Ford Performance Knuckle To Toe Link Bearing Assembly

[aleccolin]

Do you happen to have a picture of your setup? You're just doing the toe link bearings, right?

Should be using one of these for the toe link bearings, you'll need a shop press for the RLCA bearings.

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[KewlWinter]

I've done this on 3 S550's now and it was easy every time, once I used the right tool. I tried doing this job on my 2015 EB with a ball joint press, and I actually bent the C-frame trying to get it to budge. So I ended up buying a bearing/bushing kit off Amazon for around $80. When it came in, I made sure to lubricate the rod threads, then put it to use. All I can say is, WOW! Made the job easy, and same for my 2018 EB and my wife's 2016 V6.

Edit: Almost forgot to add... This works for both the toe link bushings and the LCA bushings. Much better than using a shop press for the LCA's which is awkward as hell.

Here is a pic of the kit.

 

[Grimreaper]

I used a ball joint press for both. Toe bearing came out easy.
Rlca did as well once the rubber was cut out and then one or 2 cuts were put in the outer sleeve. Rlca bearing took maybe 10 minutes a side in a vise that way.

That bushing press kit from amazon looks nice though!

 

[DB83]

I've done this on 3 S550's now and it was easy every time, once I used the right tool. I tried doing this job on my 2015 EB with a ball joint press, and I actually bent the C-frame trying to get it to budge. So I ended up buying a bearing/bushing kit off Amazon for around $80. When it came in, I made sure to lubricate the rod threads, then put it to use. All I can say is, WOW! Made the job easy, and same for my 2018 EB and my wife's 2016 V6.

Edit: Almost forgot to add... This works for both the toe link bushings and the LCA bushings. Much better than using a shop press for the LCA's which is awkward as hell.

Here is a pic of the kit.

This is the same kit I've got. I've used it previously on another car and it worked fine, but on the mustang, both the toe link and LCA bearing both snapped the threaded rod. Bought another threaded rod and snapped that one too, so for some reason my bearings don't want to come out. That's why i thought a 10 ton press would do the job better.

 

[KewlWinter]

This is the same kit I've got. I've used it previously on another car and it worked fine, but on the mustang, both the toe link and LCA bearing both snapped the threaded rod. Bought another threaded rod and snapped that one too, so for some reason my bearings don't want to come out. That's why i thought a 10 ton press would do the job better.

Wow! I've never come close to snapping the rod. I don't know if you lubricated the rod before use, but if you don't the threads will probably gall under extreme load, thus causing binding and snapping the rod. I actually cleaned the threaded rods and then put anti-seize on them, then ran one of the nuts up and down a few times to make sure the threads were coated. After each use, I refresh the anti-seize on the rod. I did this due to having a similar experience as you with a cheap ball joint press.

 

[DB83]

I used axle grease. Not as good as molykote or anti-seize, but still lubricated. And like i said, i've used it before on another car and worked fine. Just hope the bearings aren't seized in there for some stupid reason!!

 

[KewlWinter]

I used axle grease. Not as good as molykote or anti-seize, but still lubricated. And like i said, i've used it before on another car and worked fine. Just hope the bearings aren't seized in there for some stupid reason!!

Sorry to hear that. Worst case there is the old school method of drill out the bushing rubber to remove the center sleeve, then using a reciprocating saw to CAREFULLY cut the outer sleeve from the inside. It takes finesse, but makes it easy to knock out, seized or not. LOL

 

[aleccolin]

Spray some PB Blaster on the joint between the bearing and knuckle, both sides, and then heat the knuckle up with a propane or MAPP gas torch to allow it to expand a little and pull the penetrant into the connection. The aluminum knuckle will wick heat away pretty quickly so overheating it shouldn't be an issue, but check it periodically with an IR thermometer to stay under 300F.

 

[Grimreaper]

Sorry to hear that. Worst case there is the old school method of drill out the bushing rubber to remove the center sleeve, then using a reciprocating saw to CAREFULLY cut the outer sleeve from the inside. It takes finesse, but makes it easy to knock out, seized or not. LOL

Just to add I found that the outer sleeve doesn't need to be cut all the way through for it to have tension relived. 2 cuts 180 degrees from each other works great. I made it about half way through the outer sleeves. Maybe bit more. Use hammer and flat head screwdriver to knock the outer sleeve edges near the cut marks in and you're set.

 

[moffetts]

I’m half done; one toe bearing and one lca bearing are in. The toe bearing was doable with the 23 piece rented autozone hand tool set; the lca bearing required a 20 ton press. A 10 ton press did precisely nothing.

 

[DB83]

I’m half done; one toe bearing and one lca bearing are in. The toe bearing was doable with the 23 piece rented autozone hand tool set; the lca bearing required a 20 ton press. A 10 ton press did precisely nothing.

Good to know! Thanks!!

 

[moffetts]

The second LCA bearing was barely troubled by the 20 ton press. I had to drill out the rubber, sawzall the inside of the metal part of the bushing, and then crush the exposed edge of the bushing in the vise to get it to break free. 5 out of 5 wrenches on the difficulty scale. This project took longer than the whipple install. Do not underestimate the difficulty.

 

[2018GT]

So I'm bringing this thread back to life

Question: For those that used a ball joint press. What did you use to hold(make contact) with the socket (1 1/4 or 33mm or 35mm..whatever you used)?

Thanks

 

[moffetts]

It was a 1 3/8 inch shallow socket on one side (to push the bushing out) and one of the spacers from the balljoint press kit on the other side (to allow the bushing to come out).

 

[2018GT]

It was a 1 3/8 inch shallow socket on one side (to push the bushing out) and one of the spacers from the balljoint press kit on the other side (to allow the bushing to come out).

Am I understanding this correctly: The blunt end of the 'screw' contacted the socket? There was no adapter (1/2 inch drive) to connect to the socket?

Thanks for the help!

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