GT350 Cutting out on track

[11GT50]

Over the last two track days (Saturday and this afternoon) my car has started cutting out. It's fine on the out lap and the first two or three hot laps but then gradually starts cutting out and I end up parking it about half way through the session. By the end of today I made it two and a half laps and barely managed to get it back to the pits. It didn't show a CEL until the last session and that was a flashing P0300 in Track Addict - but that code is not currently stored and did not show up by the time I got home to read the code with my computer. The problem is, it drove home just fine and I can wring it out on the street and not replicate the problem. So far this is only occurring on track and after the car has some heat in it. At this point I don't think it will do any good to take it to a dealer. How in the world do I troubleshoot this?

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[JAJ]

Hmmm... turn 6 at the Ridge. There's a TSB that might apply here: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/attachments/19-2090-pdf.350830/

 

[11GT50]

Indeed it is. I live 15 minutes from the track.

Thank you. Any idea how loose it gets? If I lift the car up tomorrow will I be able to reach in and feel whether or not it's loose by hand?

 

[JAJ]

Unfortunately, the nut in question is the tailshaft nut on the transmission, and it's sandwiched in the space inside the U-joint at the front of the driveshaft. To access it, you have to remove the exhaust system and undo the driveshaft.

It's the nut that's partially obscured - the one with the big red arrow.

 

[honeybadger]

Have you done a full DCT scan? It could be that there are more codes stored in the computer that the app didn't alert you to.

 

[11GT50]

Unfortunately, the nut in question is the tailshaft nut on the transmission, and it's sandwiched in the space inside the U-joint at the front of the driveshaft. To access it, you have to remove the exhaust system and undo the driveshaft.It's the nut that's partially obscured - the one with the big red arrow.

I know where it's at. I just wasn't sure it is was something that would be obviously lose when I got in there. Either way, at that point it's easy to put a wrench on it and see.

Have you done a full DCT scan? It could be that there are more codes stored in the computer that the app didn't alert you to.

DCT scan? I used Forscan and it polled all of the modules and didn't show any errors.

At this point the car is going to have to sit for at least a week. Right now it's time to focus on the Lemons race this weekend!

 

[Tank]

P0300 is a random misfire code.

See here for possible causes:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...re-at-your-own-risk.89612/page-6#post-2373331

 

[honeybadger]

I know where it's at. I just wasn't sure it is was something that would be obviously lose when I got in there. Either way, at that point it's easy to put a wrench on it and see.



DCT scan? I used Forscan and it polled all of the modules and didn't show any errors.

At this point the car is going to have to sit for at least a week. Right now it's time to focus on the Lemons race this weekend!

Ahh, I menat DTC. Whoops. If it's not throwing any codes, it could be what JAJ mentioned. I also got a random misfire code due to a bad connection on one of my coil packs. Only code it threw was misfire. Never a particular cylinder. Ended up being a pinched wire that eventually broke leading to the 2nd cylinder coil pack.

 

[11GT50]

I also got a random misfire code due to a bad connection on one of my coil packs. Only code it threw was misfire. Never a particular cylinder. Ended up being a pinched wire that eventually broke leading to the 2nd cylinder coil pack.

I will look at this too. I have this same question posted on TMO as well and one of the members suggested hand over hand inspecting the entire engine harness.

 

[honeybadger]

I will look at this too. I have this same question posted on TMO as well and one of the members suggested hand over hand inspecting the entire engine harness.

It's a fairly common failure point on a tracked car due to the heat. At least in my case, I've been through 3 harnesses and I was never able to find the issue visually. Had to do continuity tests with a multimeter or the old jiggle test. In the case of my bad coil plug, a jiggle test would cause it to almost die while idling.

 

[pilotgore]

It's a fairly common failure point on a tracked car due to the heat. At least in my case, I've been through 3 harnesses and I was never able to find the issue visually. Had to do continuity tests with a multimeter or the old jiggle test. In the case of my bad coil plug, a jiggle test would cause it to almost die while idling.

Sounds expensive.

 

[honeybadger]

Sounds expensive.

Everything with HB is

 

[Dominant1]

I solved my P0300 code, which would show under wot loads only. I did a crank relearn using my SCT X4 tuner device. The procedure is simple. If you don't have a tuner you will have to take to your dealer to get it done.

 

[72&18]

One thing I learned at the track attack was these cars don't like the mashing of the petal. The car would hesitate and you would have to lift and then back on the gas to reset. The instructors kept saying to ease into the throttle.

 

[pilotgore]

Everything with HB is

“Honey Badger don’t care.” Sucks for you though.

One thing I learned at the track attack was these cars don't like the mashing of the petal. The car would hesitate and you would have to lift and then back on the gas to reset. The instructors kept saying to ease into the throttle.

.... that doesn’t sound normal. Im guessing they’re referring more to smooth throttle and brake applications to smoothly transfer weight from front to back in order to maintain traction and not upset the balance of the car. I may be wrong but I haven’t had any experience bogging down in any of the GT350(R)’s I’ve driven hard.

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