Gen 3 oil pressure

[Sabre]

The Gen 3 5.0 Coyote comes with an oil pressure control solenoid that lowers it at low rpm and toggles to close it at high rpm. So it's normal to see a low psi at idle...probably around 20 psi...and then higher psi as your rpm's increase.

Sponsored

 

[NoVaGT]

The first time I noticed my PSIs so low, well below 20 when warmed and at idle, it scared the hell out of me.

 

[engineermike]

The threshold to toggle to high pressure is 3000 rpm OR 0.7 load.

 

[19gtaz]

The first time I noticed my PSIs so low, well below 20 when warmed and at idle, it scared the hell out of me.

Me too. I've seen 13 on a really hot day at idle. Even on a cool day I'm below 20 at idle.
At 1800 rpm's cruising down the road I'm at 28 to 30. Goes way up if you rev it.
What's yours at hot idle?

 

[WD Pro]

I wonder how much the revised oil spec moves those hot idle pressures ?

WD

 

[m1m1m1]

Four days ago, I changed my oil to 5W50 because I’m about to install an ESS supercharger, and shortly after that, I noticed the cam chain rattle along with the BBQ tick. I’ve read about the oil control solenoid and tried to unplug it. So, when it’s unplugged, there’s no rattle or BBQ tick, and the engine works a lot better. And when you plug it back in, you get a rattle and a BBQ tick. I still haven’t checked the cam chain tensioner.


I’ll be glad to hear any opinions about this.

 

[Cobra Jet]

I've posted this before in other oil PSI threads.... so here's a repeat.
---

Oil PSI will change based on multiple conditions.

Oil PSI in ANY engine is always dependent upon operating temps, oil viscosity and SPEED/RPM. It's also dependent on extremely high tolerances built into these modern engines. Engines of days past (push rod engines) had "loose" tolerances and less internal parts where oil psi wasn't as high as seen in today's modern engines where build tolerances and specs are very "tight" and "close".

Also to note (for those not understanding oil psi or seeing such readings):
High oil psi upon initial startup is normal in every vehicle. The oil viscosity is thicker due to it sitting and dependent upon exterior seasonal temps (whether in a a garage or not). The colder the engine block, the thicker the oil will be, then as it warms up viscosity changes (thins out). As the oil does thin out and based on idle/speed/rpm/internal temps, yes the PSI will show lower readings. HOWEVER whether hot or cold, as long as those readings are within spec, there is NO concern.

Not every single Coyote (and Coyote Variant) is going to read the same oil psi @ X-interval (speed/rpm/idle) or at X-temps with X-viscosity, they just won't. Will they be within +/- 5-10psi of say the Ford spec, YES.

The oil psi specs below is for a bone stock S550 Coyote 5.0 right from Ford (I could not find a similar chart for a GT350 or GT350R):

That above charted PSI info is also based upon the standard recommended oil for the 5.0 Coyote.

—-
Here was an older thread regarding oil psi:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/2018-mustang-gt-15-psi-oil-pressure-normal.109015/

For those new to S550 Coyotes and Coyote Variants with the stock analog factory PP oil psi gauge in center dash pod above the center console stack, the increments on it are garbage. IMO, Ford should have designed that oil psi gauge with better increments (more accuracy with better spread of the psi values, so it's not just a "on/off" and doesn't top out with the slightest blip of throttle response).

 

[shogun32]

IMO, Ford should have designed that oil psi gauge with better increments

Sure. But it was a marketing gimmick, not an engineering feature. Ford rarely does anything right and proper, it's shortcuts everywhere because they want to save 30 cents.

 

[Cobra Jet]

Sure. But it was a marketing gimmick, not an engineering feature. Ford rarely does anything right and proper, it's shortcuts everywhere because they want to save 30 cents.

True, true…. The other thing too is many folks buying an S550 with the factory Performance Pack also don’t know much about how that oil psi gauge functions and it’s merely an “on/off” gauge….

Popping that sucker out and putting in a genuine analog or digital mechanical oil psi gauge that reads pressure directly from the block is the absolute best mod to do for those truly wanting to know their oil psi on the fly - not that happy gimmick horseshit “on/off” reading… LOL! I’m sure many have seen that gauge peg itself within the first 10 mins of driving the car….

 

[shogun32]

I’m sure many have seen that gauge peg itself within the first 10 mins of driving the car….

The Gen3 *does* have 2 oil-pressure modes of operation: below 3K rpm and small throttle vs over and big throttle since there is a bypass relay in the crank case. I will admit, I don't look at it anymore.

Any recommendations on a retrofit?

