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General Suspension Questions

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Herculesx99

Herculesx99

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Most of the GT350 specs (i.e. spring rates, sway bar diameters, suspension pieces and part numbers, etc) can be found in various threads in this forum. Even a simple google search will get you a wealth of info and links to forum posts that have relevant topics.

Some parts are GT350 specific and not swappable to a standard Mustang, at least not easily or cheaply (like the aluminum spindles or rear control arms for example) but springs and sway bars do, and compared to aftermarket pieces are very reasonably priced. I purchased the GT350 bars for my own car, I just haven't gotten around to installing them yet. They aren't as thick as aftermarket bars, but still bigger than stock GT bars and for the price they're hard to beat unless you really need the increased roll stiffness of aftermarket bars for the track. For a DD like my car, those bars are all I need at 1/2 the price compared to aftermarket.

The springs don't offer much drop though, and one of the rear springs is wound backwards on the GT350, so if you're looking for 1" or more drop for your GT the aftermarket is the only way to go, but there are options that are pretty close to the GT350 spring rates so the handling and ride quality should be similar while still giving you more drop. Also, don't overlook the shocks when replacing springs. That's one area that IMHO should not be skimped on but quite often is. Get the best shock you can afford, but almost anything will be better than any factory shock, including the GT350 or Ford Performance parts.

Just do some research on what works and what can and can't swap to a GT, and what's practical for the performance goals you're after.
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I would like to explore your suggestion of using the GT350 as a model to copy. How can I go about finding the specs and where to purchase?
Eibach ProKit for a 1” drop, Steeda Minimum Drop for less at 0.5”. Both are 200/800 with front rates in the GT350 range, but gracefully offer less rate in the rear. Interestingly, I just looked at Steeda’s spring guide and their Ultralites are now 200/800 as well; they offer a 1.125”F / 1” rear drop.

Pair any of these springs with the FRPP “Track” dampers and you’ll be set; the track dampers are essentially rebranded GT350 bits. I also vote for adjustable sway bars—the fine tuning ability with these is priceless.

- Mike
 

Rick#7

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Steeda progressives are a solid choice for a street car. You'll actually get a better ride than the GT350 while still improving the handling. I'm not sure the camber plates are completely necessary for a street car, but they can be helpful, especially if you need to dial in more camber to clear really wide tires up front.

There's been a bit of debate here on the progressive vs linear spring topic for best handling characteristics, but I believe progressives are a really good choice for a street only car (or even an only once in a while track car). Also, don't forget shorter bumpstops, those are definitely needed with lowering springs.
 

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I would like to explore your suggestion of using the GT350 as a model to copy. How can I go about finding the specs and where to purchase?
Excellent idea!

Start by learning what "Ride Frequency" is (and its relationship to spring rates).
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...-all-in-one-thread.44925/page-25#post-3108146

These are the Ford Performance Track dampers that have the same compression and rebound rates as the GT350 dampers. Go to the vendor forums and Ask Benny in the Levitown Ford forum for a discount shipping code. https://www.levittownfordparts.com/sku/m-18000-f.html
 
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Herculesx99

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I ended up just getting Steeda Progressive lowering springs installed. Ride seems the same, handling a little better changing lanes and on turns but definitely not dramatic. Like the lowered look. Any suggestion of what to do next except for shocks and struts?

IMG_20211001_180836 (1).jpg
 

tj@steeda

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What are you looking to accomplish - more power or more handling? IRS support?
 
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Herculesx99

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What are you looking to accomplish - more power or more handling? IRS support?
Handling and support, just want to know what would be my best bang for buck without changing my stock shocks and struts. Daily driver for spirited street and possibly on the track. That picture was taken in Manhattan so that has to be considered.
 

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Excellent idea!

Start by learning what "Ride Frequency" is (and its relationship to spring rates).
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...-all-in-one-thread.44925/page-25#post-3108146
I see a lot of people concerned about ride frequencies. I'm curious, how *exactly* are you using that number constructively (Not picking on you jarn, this is an open question)? What does it tell you that saying, "I've got a 300 #/in spring on the front of the car." Does not?

I'm all for people understanding their car and overall vehicle dynamics. To do that, start with understanding the statics of the system before diving into the dynamic aspects. Learn about ride, roll & pitch gradients. Understand different suspension layouts and what their geometry and designs imply. Learn about tires and the effects of alignment. Learn about damping curves and how they tend to affect the car. Learn how aero influences even mostly non-aero cars.

In my mind, there are 10,000 things to understand prior to any concern about ride frequencies.
 

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I see a lot of people concerned about ride frequencies. I'm curious, how *exactly* are you using that number constructively (Not picking on you jarn, this is an open question)? What does it tell you that saying, "I've got a 300 #/in spring on the front of the car." Does not?

I'm all for people understanding their car and overall vehicle dynamics. To do that, start with understanding the statics of the system before diving into the dynamic aspects. Learn about ride, roll & pitch gradients. Understand different suspension layouts and what their geometry and designs imply. Learn about tires and the effects of alignment. Learn about damping curves and how they tend to affect the car. Learn how aero influences even mostly non-aero cars.

In my mind, there are 10,000 things to understand prior to any concern about ride frequencies.
These cars aren't from the 60s anymore; there's no more pitching and rolling!/s
 

glockholiday

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Nothing more than stock is needed for daily street driving and if you want to track it you need to run it and see where you think it's lacking and correct those issues.
 

Norm Peterson

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These cars aren't from the 60s anymore; there's no more pitching and rolling!/s
Those motions are still there alright. Just not to the same horribly visible extents that they used to be until you're hustling the car a bit too hard for the existing spring, sta-bar, and damping rates. Chances are, you'd first notice pitch under extreme braking and possibly during a hard-ish launch on good pavement.


Norm
 

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These cars aren't from the 60s anymore; there's no more pitching and rolling!/s
Bullshit. Honestly, this is exactly what I'm talking about. Some don't realize the stuff which is readily visible from trackside even exists, but we're concerned with the finer points of ride frequency ratios? C'mon, folks, let's take a step back from _RCVD_ and maybe pick up an old, dog-eared copy of _Tune to Win_.
 

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Bullshit. Honestly, this is exactly what I'm talking about. Some don't realize the stuff which is readily visible from trackside even exists, but we're concerned with the finer points of ride frequency ratios? C'mon, folks, let's take a step back from _RCVD_ and maybe pick up an old, dog-eared copy of _Tune to Win_.
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