GT with PP manual driving tips

[NoVaGT]

Rev matching I've learned so far:

4th gear, 3500 rpm at 55 mph
3rd gear, 4000 rpm at 50 mph
3rd gear, 3000 rpm at 40 mph
2nd gear, 4000 rpm at 30 mph
2nd gear, 3000 rpm at 20 mph


Just barely over 2000 miles. Still getting familiar with the different rev matches.

I hit 6th gear close to 50 mph. Anything less than that is sluggish unless it's open flat road, and that's not Central Texas much.

"Rev matches"??????

LOL. Wut?

Methinks you're confused about something.

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[Zelek]

"Rev matches"??????

LOL. Wut?

Methinks you're confused about something.

Confused? You don't rev match/downshift coming up to a stop light/stop sign/sharp corner when you can?

 

[NoVaGT]

Confused? You don't rev match/downshift coming up to a stop light/stop sign/sharp corner when you can?

No. I go into neutral and brake to a stop.

If I'm driving fast, I hell-and-toe down shift.

There's no specific RPMs to do anything at.

 

[tom_sprecher]

The only thing that bothers me about lugging and engine (rpm<1000) is the low oil pressure developed at that engine speed. Low oil pressure + high load = bearing wear.

 

[Stuntman]

The only thing that bothers me about lugging and engine (rpm<1000) is the low oil pressure developed at that engine speed. Low oil pressure + high load = bearing wear.

Can't sustain that much load <1,000rpm to really cause a problem before the engine stalls so... still probably not a concern.

 

[Zelek]

No. I go into neutral and brake to a stop.

If I'm driving fast, I hell-and-toe down shift.

There's no specific RPMs to do anything at.

Actually, if you want to jerk your car around or make it lunge forward, yes, there are specific RPM's to do things at.

I was simply stating downshifting coming to a stop using engine braking rather than shifting to neutral and braking. Either way isn't wrong, it's just the first option tends to make your pads and rotors last a bit longer over time. It's definitely not saving gas that much.

 

[LICobra]

I rev match when slowing and heel/toe when the appropriate, but i never put the trans in neutral and coast to a stop.

 

[NoVaGT]

Actually, if you want to jerk your car around or make it lunge forward, yes, there are specific RPM's to do things at.

I was simply stating downshifting coming to a stop using engine braking rather than shifting to neutral and braking. Either way isn't wrong, it's just the first option tends to make your pads and rotors last a bit longer over time. It's definitely not saving gas that much.

No, there are not specific RPMs to rev-match at. There are RPM differences between gears. You can rev-match a down shift at the redline, or at 2200 RPMs, almost anywhere in the rev-range.

Engine braking is hard on the trans, so go ahead if you have the $$ to replace it. Pads and rotors are significantly cheaper, and made specifically for slowing/stopping the car......which your trans in not.

 

[NoVaGT]

I rev match when slowing and heel/toe when the appropriate, but i never put the trans in neutral and coast to a stop.

You're saying you're heel-n-toeing down-shifts up to every stop sign/light, slower moving traffic? If not, what way is there other than neutral?

 

[Zelek]

No, there are not specific RPMs to rev-match at. There are RPM differences between gears. You can rev-match a down shift at the redline, or at 2200 RPMs, almost anywhere in the rev-range.

Engine braking is hard on the trans, so go ahead if you have the $$ to replace it. Pads and rotors are significantly cheaper, and made specifically for slowing/stopping the car......which your trans in not.

It's not hard on the transmission if you're doing it correctly. Key word is correctly. Automatic cars engine brake every time you let off the gas pedal. It's the engine doing the slowing down, not so much the transmission. Now if you jerk the car constantly and don't rev match, then you're going to be replacing your transmission sooner.

Yes, pads and rotors are cheap, but why not engine brake when you can? For the times you cannot engine brake due to a situation like a light changing or a traffic stopping unexpectedly, shifting to neutral is fine.

In the end, it's your car and drive it how you want. I was just simply stating what I do and why I do it. I would say majority of drivers all just shift into neutral and coast to a light. I like to have fun with my manual transmission which is why I got it.

 

[NoVaGT]

It's not hard on the transmission if you're doing it correctly. Key word is correctly. Automatic cars engine brake every time you let off the gas pedal. It's the engine doing the slowing down, not so much the transmission. Now if you jerk the car constantly and don't rev match, then you're going to be replacing your transmission sooner.

Yes, pads and rotors are cheap, but why not engine brake when you can? For the times you cannot engine brake due to a situation like a light changing or a traffic stopping unexpectedly, shifting to neutral is fine.

In the end, it's your car and drive it how you want. I was just simply stating what I do and why I do it. I would say majority of drivers all just shift into neutral and coast to a light. I like to have fun with my manual transmission which is why I got it.

Right on. Enjoy driving your MT.

FWIW, engine braking doesn't hurt the transmission at all if done correctly. I had bad info, and checked it myself.

 

[JuRuKi]

Anyone else getting a clunk sound after shifting to 6th gear?

 

[accel]

.

Aha. You have 3.31 final drive ratio... what are your rpms at 6th?

I got 2000 rpms at 70 mph with 3.7.

 

[16s550]

From my experience the transmission likes to be shifted at a higher RPM usually above 2000. If I'm not worried about noise I shift at about 2500 2700. But if I want to keep her quiet I'll shift around 1800 and it seems like second doesn't always like that. Also the performance pack the gears are rather short so sometimes when you're getting onto a busy road makes it easier to just bring the RPM's up to even $3,000 to shift smoothly. Also I would recommend a short shifter braided clutch line Steeda spring and BG or Amsoil synchromesh fluid

 

[16s550]

When this clutch takes a dump I want to go with the twin disc new flywheel and all the other crap that goes with it.

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