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Waldorf

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Did my compact install on a set of ramps, no problems. The bolt that's been mentioned that's a PITA will come out if you pull down on the tailshaft and move it to the side so the head of the bolt moves towards the rear of the car. Same for re-insertion. 10mm ratchet wrench is a must. No added vibration to the car, unless your hand's on the shifter. No added noise. Power shifts great, downshifts are superb. Best single item I've added to the car. You WILL like it... a lot!

That is all...
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db252

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Just did my MGW install a few days ago and it is beyond better than my expectations. The install was actually easy as far as my experience and I think what helped is that I had cut my exhaust for axel backs so the stock mufflers/pipe were already out which allowed for much more movement of the transmission. I placed the 1/2 inch bolt that connects to the trans with the MGW shaft from the top through the tunnel hole and the 10mm bolt was a non-issue because of the extra drop. If you already have that type of setup, I recommend disconnecting the axle backs to create that extra help. Perfect shifts and has made driving it an even better experience.
 
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Obsol3te

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:) She looks good!
The install will happen this weekend
20160126_202005.webp
 
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MGW

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Hey guys,

thanks for the kind words ...i just cannot believe that for about 30 bucks difference that ANYONE would opt for anything but the race spec... its nuts. :doh:


race spec...

billet cnc machined linkage rod not using oem junk

fully trans mounted included in the price not an optional upgrade

does not re use factory springs, pivot cups, linkage cups, roll pins etc...

George
 

Waldorf

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Hey guys,

thanks for the kind words ...i just cannot beleive that for about 30 bucks difference that ANYONE would opt for anything but the race spec... its nuts. :doh:
I'll second that! :thumbsup:

That is all...
"Skippy"
 

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TheDivaDanielle

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mine came in today.... it's so beautiful.



as soon as my new shift knob comes in from Epco, it'll be installed, though part of me just wanted to get the MGW knob, but having had Epco's in the past on three cars, I'm kind of a forever customer of theirs.
 

USPSALIMITED

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Just watched the installation videos today. Nicely done.

What happens if the connection that gets red loctite ever needs to be taken apart ?
 

Waldorf

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Just watched the installation videos today. Nicely done.

What happens if the connection that gets red loctite ever needs to be taken apart ?
On the "red", I've used either some PB Blaster (let it set) if there's anything rubber or flammable around it, or a propane torch to heat it otherwise. It only bonds up to ~500 degrees.

Best of luck!
That is all...
 

TheDivaDanielle

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there's always the idea of not going crazy with the locktite too! like a drop or two, not slathered by the whole bottle.
 

USPSALIMITED

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there's always the idea of not going crazy with the locktite too!
?
I thought it was sort of digital. You apply it to the threads, it gets spread over pretty much all the threaded area and the excess gets pushed out in the process of tightening the connection, or you do not.
 

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Waldorf

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there's always the idea of not going crazy with the locktite too! like a drop or two, not slathered by the whole bottle.
Yep.

USPSALIMITED... The use of red on that one MGW bolt is to keep it there so it doesn't vibrate loose. Remember, you'll be applying torque to tighten it, not just "finger tight". All you'll need is one or two drops... just enough to encompass about 3 threads on the end. Here, more is NOT better. The shifter doesn't cause any vibration, it just picks it up from the transmission because it's mounted directly to the transmission. It's mounted there so that it is always working in the same plane when the transmission moves with engine torque. That's why it's the best on the market. That, and it's superbly machined and finished.

The OEM shifter is mounted to the body (dosen't move) and the transmission end of the linkage is mounted to the tranny, which does. It's often working in varying planes, the cause of hard shifting and sometimes not getting it into gear. You WON'T have those problems with the MGW. Had mine in almost 2 months of daily driving and it's never let me down. Power shifts every time I've tried it, and downshifting is superb. It knows where I want it to go before I move it.

That is all...
 

USPSALIMITED

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Yep.

