Ford Racing ProCal Tune

[Rcmchicago]

Here is a good subject change- I noticed when I moved out to Colorado, they have these DIY auto shops where for 39 an hour you get access to a lift/tools etc and for I believe 49 an hour you can get assistance from an ASE tech on whatever project you are working on. Anyone ever go to this kind of DIY shop to do installs? Seems like a nice option to save some cash for intercooler install but also to get some assistance and support with a lift.

Sponsored

 

[TheLion]

Maybe because this is not a thread about intercoolers?

You might want to pull away from the keyboard... no need for all of that. Make an argument... no need for personal attacks...

You are in PA, maybe we could meet and you take my $1000... all legal, no street racing. Just country driving or hwy driving, your pick. Show me how you can use that 40 hp to leave me in the dust while driving street legal. Show me the power of that intercooler!!!! Make me a believer.

At any rate, I'm done talking about this until next time... when the covo starts sounding ridiculous again. I need to strap an intercooler to my co-worker... that would give the entire office gains.

BTW, this thread is about the FP tune...

Go to your local drap strip and race some one with the same setup as you + an inter cooler. You'll loose every time. If your car performs the way you want it to now with the stock inter cooler, then there's no need for you to get one.

It's not a MUST have, the car is perfectly reliable as is stock. But then why get the FP calibation and CAI? It's all about making more power safely over the life of the car and you can easily feel the difference in acceleration in the upper gears, the car is also far more consistent between hot and cold days.

I can top out 3rd on the street, at about 6300 RPM it hit about 80 with my short 3.73 torsen diff and MT-82 manual. Also if you drag race at the strip or go to your local circuit track those are also places where you can top out in 3rd and 4th gear (about 102~103 is about what a FP tuned EB will trap at on the 1/4 mile with just the FP calibration alone). Probably around 103~105 with tires, inter cooler, gearing and exhaust (last item on my list is the FP touring cat back exhaust, 20lbs lighter an a little better flow might pick up 1~2 mph trap). I think bone stock EB's on the fast list are trapping right around 99~100 with the horribly peaky and short power band, yuck!

108 mph in 4th gear is at 6300 rpm with my gearing. I think it's safe to say an inter cooler isn't necessary for the safety of the vehicle and the car will still be faster with the FP calibration even without an inter cooler upgrade, but it will be measurably and noticeably faster with the FP calibration AND an inter cooler upgrade than with the calibration alone.

You can get your car ASE certified with the FP calibration and an inter cooler as your not messing with timing, fueling, altitude maps, temperature maps etc (which is how I had mine done and I also confirmed with Mike at FP that cooling system upgrades are fine). Your just giving the car the best possible input conditions to make power up to the maximum limits set by Ford Performance with their calibration. Yup, I type novels, so before anyone makes a comment about my ridiculously long responses, get used to it, everyone else did ;). Inter coolers are akin to CAI's for NA engines and just about anyone modifying an NA engine will do intake an exhaust.

 

[Spykexx]

Here is a good subject change- I noticed when I moved out to Colorado, they have these DIY auto shops where for 39 an hour you get access to a lift/tools etc and for I believe 49 an hour you can get assistance from an ASE tech on whatever project you are working on. Anyone ever go to this kind of DIY shop to do installs? Seems like a nice option to save some cash for intercooler install but also to get some assistance and support with a lift.

We actually had these on post in Georgia. I loved using them! They always had ASE techs in there to give a helpful hand. Many times if you got to know them they'd help for free.

Go to your local drap strip and race some one with the same setup as you + an inter cooler. You'll loose every time. If your car performs the way you want it to now with the stock inter cooler, then there's no need for you to get one.

It's not a MUST have, the car is perfectly reliable as is stock. But then why get the FP calibation and CAI? It's all about making more power safely over the life of the car and you can easily feel the difference in acceleration in the upper gears, the car is also far more consistent between hot and cold days.

