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It's most likely the thermostat. I've had several of them stick open enough that the car won't get up to minimum temperature and set that code. It's an easy job to replace it.

Download ForScan and get yourself an OBD port interface. You'll be able to operate the pump and do as mentioned above. The dealership should be able to operate the pump using the IDS system.

I suspect you are looking at Gross Vehicle Weight- which is the maximum weight of the car plus its maximum payload (fuel, other fluids, passengers, cargo).

I've hit the rev limiter in 4th gear with 143 showing on the digital display going down the front straight at The Ridge Motorsports Park.

Cortex may still offer one with their calibration.

I had an experience similar to@BoomBoy. The DSC controller didn't feel particularly great with the OEM 350 springs and porpoised excessively over undulations in the road. R springs, shocks & struts and the R calibration were considerably better. I used the controller for about six months before...

I don't change pads between track & street. Raybestos ST45 front, ST43 rear. They're dusty and can be noisy - I don't care.

Make/Model/engine/trans/packages: 2017 GT350 Track/Course: The Ridge Motorsports Park - Shelton, WA Best Lap Time: 1:53.25 Brake Pads: Raybestos ST45 front, ST43 rear Tires (Size & Model): 305 square Goodyear Supercar 3 Suspension: 350R springs & rear bar Other Mods: Vorshlag camber plates

Can't argue with Jamal. I assumed it was just a stud with a through-hole and in such a case the lanyard would be completely useless. So I took the nut off to have a look....

I'm not entirely sure that's what it's for. In the event of a crash a 6 oz piece of plastic coming off the hood is going to be rather trivial compared to other parts that may be flying around. Even if it did hit the windshield it's likely just going to bounce off. Also, look at where it's...

That would be the one.

I have a number of them ground nearly flat from a dip coming out of a turn at my local track. I installed the ZL1 Addons splitter protectors last year and several of those are getting worn down too. I suppose I could avoid the dip, but where's the fun in that?

Any better in what regard? The factory pads are actually pretty good - aside from being a bit dusty.

And the spring should be removed and not replaced on the 15-18s. The pedal is smooth and not stiff without the spring. My feeling is that the Steeda spring is just an easy way for them to make a few bucks. It's not needed.

On the 350 but I'd bet the basic car is the same. I kicked that spring to the curb on my S197 GT too. It's there to provide a "comfortable" pedal - that's it.

The clutch pedal isn't that stiff with the spring removed altogether. Neither factory spring or the Steeda spring are needed. And yes. I'm aware that this is a 4 year old thread revival.

About a week. Dropped it off last Friday afternoon for a Monday appointment.

Car is back from the dealer with a brand new engine harness courtesy of Ford Motor Company. Wiring to the fuel pressure sensor looks noticeably larger too.

You may look at the Ferodo DS2500s. I ordered a couple sets from GT350brakes.com before I moved to Raybestos pads.

They're $275-$300 each.