GT PP 0-60 times.

[evo8904]

What rpm would you have to hit in 2nd to hit 60mph? Sorry, I am new to mustangs. However, having to shift into 3rd to hit 60mph hurts your time.

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[Tim Hilliard]

Simmah Down Everyone :lol:

I agree calculated it should be 61MPH in second. In reality you have to consider a certain amount of tire slippage. 58 -59 is right in the 2% window which to me sounds real.

The speedo is very accurate, typically the error increases exponentially as speed increases but "I know a Guy" that saw 115 on the speedo and 112 on GPS. That is damn accurate. Speed is calculated off of the trans tailshaft typically. Don't know what the track app uses for it's speed input though.

I wish Ford would have had a closer ratio trans because first is only good for drag racing. A couple hundred RPM more would have been nice as well.

 

[Sasuketr]

I agree with you on that one, the first gear is ridiculously short. I almost start on 2nd gear most of the time, even on second gear in sport mode or track mode if you press the gas pedal little hard the tires get loose. My buddy has a ls7 z06 corvette and that beast reaches 60 mph on first gear. Just Damn!

 

[Dave2013M3]

Dave get over yourself, seriously. We all understand what the numbers say and what they should mean.

However, more than likely it is based off the front wheel which is smaller. Which doesn't calculate into your math. I will check to see what my speedo goes to later today under the engineering mode.

I will also note that the to speed in 5th both on a dyno and speedo doesn't go past 142ish.

I agree most likely it's speedo error but some other things just aren't adding up

I am over myself, I think you need to look in a mirror when you said this. Math don't lie man...believe what you want. I excuse myself from this thread.

Dave

 

[DivineStrike]

I am over myself, I think you need to look in a mirror when you said this. Math don't lie man...believe what you want. I excuse myself from this thread.

Dave

Sure thing bud, deflect all you want. Yes math doesn't lie but you don't have the right info in the equation for the track app. I already agreed with you on the speedo error. Anyhow this is a small little test I did.

I didn't feel like typing it all back up so I took screenshots since it wouldn't let me post earlier.

The app I selected was 0 to 30

 

[Mustang_Owner]

I retried the 0-60 with launch control enabled at 3000 RPM, 3500 RPM, 4000 RPM, and 4500 RPM. 0-60 didn't seem to make much of a difference at any RPM (tried at least 3 attempts per RPM), but 3000 may have been slightly better since it had the least tire slip.

3000 RPM: 5.3 seconds
3500 RPM: 5.6 seconds
4000 RPM: 5.6 seconds
4500 RPM: 5.5 seconds

I was able to get 5.2 seconds without launch control by starting at 2500 RPM. The best results were when I shift around 6000 RPM and start off at 2500 RPM before quickly releasing the clutch (less tire spin). I think the main issue is that when I was shifting after 6400 RPM (best shift point), it takes a few hundredths of a second to physically move the shifter into second and that time ends up making me shift after 6750 RPM in reality. If you shift at 6750 RPM or higher, the power is lost. So as soon as you see the tachometer reach around 6000 RPM, it's time to tell your hand to start to shift as you might just make the shift around 6400 RPM if you are lucky.

As far as the track-apps 0-60 accelerometer not stopping the run until you reach 60 MPH and you need to shift into 3rd to get it to 60 MPH, I would say most of the runs require you to be in 3rd to get the track-apps 60 MPH run to end. On one of the attempts, I think I hit 60 MPH while in 2nd, but the time was not really better due to wheel slip or waiting too long to shift. So I still have to agree that to get the track-apps 60 MPH time to be reported, it wants you to be in 3rd.

The lag between 3000 and 5000 RPM seemed to happen was when I was working the clutch like I did on my old car. The Ford ECM might have some type of issue when you are working the clutch hard. For example, if I hold the RPM around 5000, then slowly let of the clutch while listening for tire-spin, I can figure out about how much clutch to use to maximize traction while keeping the engine at it's peak torque. Of course this burns the clutch, but it does maximize acceleration when I do it right. When I try this in the 2015 GT PP, I noticed that there is a loss of power between 2500-5000 RPM compared to just letting the clutch fully out from the beginning in first. Not sure why this is the case, but I would think Ford doesn't want to replace too many clutches.

Here's what the shift point should be from the HP/Torque graph:

In case somebody wants to repeat my experiment, here's the steps I followed:

For launch control to work, select the checkbox for launch control and note the RPM you set after pressing OK (if you don't press OK, it won't take the setting). To test it, you need to floor the gas pedal quickly. In other words, if you take too long (few seconds) to floor the gas pedal, it will cancel launch control on that run. If you hit the gas pedal to the floor within less than ~1 second, the RPM will hold at whatever you had set it for. Keep the gas pedal fully depressed.