 

[Cobra Jet]

The Gen3 *does* have 2 oil-pressure modes of operation: below 3K rpm and small throttle vs over and big throttle since there is a bypass relay in the crank case. I will admit, I don't look at it anymore.

Any recommendations on a retrofit?

Easiest way to do a mechanical oil psi upgrade would be to tee off of the block where the stock oil sensor/sender is located.

You would remove the factory sensor/sender if it’s screwed directly into the block. Port 1 of the T would be a line going to the block where the sensor/sender was, Port 2 would be where you could still screw in the factory sensor/sender (to avoid tripping codes) and Port 3 tap/run the line for the new interior mechanical gauge. Use only AutoMeter or similar Stainless Steel braided lines and nothing else, because anything like copper or nylon “capillary” tubing with crush fittings is a disaster waiting to happen. You can get the AM SS line is 2ft, 3ft, 4ft or longer sections from Summit Racing, JEGS or AutoMeter. Average length from block to interior depending on necessary routing would be at minimum a 6ft line.

Find a route to the interior from the engine block - usually one can go through an existing grommet (or hole) at the firewall OR one can cut a small slit into the top of the rubber boot for the steering column and run the line above and through in that manner. Run the line up to the dash opening where the factory gauge would be, secure the SS line to the back of your new mechanical gauge. Secure the SS line in the engine bay so it’s not near any exhaust manifolds (headers if aftermarket) and not in the way of any moving hardware.

Usually most aftermarket gauges also have (+) and (-) leads for the illumination, so tap that too into the existing vehicle harness for the illumination. Now since the S550 can be equipped with “My Color”, don’t expect the aftermarket gauge to also be able to support “My Color”. Some aftermarket gauges might be able to support modern vehicle lighting effects, but most do not.

Once you have the mechanical hooked up (but not fully seated into the dash cavity) - keep the car safely jacked up on stands or a lift…. Start the vehicle and check the T at the block AND the back of the gauge for any oil leaks…. If no leaks and all is good, finish securing the gauge in the interior…. If there is a leak at either end (block T or gauge in interior) immediately shut down the car. Tighten any loose ends at the T. If the SS line is leaking at any junction, remove the line, clean the ends and use Teflon tape on the threads; reinstall SS line, start vehicle, and again check for leaks.

The AM SS line is acceptable at all track venues, where copper or nylon capillary tubing with crush fittings is usually not acceptable from a safety perspective.

Check this thread, lots of M6G members showing their aftermarket gauge setups.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/gauges-set-up.133933/#post-2759947

 

[Robottrainer]

Four days ago, I changed my oil to 5W50 because I’m about to install an ESS supercharger, and shortly after that, I noticed the cam chain rattle along with the BBQ tick. I’ve read about the oil control solenoid and tried to unplug it. So, when it’s unplugged, there’s no rattle or BBQ tick, and the engine works a lot better. And when you plug it back in, you get a rattle and a BBQ tick. I still haven’t checked the cam chain tensioner.


I’ll be glad to hear any opinions about this.

I've run 5w50 since I bought the car since it had a dealer installed Roush stage II supercharger. Never got the tick or rattle but have noticed some crazy pressure fluctuations on the PP1 guage everytime the did a software upgrade.

First Time it was on and off. 20psi at idle, then like a switch to 40 cruising around, and then another switch to 80 when you got on it hard. It was not analog. More digital.

The second update made it more analog. It would Chang as the rpm changed and then peg at 80 under power.

Third change, still analog but all over the map. 100psi at start up-sometimes. Sometimes 60. Still 20 at idle. Get on it when warm 100. When hot 80. I think the third change is giving a more realistic view.

 

[m1m1m1]

I've run 5w50 since I bought the car since it had a dealer installed Roush stage II supercharger. Never got the tick or rattle but have noticed some crazy pressure fluctuations on the PP1 guage everytime the did a software upgrade.

First Time it was on and off. 20psi at idle, then like a switch to 40 cruising around, and then another switch to 80 when you got on it hard. It was not analog. More digital.

The second update made it more analog. It would Chang as the rpm changed and then peg at 80 under power.

Third change, still analog but all over the map. 100psi at start up-sometimes. Sometimes 60. Still 20 at idle. Get on it when warm 100. When hot 80. I think the third change is giving a more realistic view.

Do you have your RPM goes up and down on idle?

 

[Robottrainer]

Do you have your RPM goes up and down on idle?

No. Rock steady.

 

[m1m1m1]

No. Rock steady.

That was caused because of the TB replacement, did a KAM relearn and got fixed.

Do you got the same ticking sound when let off the gas?

Sponsored