLT tub was just to thin and heat soak was crazy, took forever to cool down once moving as well, likely cause the air coming in from the grill goes under the conical filter, hits the back of the box, goes up, then finds its way out the hood vent, gap between the JLT box and fender, etc,. etc. Raced a couple of my favorite targets last night, I'd say it's making more power. Quite a bit more actually. I'm thoroughly convinced it's the ELBOW that's responsible for making power, and the straight shot of airflow past the MAF from the stock lid, plus the K&N drop in is a proven 5-6 hp gain. Same tune, just redid the MAF scaling for the stock housing. So, lower IAT's, better throttle response, and at the much more horsepower than the stock setup. Follow me for more redneck recipes. Cheers.
    98354729_3000180583410220_8966157273109889024_o.jpg
     
  2. Nate_V8

    Nate_V8 Well-Known Member

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    Got a pic of what you did to the lid?
     
  3. OP
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    WildHorse

    WildHorse N/A or GO HOME

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    I can post a pic sure. Check back tomorrow. :)
     
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  4. dn1984

    dn1984 Well-Known Member

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    I've thought about just buying one of the elbows I see on American Muscle, even though they're overpriced. I like the cleaner look too. I've always gone back to the stock box whenever I tried aftermarket intakes. The PMAS I had on my old car was a huge disappointment because it sounded awesome but made my car about a half second slower in the 1/4 mile after sitting in the staging lanes. IATs kill power like crazy
     
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  5. Brian@BMVK

    [email protected] Well-Known Member

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    If you're going to use the stock 15-17 lid, why not use the Mishimoto tube that would match or outperform that and avoid hacking up the JLT?
     
  6. Mikthehun1

    Mikthehun1 Well-Known Member

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    1st you DIY your muffler delete, now the intake. What's next a homemade blower :giggle:?

    blower.jpg
     
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  7. kevinvan6000

    kevinvan6000 Active Member

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    See if you can grab an 18+ air box lid. Should transition into the elbow a little better than the 15-17 one.
     
  8. OP
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    WildHorse

    WildHorse N/A or GO HOME

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    Cause I didn't wanna buy another aftermarket one.
    Cause I'm not a mechanical engineer haha. But I will be porting the stock 17 manny next winter, and my buddy has a 3D printer and he'll try to fab up some 1" spacers to go under it. If it works, great. If not, great.
    If I could find one reasonable price, I would. But the peeps seem to think it's worth it's weight in gold.

    Here's a old pic of the lid. Smoothed out the exit a bit.
    20200519_113523.jpg
     
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  9. OP
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    WildHorse

    WildHorse N/A or GO HOME

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    You can see her the transition is v-good. At least in my opinion.
    20200519_132646.jpg
     
  10. 16Fastback

    16Fastback RMR 8985

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    I just put the Roush 18+ lid on my 16.1-2 * above ambient while cruising. 20200517_103910_resize_31.jpg
     
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  11. Bluemustang

    Bluemustang Well-Known Member

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    I fixed my IAT problems! Hahah
    And JLT to boot. IAT stays between 10-15 over ambient idling and a stop (tested in high 80s ambient temps).

    My fix was 1) 15-17 Velossa Tech ram air big mouth, driver side 2) redneck airbox fix, weather stripping around the top of edges.
    Before it would run 30-40 over, only dropping once I start moving and giving throttle. Now it rises very slowly and stays within a decent range.

    Personally I don't think most people understand what's happening when their IAT shoots through the roof.
     
  12. OP
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    WildHorse

    WildHorse N/A or GO HOME

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    Yes Sir. Different solutions for the same problem. MIne is just one, and I feel it's a v-good solution. I also like the stock box cause in my uneducated opinion I think it messes less with the airflow inside the engine bay, and keeps the vent directly above doing what it's supposed to do.
     
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  13. Bluemustang

    Bluemustang Well-Known Member

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    Glad it's working for you man. IMO one of the biggest issues is backwash from the radiator getting shoved into the airpath. My redneck weather stripping mod helped a little bit in most instances. But after I got the Velossa Tech that's when I noticed the real difference. Prior to doing this, when the fans would kick on my IAT would skyrocket. I tried the closed box thing too. The air that got shoved into the CAI path just got trapped in there by the closed lid. IAT rose even more.
     
  14. Bluemustang

    Bluemustang Well-Known Member

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    I didn't come up with this idea btw - @[email protected] was the one who turned me onto it.
     
  15. OP
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    WildHorse

    WildHorse N/A or GO HOME

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    And I'm always happy when fellow Mustang owners find creative solutions that WORK. JUst wish most of these aftermarket companies would dyno there products with the hood CLOSED at normal operating temps. Hood open with a fan blowing over it proves notta haha. If the timing gets cut 3° from say 21° cause of high IAT's.. that's like a 25 hp loss right there.
     
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