Front bumper removal & rivnut material

[JOKER M1]

Have 2 questions, I searched briefly but gave up and the car isn’t on jacks right now.

I have HP with splitter installed, when I remover the bumper can/will the splitter stay installed.

If above question is no and I have to drill out the plastic rivets then what would be the recommended Rivnut material of choice - stainless, aluminum or zinc steel

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[John S]

HP Splitter stays with the bumper and undertray/belly pan. You can remove the entire module after removing all the necessary clips and fasteners but it will be unwieldly and awkward to handle. Definitely have a helper on hand and something to "catch" the under tray as it drops from the car. Also, don't forget to disconnect the brake cooler ducts from the fender liners and disconnect the turn signal wiring by reaching through the fender liner. Good luck getting everything lined up when reassembling (watch out for the headlight tabs and top corners of the bumper near the headlights ) and be patient and the preassembled puzzle of plastic pieces should go back together just fine. If you want to have a removable undertray and HP splitter, there are special riv-nuts for plastic or the expandable rubber riv-nuts that offer better options than the silly plastic rivets.

 

[JOKER M1]

Hey @John S , thanks for all the detailed info. Since I won’t be in any hurry sounds like the best way to enjoy this is to do it in 2 or 3 separate pieces. I have experience in removing the front bumper when I had my 15’ which wasn’t bad but wasn’t looking forward to the M1 plus the added detail of dealing with the front fender lip moldings. I’ll check into the Rivnuts for plastic.

 

[GTP]

On my GT I always keep the splitter and belly pan with the bumper.

Once the ends are free from the fender I let it pivot down unsupported and then
disconnect the fog lamps.

Then I lift the entire assembly from the upper front edge and walk it over to set it down. The belly pan keeps the bumper upright.

Although things flex and while it is big and awkward, nothing gets damaged.

 

[mavisky]

Always easiest to remove the bumper/splitter/underbelly pan all at once.

 

[DonnieO]

All at once like @mavisky said

 

[Mjschneidy]

……..recommended Rivnut material of choice - stainless, aluminum or zinc steel

So I also wanted my splitter to be easily removable, on for track, off for street. I tried the aluminum rivnuts and found that they didn’t really crimp around the plastic as you’d expect, they just push the hole larger as you compressed them and never really crimped.

I ended up using this style.

 

[JOKER M1]

So I also wanted my splitter to be easily removable, on for track, off for street. I tried the aluminum rivnuts and found that they didn’t really crimp around the plastic as you’d expect, they just push the hole larger as you compressed them and never really crimped.

I ended up using this style.

That’s a rivnut plusnut or similar brand which they suggest using for plastic or thin materials. I just found those the other day but ended up not removing my splitter

 

[Knockdown]

I used the AL riv nuts but staked them with black RTV. They have held up pretty well though a couple of threads have gotten messed up.

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