USPSALIMITED... The use of red on that one MGW bolt is to keep it there so it doesn't vibrate loose. Remember, you'll be applying torque to tighten it, not just "finger tight". All you'll need is one or two drops... just enough to encompass about 3 threads on the end. Here, more is NOT better. The shifter doesn't cause any vibration, it just picks it up from the transmission because it's mounted directly to the transmission. It's mounted there so that it is always working in the same plane when the transmission moves with engine torque. That's why it's the best on the market. That, and it's superbly machined and finished.

The OEM shifter is mounted to the body (dosen't move) and the transmission end of the linkage is mounted to the tranny, which does. It's often working in varying planes, the cause of hard shifting and sometimes not getting it into gear. You WON'T have those problems with the MGW. Had mine in almost 2 months of daily driving and it's never let me down. Power shifts every time I've tried it, and downshifting is superb. It knows where I want it to go before I move it.

That is all...
Aok to all of that, but, one or two drops seems like more than enough to completely fill the very small gap between the threaded components, so I am not seeing that a gallon would provide a different result than one or two drops (except for the mess on the floor).

I'm not knocking anything with this question, just trying to figure out if I will be in deep shit if I ever need to take things apart down the road.
 

BTM

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+1 on the MGW Race Spec. Everything said previously in the thread is true, and these are my observations;

-the design, materials, and workmanship are absolutely top-notch, and I say this as a manufacturing engineer in a previous life. It's a shame that no one can see it once installed, I literally think it is the best-engineered and -built piece on my car

-the install was easy, I did it by myself on jackstands (under Steeda jacking rails - also a must-have if you don't have a lift, for any work under the car). MGW has a very detailed Youtube video, just follow step by step. The only challenge I had is that I forgot to install the rubber boot onto the shifter body before inserting from the top cutout, and I had already bolted and loctited everything in place before I realized that. So I missed on one of the key advantages of the new Compact design, which is the ability to put that boot on while you have easy access to the retaining groove on the shifter itself. It was a cold day, and even with silicone tire spray and dish soap, I fought the boot way too much. Finally just used a heat gun on low setting to make more pliable - nothing damaged. I'm 6'7" and do not have small hands at all, but I had zero issues accessing any fasteners. I did do a cat-back at the same time, so my exhaust from cats back was deinstalled, maybe this is the difference in getting enough down-travel on the tranny to make room above.

-Feel and operation are PERFECT! It literally feels just like my old Fox with a T-5 and short shifter. No more noodley vagueness, spot-on effort and throw length, and I actually like the push-down reverse lockout better than the stock pull-ring.

-The shifter is so good that it actually highlights a clutch weakness, which is that it drags on disengagement. This makes high rpm and quick shifts harder than they should be, and it is no fault of the shifter. I can smell the burning clutch plates when I drive hard, which seems to support that conclusion (and of others on this site). Got a braided steel clutch line waiting to be installed in my garage....should help with that.

Thanks MGW for making an awesome product that delivers on all promises!

BTW, my dad builds very nice airplanes for fun, and when he saw the MGW shifter assembly, he said, "wow, that looks expensive!" - which is a huge compliment considering the quality and precision of parts he works with in aviation
 
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MGW

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mine came in today.... it's so beautiful.



as soon as my new shift knob comes in from Epco, it'll be installed, though part of me just wanted to get the MGW knob, but having had Epco's in the past on three cars, I'm kind of a forever customer of theirs.
We get our white and black shift balls from EPCO also !!! They are a great company !!:headbang::headbang:

George
 

MGW

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Aok to all of that, but, one or two drops seems like more than enough to completely fill the very small gap between the threaded components, so I am not seeing that a gallon would provide a different result than one or two drops (except for the mess on the floor).

I'm not knocking anything with this question, just trying to figure out if I will be in deep shit if I ever need to take things apart down the road.


The red loctite on a 5/16 size bolt will break loose easily with just a normal ratchet. The holding power of loctite is relative to the size bolt .

I break them loose on my shifters all the time.


George
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