No, the outer plate has shifted and is blocking the flywheel bolts, seems to have failed internally. I have been beating on it and cutting it for hours. Seems to be the only way to proceedAre you referring to the burn spots on the flywheel or replacing the clutch itself? I replaced mine about a year and a half ago.
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I appreciate y'alls help. Tried that, I have also cut the struts around that bearing in an attempt to get enough space to access the bolts. The problem is that the outer plate is riveted (9 silver rivets seen in pic) to the inner. I have also begun drilling those rivets but have absolutely nuked 3 drillbitsTry removing the circlip identified by the red arrow in this pic and see if that will allow access to the bolts.
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Solid idea, ive been smacking it with a 4lb sledge with no luck, starting to turn the motor over. I have no idea what would make it jam up this badly. Car was making a gnarly noise at idle too, shifted and drove fine.What about the 9 square slots in the flywheel, will they accept a 1/2” breaker bar to use as leverage to turn it, or are they too big/small?
This might be it. Plugs out + breaker bar attached to crank bolt left against the floor. This might allow enough movement to rotationally “impact” the flywheel loose.There has to be a way to lock the crank in tdc, likely via a special tool. With the crank locked, perhaps you can force the flywheel back into position.
Not sure if the coyote has a bolt in the front of the crank (I would assume it does, but have seen other ways to attach the harmonic damper and crank sprockets), but just make sure you don’t cause it to unscrew unknowingly doing it that way. You probably would really have to try hard to get that to happen, but I’ve seen a lot of things that “couldn’t happen”.This might be it. Plugs out + breaker bar attached to crank bolt left against the floor. This might allow enough movement to rotationally “impact” the flywheel loose.