I can top out 3rd on the street, at about 6300 RPM it hit about 80 with my short 3.73 torsen diff and MT-82 manual. Also if you drag race at the strip or go to your local circuit track those are also places where you can top out in 3rd and 4th gear (about 105~106 is about what a FP tuned EB will trap at on the 1/4 mile with just the FP calibration alone). Probably around 107~108 with tires, inter cooler, gearing and exhaust (last item on my list is the FP touring cat back exhaust, 20lbs lighter an a little better flow might pick up 1~2 mph trap).

108 mph in 4th gear is at 6300 rpm with my gearing. I think it's safe to say an inter cooler isn't necessary for the safety of the vehicle and the car will still be faster with the FP calibration even without an inter cooler, but it will noticeably faster with the FP calibration AND an inter cooler.

You can get your car ASE certified with the FP calibration and an inter cooler as your not messing with timing, fueling, altitude maps, temperature maps etc. Your just giving the car the best possible input conditions to make power up to the maximum limits set by Ford Performance with their calibration. Yup, I type novels, so before anyone makes a comment about my ridiculously long responses, get used to it, everyone else did ;)

Now now. Stop using that common sense.

 

[TheLion]

Here is a good subject change- I noticed when I moved out to Colorado, they have these DIY auto shops where for 39 an hour you get access to a lift/tools etc and for I believe 49 an hour you can get assistance from an ASE tech on whatever project you are working on. Anyone ever go to this kind of DIY shop to do installs? Seems like a nice option to save some cash for intercooler install but also to get some assistance and support with a lift.

No need for a lift for an inter cooler install, although it's a good idea if your doing suspension mods. Just drive your car up on ramps like you would for an oil change and you can access everything you need to. Turn the tires left or right when you undo the front bumper bolts behind the wheel well covers and there's plenty of room for access.

There's no need at all for ramps or a lift to do the FP calibration and CAI, but if you want your warranty you have to have it installed by an ASE certified tech. Some times you can get away with installing the CAI yourself and just having them do the calibration and document it to save a few bucks as the CAI isn't exactly complicated, but a bit of a pain to shove everything in there as the fitment isn't the greatest.

 

[lizardrko]

Maybe because this is not a thread about intercoolers?

You might want to pull away from the keyboard... no need for all of that. Make an argument... no need for personal attacks...

You are in PA, maybe we could meet and you take my $1000... all legal, no street racing. Just country driving or hwy driving, your pick. Show me how you can use that 40 hp to leave me in the dust while driving street legal. Show me the power of that intercooler!!!! Make me a believer.

At any rate, I'm done talking about this until next time... when the covo starts sounding ridiculous again. I need to strap an intercooler to my co-worker... that would give the entire office gains.

BTW, this thread is about the FP tune...

Well this extremely long thread was now discussing the benefits of running an aftermarket FMIC along with the FP tune to get the most out of the tune. Once my MAP intercooler comes in, I will report how the car feels. Ive been running this tune for ~7000 miles so I know how the car is and where the power needs to improve, still up top. It is still a huge improvement over stock but it can always be better. Its fine for one maybe two 1st-2nd gear pull then its pretty much done until it cools back down.

 

[solodogg]

Well this extremely long thread was now discussing the benefits of running an aftermarket FMIC along with the FP tune to get the most out of the tune. Once my MAP intercooler comes in, I will report how the car feels. Ive been running this tune for ~7000 miles so I know how the car is and where the power needs to improve, still up top. It is still a huge improvement over stock but it can always be better. Its fine for one maybe two 1st-2nd gear pull then its pretty much done until it cools back down.

I think you will be pleased then. FP Tune + Mishimoto IC and CFL heat, none of these feelings of falling on its face anymore after a pull or two.

 

[lizardrko]

I think you will be pleased then. FP Tune + Mishimoto IC and CFL heat, none of these feelings of falling on its face anymore after a pull or two.

Thats what I like to hear. Did you have the IC first or tune first?

 

[TheLion]

Thats what I like to hear. Did you have the IC first or tune first?

I did an inter cooler first, the car was at least consistent and the top end, while it still faded a decent amount, didn't fade so much my sports car would tun into a 160 hp family sedan by 6500 RPM.

