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flywheel failure

JGUNTER

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Doing a clutch on my 2018, anyone had to deal with this before?

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NGOT8R

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Are you referring to the burn spots on the flywheel or replacing the clutch itself? I replaced mine about a year and a half ago.

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JGUNTER

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Are you referring to the burn spots on the flywheel or replacing the clutch itself? I replaced mine about a year and a half ago.

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No, the outer plate has shifted and is blocking the flywheel bolts, seems to have failed internally. I have been beating on it and cutting it for hours. Seems to be the only way to proceed
 

5doorsoffury

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I've seen dual mass flywheel failures before with ford. can you use a prybar to move the inner surface? it shouldn't be ratcheting but idk. maby the springs jammed it up just guessing since I'm baseing it off older ford parts.
 

NGOT8R

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Try removing the circlip identified by the red arrow in this pic and see if that will allow access to the bolts.

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JGUNTER

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Try removing the circlip identified by the red arrow in this pic and see if that will allow access to the bolts.

1721954652650-6c.jpg
I appreciate y'alls help. Tried that, I have also cut the struts around that bearing in an attempt to get enough space to access the bolts. The problem is that the outer plate is riveted (9 silver rivets seen in pic) to the inner. I have also begun drilling those rivets but have absolutely nuked 3 drillbits
 

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What about the 9 square slots in the flywheel, will they accept a 1/2” breaker bar to use as leverage to turn it, or are they too big/small?

Are the spark plugs still in the car too? I’d try removing those as well to see if that makes it easier to turn it.
 
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JGUNTER

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What about the 9 square slots in the flywheel, will they accept a 1/2” breaker bar to use as leverage to turn it, or are they too big/small?
Solid idea, ive been smacking it with a 4lb sledge with no luck, starting to turn the motor over. I have no idea what would make it jam up this badly. Car was making a gnarly noise at idle too, shifted and drove fine.


 

shogun32

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why not just throw the entire assembly away?
 
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JGUNTER

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why not just throw the entire assembly away?
I intend to but cant get it off the engine without removing the flywheel bolts. Its getting a Mcleod RST
 

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Buldawg76

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You will not be able to drill the rivets out since they are hardened steel and would require a carbide cutting tool bit to remove. It appears that the flywheel has shifted between the two parts, and I believe I can see a crack at the 7-8 o'clock position in your pic that is likely the noise you are hearing. I would suggest using a cut off wheel on a handheld grinder or dremel and cut the bridges out between the holes for the bolts to gain access to remove the bolts. It won't be pretty or easy but will allow you to get the flywheel off the crank. The snap ring mentioned is to remove the pilot bearing from the flywheel with a press or big hammer.

BD
 

Weyland-Yutani

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Cool problem! Is it possible/safe to lock the starter ring? Maybe you could make a tool. Like flat bar long enough for leverage and thread 2 fat allen bolts that would span the distance between opposing round holes. Allen head outside diameters should be close (but smaller) than ID of the round holes. Might have to stack a couple of washers to clear the bearing flange and get enough meat in the holes. Like this...

flywheel spanner.webp
 

Mike Pfeifer

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There has to be a way to lock the crank in tdc, likely via a special tool. With the crank locked, perhaps you can force the flywheel back into position.
 

17MagMetal

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There has to be a way to lock the crank in tdc, likely via a special tool. With the crank locked, perhaps you can force the flywheel back into position.
This might be it. Plugs out + breaker bar attached to crank bolt left against the floor. This might allow enough movement to rotationally “impact” the flywheel loose.
 

Mike Pfeifer

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This might be it. Plugs out + breaker bar attached to crank bolt left against the floor. This might allow enough movement to rotationally “impact” the flywheel loose.
Not sure if the coyote has a bolt in the front of the crank (I would assume it does, but have seen other ways to attach the harmonic damper and crank sprockets), but just make sure you don’t cause it to unscrew unknowingly doing it that way. You probably would really have to try hard to get that to happen, but I’ve seen a lot of things that “couldn’t happen”.
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