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Suspension option questions

Bluemustang

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I want to improve the handling of my car and make it closer to a corner hugging beast. I only drive on the street right now but I may look into taking it to the track at some point and so I would like the improvements to benefit that if I choose to do so.

I don't have unlimited funds and so I want the greatest bang for my buck so to speak. I am considering a ford racing track handling pack and a BMR cradle lockout as an inexpensive way to get this done. The shop I am considering suggested a BMR setup instead, which would run me about $2,000 versus $1300 for the FR setup.

The BMR setup would include this: BMR Handling springs - $260
Shocks and struts KONI adj. yellow - $740
BMR Vertical link for rear lower control arms, delrin bushings - $250
BMR Toe rod (on car adjustable) - $250
BMR Front and rear sway bars (hollow) - $500

Would this give me an upgrade over the ford racing setup? Bear in mind I am adding a ford racing strut tower and cowl brace as well which I already have in my garage. I also will be doing a Gibson catback.

I was hoping to get out of this for $3-4K but as I am learning... This stuff adds up, especially once you factor in labor costs.

I am wondering what all your thoughts are on what I should do.
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markmurfie

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Wheels and tires. That's where it starts and that's what will give you the biggest difference. Buy a second set of rims and tires dedicated to when you want to race. Buy a Jack and wrench to change them yourself when you need to. The suspension bits will improve feel and a little bit of handling, but biggest bang for the buck will be rims and tires. No one ever believes this and think their stock street tires are fine.
 

NightmareMoon

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Wheels and tires. That's where it starts and that's what will give you the biggest difference. Buy a second set of rims and tires dedicated to when you want to race. Buy a Jack and wrench to change them yourself when you need to. The suspension bits will improve feel and a little bit of handling, but biggest bang for the buck will be rims and tires. No one ever believes this and think their stock street tires are fine.
This^

Tires are the main factor for grip. It's hard to increase grip by stiffening the suspension, and the factory parts are really pretty capable. Easily good enough for quite a few track days. The factory tires are quiet, soft side walled, and sorta grippy, but they get slippery pretty quick as they age and characteristics at and beyond the limit could be a lot better.

After tires, the BMR handling springs, Konis, and Sways would be on my list. Yes those bits will be an upgrade over the ford racing parts.
 
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Bluemustang

Bluemustang

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I should also mention that I have a base GT auto. I wanted the performance pack but sadly it is only available in manual. Sacrilege I know. But there are some things I want to change beyond just the tires. For instance I've noticed the car is very floaty and bouncy and I'm looking to get rid of that. Tires are certainly in the future but I don't want to replace them yet bc they are still good. I might as well wait til they needed replacing before I upgrade to better tires/wheels.
 

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ForTehNguyen

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shocks and springs will take care of the floaty feeling
 

markmurfie

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I should also mention that I have a base GT auto. I wanted the performance pack but sadly it is only available in manual. Sacrilege I know. But there are some things I want to change beyond just the tires. For instance I've noticed the car is very floaty and bouncy and I'm looking to get rid of that. Tires are certainly in the future but I don't want to replace them yet bc they are still good. I might as well wait til they needed replacing before I upgrade to better tires/wheels.
That's why I suggested a second set of wheels and tires. one for everyday driving with some skinny cheap tires you don't mind replacing when they wear out. They also last more than 10k miles.
Then a second set just for racing with expensive tires that you wouldn't want to wear out just getting the groceries.

Having multiple dedicated tires for what you are doing is fairly common. The up front initial cost is high, but not wearing out expensive tires just cruising around not using them what they are meant to be used for should give you peace of mind. If you do end up doing this I would suggest getting aftermarket lugnuts. The stock ones have an outer shell that seems to swell and are very bad in my experience.

The factory base suspension is pretty bad. I remember feeling like I was flashing people with light acceleration with how much the rear dropped. body roll was bad as well. Springs fixed this for me. With a lot stiffer springs you will want shocks and struts. You can get away with just springs and they do help a lot. It just wont be complete. If you go too stiff with out shocks and struts the ride quality will totally suck and on bad roads you will feel borderline out of control.
 

NightmareMoon

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Mainly, shocks wtih more rebound dampening will cure the bouncy feeling. (Recommend adjustable Koni yellows or maybe the new adjustable Steeda shocks).

Springs won't hurt, but shocks are the issue with bounciness. I would not recommend going to stiffer/lower springs without upgrading the shocks too.

Tires for grip, adjustable shocks to control weight transfer and control bounce, springs if you want to lower the car, and sways to control body roll (beyond what stiffer springs will do), camber plates or slotted struts to optimize tire performance (particularly at the front), rear toe to keep the rear tucked in while putting power down in a corner (at the expense of added tire wear).
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