Coastal-Mach

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S550VIN54

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Victor,

I had the same issues as you did with my gt350 so I am hoping the alignment is the issue as I didn't hear anyone mention that in the reviews except Matt F. from "smoking Tires". Not a fan of the cup2's for street use either but that's the way it comes. I am definitely changing them out to the Mich ps4's when mine arrives.
 
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VictorH

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Victor,

I had the same issues as you did with my gt350 so I am hoping the alignment is the issue as I didn't hear anyone mention that in the reviews except Matt F. from "smoking Tires". Not a fan of the cup2's for street use either but that's the way it comes. I am definitely changing them out to the Mich ps4's when mine arrives.
I've updated my original post. Checked my front toe this afternoon, I have 1/8" of toe out, that is a lot. It's visible to the eye just standing over the front tires on either side.
 

Maldelver

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The Michelin PS4s ride a ton better on the highways than cup 2s especially here in Western NC
 

Cobra Jet

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@VictorH

Nice Mach 1, congrats! Also, Granger Team rocks! Such great folks and always willing to help on these forums.

Could you offer any insight as to how you do your own alignments? It would defintley benefit some of us here.
 

Zelek

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I've updated my original post. Checked my front toe this afternoon, I have 1/8" of toe out, that is a lot. It's visible to the eye just standing over the front tires on either side.
Can't believe it was off that bad from the factory. Yikes.
 
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VictorH

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@VictorH

Nice Mach 1, congrats! Also, Granger Team rocks! Such great folks and always willing to help on these forums.

Could you offer any insight as to how you do your own alignments? It would defintley benefit some of us here.
Three different methods each has their own pluses and minuses.
Keep in mind I adjust my camber for the track, generally I run -1.5 camber in front on the street and -3 on the track on my prior street-track car. My understanding is the Mustang likes about the same. You can't just get an alignment and change the camber to what you want. The tie rods, being mounted at the front of the spindle, when you tilt the strut in (to get the negative camber you want) you create more toe-out which you have to adjust back in, otherwise you get tremendous inner tire wear. So here's what you can do.
1) If you have an alignment shop you like and they'll let you watch, mark the tie rods for street , with street camber and then with camber plates (usually just max for my use) to max, mark the tie rods at max camber also with proper toe-in. In general, this is about 1/4 turn in (pull the tires back in).
2) Use Toe plates to adjust toe. Commonly available from multiple vendors and big names too like Jegs or Summit. Unfortunately you only can measure total toe this way, and it's possible to have more toe on one side than the other and still have correct total toe. Need to adjust each side equally and be careful.
3) Use a laser level (line or point laser) or better yet a laser plane to measure toe on each tire .front and back. Mach 1 track is 62.3" front and 64.9" rear. If you set up your laser plane to be say 2" away from the rear tire and 2" + (64.9-62.3=2.6") 2.6" = 4.6" from the front tire you have a parallel plane to both the front and rear tires. You then measure the toe by tape measure from the front of the rim compared to the rear of the rim, to the laser plane or line, at the midline/centerline. This method is quite accurate if you are careful and will give you even toe from side to side. Takes some time but worthwhile.
 

saleen367

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Toe out, from my experience has been the factory alignment from Ford for PP2 and Mach I TP.
 

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traxiii

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