Ford Performance Knuckle To Toe Link Bearing Assembly

[Tuxedomouse]

Whew, is this a tough install. Even with a ball joint C-clamp set and a 20 ton shop press, it took me forever to get one side done tonight.

Pro tip - you need a 1-7/8 outside diameter socket (a 1-1/4 impact socket from Menard's works perfectly) to press the factory bushing out, and push the new Ford Racing bushing in.

God bless you if you tried to do this all with the knuckle on the car. I frankly don't think the frustration would be worth it. The most difficult part is getting the new bearing going in straight. The new bearing is a bit more than 10 thou larger than the opening (od to id), and the lead in is so short that it doesn't help you start in a straight line.

Not looking forward to finishing the other side, but I suppose it will make the final result that much sweeter. View attachment 400241

Sponsored

 

[Niz55]

I think doing it on the car is much easier. I have done it 4 times now. The first time was a bitch.

 

[ctandc72]

Go to harbor freight. Buy the 4x4 ball joint press kit. Grease the screw jack on the large clamp that comes with the kit and use an impact on it.

 

[5ohh_kenny]

I just finished mine at 2am last night after 4 different trips to part stores.

Had to rent the ball joint press from oreilly and master ball joint kit from autozone to get the correct receiving cup. Those poor guys at oreilly are probably wondering that the hell I did with that thing because the black nitride coating is all eaten off the bottom 4 inches of threads from excessive torque.
I first bought a 35mm impact socket from oreilly which ended up being to long(not enough length in the c clamp). I then did as the FP installation instructions say and bought a 1 1/4” socket from Harbor Freight, that pushed out the rubber part‍. I ended up buying a 1 3/8” 3/4” drive socket from O’Reilly for 10 bucks, that worked perfectly. My advice is to take the new bearing with you to a parts store and get the socket that fits the OD the best. And make sure it’s not deep well.
To press out the bushing I had to put a 3 foot cheater pipe on my 1/2 ratchet 2-3 clicks at a time standing on the end of the pipe Ended up flacking up some aluminum on one of the bores, I assume from the socket making contact. The new bearing pushed in fine though.
I threw the bearing in my freezer for an hour or so to shrink it as much as possible. I also heated up the bore. Don’t know if it helped but I know it didn’t hurt. Bearings definitely went in easier than the bushings came out.

But, I digress. I hope this helps someone. This install seems easy but isn’t for the faint of heart. Especially on jack stand with the knuckle on the car.

 

[Niz55]

did you also use red thread locker?

 

[moffetts]

I'm doing my toe/RLCA bearings this weekend. This insight is very appreciated.

 

[5ohh_kenny]

did you also use red thread locker?

I did. After putting it on the bearing and in the bore then fumbling with the c clamp for 15 minutes to make sure everything was lined up it ended up coating my hands. Just added to my joy

 

[aleccolin]

My advice for anyone doing this job;

1) Factor in the purchase of a good quality ball joint press kit, shouldn't cost more than around $100 on Amazon. They all look similar, but I've found the difference is mostly in the heat treat - the really cheap ones don't hold up.
2) Right out of the box check the threads, file any that are not perfect, clean the threads with acetone, dry and apply some molybdenum disulfide grease to the threads and work in and out a bunch. Wear gloves and old clothes that shit gets everywhere, but it's specifically for high load metal-metal lubrication, which is what you need. Makes a big difference. WD-40 won't do a damn thing.
3) Do not use an impact except to run it in/out quickly, you need slow controlled pressure in a pressing situation, the impact will wreck shit (mostly your press tool) if it's got any ass at all.
4) Do it on the car, in the air if you can borrow a lift. If not, have a friend to hand you tools or you'll be getting up and down off your ass 100 times and take 3 times as long.
5) I used a MAPP gas torch to heat up the knuckle a bit to break down any assembly adhesive for pressing apart, but I didn't see evidence of any after pressing apart. You can probably skip that step.
6) I don't see the need for the loctite, except as a lubricant that will dry. I skipped it.

For the RLCA bearings most of the above applies, except I'll add;

1) Take your time to set up the control arm correctly in the press, it's awkward. A buddy to hold it in position while you seat the ram is VERY helpful. I did mine late one night by myself and regretted it.
2) Check the bore and use a wee bit of anti-seize inside the bore to limit stick-slip. Mine got to the very end and the galling caused it to jump and remove a little aluminum with it. Doesn't affect strength or how it works, but it could have been prevented.
3) You can use a torch (propane or MAPP) to warm up the LCA while pressing out, but keep the heat even and don't overdo it, 200-250F max, Aluminum alloys lose strength quickly above 350 degrees and are down to about 50% by 600F. Press everything together cold.
3) Don't over-drive the bearing, sneak up to it. The anti-seize will help.
4) I used Steeda's bearings which came with an Aluminum press cup, worked like a charm, but you still have to find something the right ID to go under it, the ball joint service kit should have a tube that'll work

 

[moffetts]

For the toe and RLCA bearings, does it matter which way they go in? The toe bearing appears to be symmetrical but the (Steeda) RLCA bearing looks different one side versus the other, but in terms of overall shape it is symmetrical.

 

[aleccolin]

For the toe and RLCA bearings, does it matter which way they go in? The toe bearing appears to be symmetrical but the (Steeda) RLCA bearing looks different one side versus the other, but in terms of overall shape it is symmetrical.

There's no taper on the bore, but there should be a lead-in chamfer on the bearing, both the OE and the new ones. Press them out the same way they were pressed in.

Edit: Probably not necessary but just to clarify, if the OE was pressed in right to left, press it out in the opposite direction (left to right), then reinstall right to left again.

 

[moffetts]

Okay cool, that makes sense. I will pay attention to how they come out.

 

[5ohh_kenny]

The FRPP toe bearing is only chamfered on one side so that goes in first. FRPP instructions show pushing it in rear to front. To echo what aleccolin said, push the bushing out the opposite way(front to rear). Good luck!

 

[DB83]

Wow, what a pain. I tried using an extractor from Amazon, and it snapped the bolt!!
Would a 10 tonne hydraulic press do the job?

 

[5ohh_kenny]

If you have an auto parts store nearby that does loaner tools just borrow one from them. Make sure to grease the threads like @aleccolin said and you shouldn't snap it. Make sure you have the receiving cup setup where it’s not impeding the bushings egress. In hindsight it would have been extremely beneficial to have someone there helping to make sure everything was lined up and have another set of hands.

 

[DB83]

I did everything they mentioned above, but neither of them will move. I even went out and bought another piece of high quality high tensile steel rod to replaced the broken one and even that one snapped!!
It's not my first time using one of these, so i know i'm doing it right, it's just not budging!
I can source a decent 10 ton press near me for not very much, so i thought that would be a better route, but only if 10 tonnes would be enough.

Sponsored