VMP did a dyno on a stock EB with just the Levels Inter Cooler as an upgrade it held up to 225 HP at the wheels by 6500 RPM. That's not that bad even for a stock tune. I'll bet a stock EB will run consistent mid 13's with just an inter cooler and tires (look at the EB fast list under the bone stock category, on the cooler days and with decent drivers there's a bunch of 13.6's and 13.7's).

One guy ran a 13.2 on an almost bone stock EB by just cutting weight (removed the cat back exhaust, rear seats and front passenger seat).

https://www.vmpperformance.com/Levels-Performance-2015-Ecoboost-Mustang-Street-I-p/lvl-must-street.htm

Imagine how quick the EB 2.3L with the FP calibration and an inter cooler would be if the car was 200lb lighter like the Camaro...we can only dream of the pig loosing weight! But I digress, the inter cooler alone makes an other wise stock EB feel much more eager and consistent. The EB isn't the only car with that issue though, my co worker has a 2015 WRX and he noted the same thing happens to him, it falls on its face in 3rd gear a lot of times, especially on hot days. His car is bone stock other than a short throw shifter.

 

[TheLion]

This has probably been done to death, but I've seen a few tests done on exhaust, there's not a whole lot there, but it looks like there are some solid gains in the mid-range / top end with cat back exhaust, I think that's almost entirely due to removing the resonator though.

Most only do exhaust for sound, but I've seen a few dynos done by MAP and LateModelRestoration (on the FP Sport Cat Back) show some measurably gains (by that I mean more than 1~2 hp).

Both show about 15~18 hp in the power band and tapering towards the top end:
[ame="[MEDIA=youtube]unhwoP6riW4[/MEDIA]"]

[ame="[MEDIA=youtube]5mOjxNeEBjg[/MEDIA]"]

Just an area where you can eek out a bit more power, better sound and lower weight without affecting reliability, which is the entire point of the FP Calibration thread. Making more power and doing for 150k~200k miles.

 

[eco1]

Is there a replacement for Ford Performance Cold Air Intake filter (P/N: M-9603-M23) or a way to clean it?

Bad idea to add a pedalmax to the ford tune?

Does an Intercooler void the warranty?

Also hearing a weird draining noise sometimes when shutting the car off? I believe the sound is coming from somewhere near the steering wheel. Any ideas? Not sure if anyone else has heard that before? Vehicle has 20,000 miles.

Thanks in advance.

 

[solodogg]

Thats what I like to hear. Did you have the IC first or tune first?

Same as [MENTION=25093]TheLion[/MENTION] I had the IC first. Made the car feel much better up top, especially in second and third gears where it felt like it was falling on its face stock. It was enough of a change that I had convinced myself I wasn't going to tune the car at first, but then I found a decent deal and decided what the hell. Anyone who says these cars don't need an IC upgrade needs to drive one with it, and I think they will change their minds.

Years ago I had an SRT-4 that had an excellent stock intercooler. Most of the people upgrading saw no benefit other thna the entire front grille area being flashier with the newly larger IC taking up space. So it was tough for me to grasp how Ford could make such a bad OEM IC, and I was also on the nit needed train at first. After doing more investigating on it, and logging how the car was responding when bone stock, I quickly learned that these guys were right, Ford did a horrible job with the stock tune and IC.

IMO, as has been said here before, I would recommend swapping the IC as soon as you pull off the dealer lot, unless you never plan on using the gas pedal. You will never come close to full potential without the upgraded unit and a minimum of 91 octane, just those 2 things make this a completely different animal.

 

[Spykexx]

Got my ATM intercooler on the way along with frpp tune here within the next few weeks!

 

[TheLion]

Same as [MENTION=25093]TheLion[/MENTION] I had the IC first. Made the car feel much better up top, especially in second and third gears where it felt like it was falling on its face stock. It was enough of a change that I had convinced myself I wasn't going to tune the car at first, but then I found a decent deal and decided what the hell. Anyone who says these cars don't need an IC upgrade needs to drive one with it, and I think they will change their minds.