Go into the 0-60 acceleration timer and select ok to start. Within a few seconds after clicking "ok", while keeping the gas pedal floored, quickly let off the clutch and wait until around 6000 RPM to hit the clutch again and quickly shift into second. Don't slowly let off the clutch (this should work, but not sure why it is not working), but let it off quickly. Also, keep your foot fully pressed on the gas pedal during your gear shifting or you will lose power. I thought I would get more power if I shifted at the redline, but when shifting at at the redline, the 0-60 was best case around 5.6 seconds and typically worse than that. When shifting at 6000, the best case time was 5.2 seconds.

Make sure to turn off traction control, A/C, and keep the car in track mode. Try not to smoke the tires or you lose acceleration also.

When I was trying to do a 'quick-shift' with the factory shift knob, I broke it off! I was able to still drive the car back to the repair center since it broke off while in 3rd gear and they fixed it. However, within 5 minutes of it being fixed after I drove out of the dealer, it broke again. The service guy said there is a screw that holds the assembly together and it had come loose. I asked him if he checked if the threads were stripped and I needed a new screw and he said no, it's fine. However, I suspect he did not closely examine the threads and I probably need a new screw. I'll see how it goes over the next few days, but now I'm worried to aggressively shift the stick for fear it breaks at a bad time (like when the service shop is closed or I'm at work).

For more info and pictuers on the broken factory shifter, see this thread:

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?p=405652#post405652

 

[stoli]

I set my redline to 7200 via tuner and was I was able to get a 4.9 today, could have done better if I spent some more time working on the launch and I only tried Sport mode w/traction still on....

 

[SilverSpoon09]

Wow...

 

[evo8904]

I barely drove the car today and the stick is breaking again. The first sign of an issue is when I can go into reverse without pulling up on the part marked below as (1). The next sign of the issue is when 3rd gear is slightly difficult to get into. Finally, the stick just falls off and the car gets stuck in whatever gear I was last in. I will take it back to the dealer tomorrow for the 3rd attempt at a repair. It has not fallen off yet, so back to the dealer after I check in at work.

That is ridiculous! I'm will be installing an aftermarket shifter.

 

[DivineStrike]

Lol 0-60 times? Let's link your personal thread on this issue lol so I can stop looking at this thing, thinking people are actually posting times haha

 

[Tommy V]

Guys In my opinion it might not be the speedo or the tac, I really think the trac app relys on info from the front wheel speed sensors which is tied into the abs and trac control.It could easily be enough depending on how the ecu gets all this info.Im pretty confident these cars will run mid 4 sec to 60 with real gear to test them.Im not very confident on how accurate the trac app is, just my opinion.

 

[Mustang_Owner]

I just repeated the calculation that was posted earlier to show the RPM versus MPH in each gear with 3.73 rear end. I found a discrepancy between the front tire size max MPH in 2nd gear and the rear tire size max MPH in 2nd gear.

It looks like if the track-apps is based on the front tire size, you can only hit 59 MPH in 2nd. If the track-apps is based on the rear tire size, you can hit just over 61 MPH in 2nd. Looks like track-apps is based on the front tire size (or an average of front and rear):

Calculation using rear tire size/gears/RPM:

Calculation using front tire size/gears/RPM:

So that seems to be a good explanation on why you can't hit 60 MPH in 2nd. Note the calculator I used was found here: http://www.f-body.org/gears/

 

[15GTBEN]

Okay, I am seeing a consistent 4.8 and best of 4.7 with my bone stock non PP base 3.31 GT. The non PP is lighter, 3.31's have better traction and go well past 60 in 2nd, I also know how to drive
Easing off idle and no launch, shifting fast but lifting. I shift around 67-6800 rpm.
3.31 gear ftw, lol!

 

[evo8904]

Okay, I am seeing a consistent 4.8 and best of 4.7 with my bone stock non PP base 3.31 GT. The non PP is lighter, 3.31's have better traction and go well past 60 in 2nd, I also know how to drive
Easing off idle and no launch, shifting fast but lifting. I shift around 67-6800 rpm.
3.31 gear ftw, lol!

I was thinking about changing my 3.73 gears for 3.31 gears.

 

[15GTBEN]

I was thinking about changing my 3.73 gears for 3.31 gears.

Yeah, I'm personally not a fan of the 3.73's for the MT-82. From my experience they did not live up to the hype. I paid to have them swapped in to my 12' brembo 5.0 from the 3.31's and ended up regretting it.:tsk:
Compared to the 3.31's, I guess they feel a little snappier and get you to your powerband quicker; however, at the cost of less traction (especially when modded), narrower powerband, less mpg, more shifting, having to shift into 5th in the 1/4, lower top speed...

If you are planning on going FI or making big power, I'd definitely swap in the 3.31's! For bone stock or basic bolt-on's (tune, catless...) 3.31 or 3.55's would be my choice.

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