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dgc333
Well-Known Member
Don't understand why you think I am wrong. As I stated in my post routine things like a window that does not go up/down or squealing brakes the dealer enters the claim and it gets authorized by the system.
If someone comes in with a significant issue like a blown engine they are not going to just authorize a repair. They are going to require the dealer to do some diagnostics and depending on the results they may decided to send a field engineer out before authorizing a repair.
Of course the dealer can influence decisions but they are subject to random audits and if it is found they are deceiving Ford they are subject to penalties.
My son was a service manager at a dealership for a number of years before he got his own shop and that is how it goes.
TorqueMan
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I think there was just a bit of disagreement with your statement that "the dealer makes no decision on whether a claim is covered by warranty." As was pointed out, some dealers simply say no without even checking with Ford, so they are, in fact, making a decision about warranty coverage.
I get what you are saying, however, and I agree; if there is a question whether something is covered it's ultimately up to Ford, not the dealer, to make a decision. I would say if your dealership refuses to even ask the question about whether a particular claim is valid then you need to find another dealership.
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TheLion
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- Thread starter
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Look up Ford Performance GT350 replacement filter. You can either go paper or you can buy their Synthamax re-usable filter. I would avoid oiled cotton. Oiled cotton is ok for actual track use, but on a daily, which sees far more miles and dirt, you need full 99%+ filtration to avoid undue piston ring wear and cylinder wall scarring. It's not worth 5~7 hp you'll never feel on a daily and will net you at best 0.05 seconds....
Dust contamination will adhere to the vaporized oil on the intake and eventually it will create this nasty hard sludge that has a high drag coefficient and reduce intake flow. That occurs much less when you use good filters, as little contamination is present. This is also very helpful at minimizing intake valve deposits.
Just vaporized oil will typically not build up as it's still in liquid form (only a slight coating), but when you add particulates to it, it becomes a gritty thick mess that can cause poor valve seal, which then adds more contamination (carbon caking) on top of it and the issue compounds.
That issue is not as big of a deal on port injection engines, but on DI engines, there's no fuel cleaning the intake valves. Some cars use both, the subaru FA20 engines for example have 8 injectors even though it is a 4-cylinder, one set in the intake (port injection) which sprays just enough fuel to clean the valves, and a DI set for each cylinder. Most DI engines on the road don't have an issue as long as they use proper filtration and replace or clean them regularly.
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TheLion
Well-Known Member
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- #2,120
Solution = be honest, have a working relationship with your local dealer or one that is reasonable and stick with as many Ford Performance warranty certified parts as possible.
Some dealers are even selling "Ford Performance" variants of mustangs, focuses, fiestas etc. now that are FP tuned with FP upgrades done by the dealer or special ordered with them. About the only thing FP is not selling right now for the mustang is inter coolers. They do sell Montoune (European wing of FP more or less) FMIC's for the Fiesta and Focus, but not for the mustang yet.
However garrett / honeywell just released their factory replacement FMIC. It's even CARB certified. I would have one heck of a hard time believing that Ford could blame a direct drop in honeywell / garrett inter cooler since they designed the flipping turbo itself and it's CARB certfied in one of the most stringent emissions tests. So if you want to be ultra safe or have a super picky dealer, then pair the garrett / honeywell FMIC with your FP tune and intake and pay the dealer to do all the install. Then there's no questions and you get about 80% of the performance of most other aftermarket FMIC's plus you get to keep you AGS completely in tact: https://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/intercoolers/2015-mustang-23l-ecoboost-intercooler
I actually spoke to the garrett engineer that was working on the project, by pure happenstance he was at the shop I was getting my car dynoed at as apparently him and the shop owner are good friends. Even he noted a completely stock car picked up a substantial amount of power with just an inter cooler upgrade, which is rather unusual as normally an inter cooler upgrade only allows harder use on an otherwise stock car (aka it has added cooling for more track oriented applications). If a stock inter cooler flows decent and provides reasonable cooling, the car will be making full power during short bursts, which is how most factory FMIC's are sized. Usually it's for bigger turbos or track applications where upgrades become necessary.
Take a look at their in house testing in the link. Even they show how crappy the stock unit is, 185F after 4 pulls....look at the turbo temps too, the inter cooler provides substantial cooling of the turbine compressor wheel, the air temps before the inter cooler are also much lower with a FMIC upgrade which is good for lifespan (less heat expansion, less thermal stress on the sleeve bearings and oil). BTW Inlet temp is the temp of the air coming out of the turbo prior to passing through the FMIC.
It doesn't just help the car make good power, it also helps reduce thermal loading the Turbo. I'd upgrade the inter cooler before tuning, even if you don't want to tune, at least get a garrett / honeywell FMIC in an otherwise stock car, you'll run mid 13's all day long! It really shines in the mid-range and top end. Look at how much further out it pushes the power band on even the stock engine. Your pushing 25 whp more from about 5250 rpm all the way out to 5750 rpm
.CP-e is also a decent drop in for stock location. If you want full sized, my ONLY recommendation for the ford tune and stock turbo is the ATM. Many of the other units are too big and don't flow well enough for the mid sized stock turbo, they choke out at the top end where pressure drop and flow efficiency becomes highly critical. That's where the ATM shines with it's rounded bar design, it flows really well like a tube and fin, but provides the cooling capacity + thermal mass of a bar and plate. Only downside is you have to remove your AGS and it's 30 lbs (you drop 13 lbs by removing the AGS + stock FMIC, so net gain is only 17 lbs, well worth the weight).