Years ago I had an SRT-4 that had an excellent stock intercooler. Most of the people upgrading saw no benefit other thna the entire front grille area being flashier with the newly larger IC taking up space. So it was tough for me to grasp how Ford could make such a bad OEM IC, and I was also on the nit needed train at first. After doing more investigating on it, and logging how the car was responding when bone stock, I quickly learned that these guys were right, Ford did a horrible job with the stock tune and IC.

IMO, as has been said here before, I would recommend swapping the IC as soon as you pull off the dealer lot, unless you never plan on using the gas pedal. You will never come close to full potential without the upgraded unit and a minimum of 91 octane, just those 2 things make this a completely different animal.

Read it an weep: http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56367 :(

Ford is perfectly capable of designing a decent inter cooler, look at the F-150. They had to block off the FMIC (at least their early attempts) because it was cooling so well it was causing excessive moisture issues on rainy days that was causing misfires. My old 07 Focus ST would do that on very rainy days with the K&N fender well CAI. It would suck up so much water power would cut out and I couldn't accelerate.

 

[TheLion]

Got my ATM intercooler on the way along with frpp tune here within the next few weeks!

My ATM inter cooler is sitting on my work bench in the garage. Gotta get a dyno run in first with the Levels Gen 3 so I can see if there's any difference at all. Also did a nice long 4th gear up hill pull to 6300 RPM with my current setup (and about 10k miles on the FP calibration now, at 26k and I just got it in June of last year lol).

Max temp differential I saw with the levels was about 15F at the end of the pull (88F ambient). Bear in mind this was also going up hill with both windows open (no ac on) at about a 7 degree gradient, so fairly steep.

That's pretty good, but I saw a 2-3-4 gear pull listed on ATM's site that showed an ending temp only 4F higher than the starting temp, so I am thinking once the ATM goes in it's going to stay :-)

Not that the Levels is bad, bit's a great unit, but since I'm going for efficiency rather than raw power, a better FMIC is the only way I can eek out another couple ponies. I expect most of any measurable difference would be at the power band / top end when the FMIC efficiency becomes far more critical. Eventually when my batteries needs replaced I use one of those Air-weight LiPo battiers, that's another 25lbs lighter. My FP Cat Back touring exhaust (due this wed), is also 20lbs lighter, right there is nearly 50lbs between the two. Run a 1/4 tank of gas and the EB's will be flyin' (pending a driver mod).

These EB"s REALLY respond well to weight reduction. That how the guy who ran the 13.2 on a supposedly bone stock EB did it, he removed weight by loosing the cat back exhaust, rear seats and passenger seat. I was wondering how that was possible for a while until I read one of the posts so I guess that still classified as bone stock.

I will repeat both the 4th gear pull and the dyno (only difference being the FMIC) with the ATM after this weekend (once the car goes up on the dyno as is).

 

[Spykexx]

My ATM inter cooler is sitting on my work bench in the garage. Gotta get a dyno run in first with the Levels Gen 3 so I can see if there's any difference at all. Also did a nice long 4th gear pull to 6300 RPM.

Max temp differential I saw with the levels was about 15F at the end of the pull (88F ambient). Bear in mind this was also going up hill with both windows open (no ac on) at about a 7 degree gradient, so fairly steep.

That's pretty good, but I saw a 2-3-4 gear pull listed on ATM's site that showed an ending temp only 4F higher than the starting temp, so I am thinking once the ATM goes in it's going to stay :-)

Not that the Levels is bad, bit's a great unit, but since I'm going for efficiency rather than raw power, a better FMIC is the only way I can eek out another couple ponies. I expect most of any measurable difference would be at the power band / top end when the FMIC efficiency becomes far more critical.

I will repeat both the 4th gear pull and the dyno (only difference being the FMIC) with the ATM after this weekend (once the car goes up as is).

Didn't you see in my overboosting post?!? Ford engineers walk on hallowed ground and would NEVER put a bad part in a car. These aren't flaws they are "Features". Apparently that is now an argument. :frusty:

I got my ATM from a member on here for a hell of a price, so i can't complain one bit! Sold axle-back from V6, and pretty much was free for me! Can't wait! Should be here Wednesday (Although UPS has it about 75 miles away so could be tomorrow!)

Sponsored