getting IATs down on a centri

[andrewtac]

Talked to several folks on here, looking at meth at some point; that will be a separate thread.

Paxton setup, ran with a 3.375 pulley, saw 160 IATs at the track. Starting temps were 110-120 with ECT just under 200, hot in Texas, and super long staging lines at the track. Three things I was thinking about 1) Engine cover - I like the look of it, but likely keeping heat in and dead weight 2) Hood liner - wasn't sure on this, dead weight and assuming it is keeping hood in the engine compartment and not allowing it to radiate through the hood. Hood was cool to touch while engine was still very hot. Any negative effects of removing the liner, like paint getting ruined? 3) 170 reische thermostat, seems several do this. Maybe it will help with IATs in a round about way (ECT, and engine cooler, cooler engine bay, cooler intercooler). Thoughts on all three, and anything else I can do (besides the meth at this time)? Car is street driven, not daily, but it is not an all out race car.

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[SolarFlare]

IDK if any of those will help IATs overall. Id say get the 170* t-stat because its a good mod. You have to avoid idling for long periods of time.

 

[Zrussian13]

I can't speak to it personally but I've talked to some guys who actually ran hotter on the 170 tstat. Switched back to stock and temps stayed lower.

The meth kit is probably your best bet op. I'm hoping to have time to start installing mine this weekend.

 

[andrewtac]

IDK if any of those will help IATs overall. Id say get the 170* t-stat because its a good mod. You have to avoid idling for long periods of time.

agree with the idling. On the way back to the pits the IATs dropped to ambient plus a little. opening my hood helped while waiting in the staging lanes on the last run (saw others doing this). The idling is what killed me, as I don't think the addition of heat in the IAT is linear and the higher your IAT is at start the more non-linear the IAT climb. I figured the engine cover and liner would help the heat escape during idling, as when I touched my hood it was cool. I thought well the engine is probably cool, then I opened the hood and the blast of heat hit me. It seemed as if the heat was trapped in the engine bay.

 

[Chris Barnes]

I can't speak to it personally but I've talked to some guys who actually ran hotter on the 170 tstat. Switched back to stock and temps stayed lower.

The meth kit is probably your best bet op. I'm hoping to have time to start installing mine this weekend.

My car consistently ran 10-15 deg hotter with the Reiche 170 stat on hot AZ days. I'm also running an Alky Control system to keep IAT's at bay and the benefit of extra octane to help the terrible AZ 91 octane fuel.

 

[andrewtac]

My car consistently ran 10-15 deg hotter with the Reiche 170 stat on hot AZ days. I'm also running an Alky Control system to keep IAT's at bay and the benefit of extra octane to help the terrible AZ 91 octane fuel.

So it got worse with the 170 thermostat?

 

[Chris Barnes]

CHT's were worse. I ended up putting the stock stat back in after fighting CHT issues for over a year. I found that the Reiche only partially opened, even at temps approaching 230 degrees. I tested the 170 and the stock stat using hot water on a stove and a lab grade thermometer. Maybe I got a bad one, but Lund told me they see a high failure rate with the 170 stats. Not trying to sway you as many have fantastic results with the 170's, just sharing some hard earned info. Good luck.

 

[SolarFlare]

My car dropped a few degrees with the reische. But keeping hood open is important in the staging lanes. I let the car cool for 45 min to an hour then get in line and push til I have 2-3 ahead of me, then start it to get it some temp. If I feel like someone is delaying k shut it off again.
Finding a meth system should be simple and cheap, FB marketplace is a good place to start looking.

 

[Jackson1320]

My car consistently ran 10-15 deg hotter with the Reiche 170 stat on hot AZ days. I'm also running an Alky Control system to keep IAT's at bay and the benefit of extra octane to help the terrible AZ 91 octane fuel.

Were your fans tuned to match the lower thermostat. If your thermostat opens at 170 but your fans don’t come on till 210 it doesn’t really do any good.

 

[markmurfie]

At slow speeds or stopped idling, Fans will help more than just ECT. They will also cool off the evaporator and make your AC work better and intercooler to help with IATs the next time you go WOT.

 

[Stranger706]

Yes remove all engine covers and hood liners. Side fender vents, or large center hood vent like the GT500, and fans tuned for your setup. I know with the some tunes you can control the fans during staging. Run them on high speed, etc. Hopefully you can set that up.

Def need to vent the engine compartment and get air moving through there at all times. Do NOT remove the seal at the rear of the hood.

https://racelouvers.com/

 

[Cory S]

Is your car pulling timing because of IAT? I would datalog it and check. If it isn't, there's not much to worry about and you're not really losing anything. Dropping post compressor IATS on a RPM driven setup, isn't going to net you much at all like it would a turbo system.

 

[andrewtac]

Pulling 5 degrees by the end

 

[Cory S]

Pulling 5 degrees by the end

Yeah, that’s a solid reduction of about 50-70whp right there. Looks like you were at the track at a bad time as well. Go back when it’s cooler, and less crowded before trying to spend money on dropping IAT’s a few degrees IMO.

 

[andrewtac]

Yeah, that’s a solid reduction of about 50-70whp right there. Looks like you were at the track at a bad time as well. Go back when it’s cooler, and less crowded before trying to spend money on dropping IAT’s a few degrees IMO.

Agree, don't fix something that isn't exactly broke. I looked at the three runs it starts pulling timing around 110-120 mph progressively until the end of the run (IAT gets to about 140 here then continues to rise). Probably best to try again doing what solarflare said (push car, keep it off, etc.) to get a lower starting temp as the seems to be the biggest driver as to when the temps get high enough to pull timing. I should be getting a circle D soon, was planning on going back after that and will try to be more aware of temps. Will probably to the free stuff first (engine cover and liner).

Problem with waiting for a better day, that might be 6 months.

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