On my 2016 with the AGS removed, I always have a Uxxxx body train code for inoperable AGS, however I don't get any CEL or Wrench lights as it's not a critical part, neither does it affect engine operation from an emissions standpoint, only a little fuel economy at best on the highway and slightly longer warm-up times which can be countered with AMSOIL coolant additives. Even with the AGS open, it does restrict flow as the shutters and housing reduce the flow path area. They work and have their advantages, but there's no issue if they are not present either other than the two above mentioned caveats, where are inconsequential in practical use.
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Turbong
Well-Known Member
You are right about the good relationship with the dealer, however for most people who are just doing a tune such as FP just go with a stock size CPE or MAP is more than sufficient for those power levels and most important they are low key, keep your AGS and stock grill, stay low key to avoid potential problems, don't mess with the charge pipes or anything that will draw attention negatively, catch cans, painting the cover, blow off valves, adding racing stickers and if you can leave the exhaust stock I don't see why that is too hard anyway since its 4 cylinders, those are all things they generally look for and will do more harm than good when something goes wrong.Solution = be honest, have a working relationship with your local dealer or one that is reasonable and stick with as many Ford Performance warranty certified parts as possible.
Some dealers are even selling "Ford Performance" variants of mustangs, focuses, fiestas etc. now that are FP tuned with FP upgrades done by the dealer or special ordered with them. About the only thing FP is not selling right now for the mustang is inter coolers. They do sell Montoune (European wing of FP more or less) FMIC's for the Fiesta and Focus, but not for the mustang yet.
However garrett / honeywell just released their factory replacement FMIC. It's even CARB certified. I would have one heck of a hard time believing that Ford could blame a direct drop in honeywell / garrett inter cooler since they designed the flipping turbo itself and it's CARB certfied in one of the most stringent emissions tests. So if you want to be ultra safe or have a super picky dealer, then pair the garrett / honeywell FMIC with your FP tune and intake and pay the dealer to do all the install. Then there's no questions and you get about 80% of the performance of most other aftermarket FMIC's plus you get to keep you AGS completely in tact: https://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/intercoolers/2015-mustang-23l-ecoboost-intercooler
I actually spoke to the garrett engineer that was working on the project, by pure happenstance he was at the shop I was getting my car dynoed at as apparently him and the shop owner are good friends. Even he noted a completely stock car picked up a substantial amount of power with just an inter cooler upgrade, which is rather unusual as normally an inter cooler upgrade only allows harder use on an otherwise stock car (aka it has added cooling for more track oriented applications). If a stock inter cooler flows decent and provides reasonable cooling, the car will be making full power during short bursts, which is how most factory FMIC's are sized. Usually it's for bigger turbos or track applications where upgrades become necessary.
Take a look at their in house testing in the link. Even they show how crappy the stock unit is, 185F after 4 pulls....look at the turbo temps too, the inter cooler provides substantial cooling of the turbine compressor wheel, the air temps before the inter cooler are also much lower with a FMIC upgrade which is good for lifespan (less heat expansion, less thermal stress on the sleeve bearings and oil). BTW Inlet temp is the temp of the air coming out of the turbo prior to passing through the FMIC.
It doesn't just help the car make good power, it also helps reduce thermal loading the Turbo. I'd upgrade the inter cooler before tuning, even if you don't want to tune, at least get a garrett / honeywell FMIC in an otherwise stock car, you'll run mid 13's all day long! It really shines in the mid-range and top end. Look at how much further out it pushes the power band on even the stock engine. Your pushing 25 whp more from about 5250 rpm all the way out to 5750 rpm
CP-e is also a decent drop in for stock location. If you want full sized, my ONLY recommendation for the ford tune and stock turbo is the ATM. Many of the other units are too big and don't flow well enough for the mid sized stock turbo, they choke out at the top end where pressure drop and flow efficiency becomes highly critical. That's where the ATM shines with it's rounded bar design, it flows really well like a tube and fin, but provides the cooling capacity + thermal mass of a bar and plate. Only downside is you have to remove your AGS and it's 30 lbs (you drop 13 lbs by removing the AGS + stock FMIC, so net gain is only 17 lbs, well worth the weight).
On my 2016 with the AGS removed, I always have a Uxxxx body train code for inoperable AGS, however I don't get any CEL or Wrench lights as it's not a critical part, neither does it affect engine operation from an emissions standpoint, only a little fuel economy at best on the highway and slightly longer warm-up times which can be countered with AMSOIL coolant additives. Even with the AGS open, it does restrict flow as the shutters and housing reduce the flow path area. They work and have their advantages, but there's no issue if they are not present either other than the two above mentioned caveats, where are inconsequential in practical use.
drwalker887
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Yes I did also NGK 6510 .027 gap and it runs great
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kiszl
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If you get a downpipe would you have to run another tune other than the FP? I know that some downpipes say tune not required but recommended, so I'm not exactly sure what that means
lizardrko
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Yes, if u have the FP tune, u cannot run an aftermarket downpipe. They need to be tuned so that all the extra airflow can be controlled. Basically do FP tune + intercooler and leave it at that.
TEXAS HEAT
Well-Known Member
I think there are those who have, but the consensus is not to. I'm not sure how much control the FRPP tune allows for throttle manipulation to control boost overshoots, but I personally wouldn't risk the possibility of over boosting my engine in an uncontrolled manor.
Aaron_ATX
Active Member
Interesting .... my EB has always had what I would describe inconsistent throttle response. Bout 15k on my ford tune as well, but car has always done it since it was new.
Poor belt tension leading to low output from the alternator at partial throttle eh? Hmm I will have to go take a look at mine. Glad it fixed your problem, but I have my doubts.... lol. Hell if it fixes it ill eat a sparkplug.
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