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ESS kit install issues.

SheepDog

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Would I be able to check through the oil cap with a mirror for timing marks? Or maybe just the bank1 valve cover to check? Or am I basically just gonna have to take it all apart?
You wont know where the crankshaft is in relation to the camshaft by only removing the valve cover
 
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TheButterBomber

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You said that you had a friend do the timing job. Was this done at the dealership on book time, or on his own time? It isn't really a very difficult job per se, but it is mandatory that specific steps are followed to ensure the timing in accurate on both banks
Own time. And used ford’s instructions on PTS.
 

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Some times when you got to many hands in the pot things go sideways you said many people checked the marks something must have been missed, improperly aligned, or left loose
 
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Some times when you got to many hands in the pot things go sideways you said many people checked the marks something must have been missed, improperly aligned, or left loose
I mean every single step was followed to Ford’s own instructions. I personally even looked over everything and checked all the timing marks and torque specs. We were very anal about it all. Cause we definitely didn’t wanna do it again. That’s also just how I am about my car. I truly don’t understand what could be the issue or what went wrong. But obviously there is an issue to find.
 

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Swtbabybilly

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Im sorry bro and i believe u but shit happens unfortunately maybe the tensioner took a shit on you, maybe it was just a cunt hair off alignment, thr are a million things that can happen that arent your fault dont beat yourself up to much over it, i know thats alot easier said then done but we have all been thr
 
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TheButterBomber

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I’m going to begin the teardown right now, I’ll post updates along the way. There’s got to be an issue that formed and I’ll get to the bottom of it. I appreciate all of you. I don’t know where I would be right now without this community’s help and knowledge. Should have a good chunk done by the end of the night.
 

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Continuation of my previous post #135. as far as I understand. A Miss-fire code won’t always be triggered as the ECU detects a de-acceleration of the piston while under power. If your cam timing is off , it won’t fire as the fuel is going out your exhaust. Also if it need a crank re-learn miss-fire code also sometimes won’t be operational.
I’ve had my gen 2 engine out 2x and just about to do a 3rd and I’ve never done a crank re-learn. Alway run like a clock.

As far as timing. If you only a tooth out the ECU will compensate via VTC , But if your a lot or missed one of the rotation steps you could be many degree’s out. It might run ok in the lower rpm and higher rpm it will just not want to run.

In this case your car was running perfect before you pulled it apart , so a compression test won’t achieve much imo.
If you take valve covers off and put the crank at TDC at least you can see that your marks are lined up on the cams.
 
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TheButterBomber

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Continuation of my previous post #135. as far as I understand. A Miss-fire code always be triggered as the ECU detects a de-acceleration of the piston while under power. If your cam timing is off , it won’t fire as the fuel is going out your exhaust. Also if it need a crank re-learn miss-fire code also sometimes won’t be operational.
I’ve had my gen 2 engine out 2x and just about to do a 3rd and I’ve never done a crank re-learn. Alway run like a clock.

As far as timing. If you only a tooth out the ECU will compensate via VTC , But if your a lot or missed one of the rotation steps you could be many degree’s out. It might run ok in the lower rpm and higher rpm it will just not want to run.

In this case your car was running perfect before you pulled it apart , so a compression test won’t achieve much imo.
If you take valve covers off and put the crank at TDC at least you can see that your marks are lined up on the cams.
I was debating if I could just see the timing marks on the cams for reference before I go further. I can post them when I see it. Another thing I wonder is if the new fuel pump+booster/spark plug gap could be factoring in how rough it is right now? Even on stock tune? I assume not.

I was told to do a crank relearn by my buddy, as well as by Lund. But seeing how much fuel is coming and how horribly it wants to die out + backfire after simply running on its own/at the release of any throttle. I’m not sure how i feel about revving it to 4k+ rpm. It’s choppy, pours fuel out, all the misfire codes half the time/cam codes constantly all on bank 1 the o2 sensor on bank 1. I rather be safe than sorry now.

I’ll post the teeth marking soon with an update. I’ll go from there.
 

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TheButterBomber

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Any chance it's a tune for e85?
They wanted me to use the 115mm pulley on 93 pump.
I’ve asked the tuner 2-3 times about the fueling involved in the tune and they say it’s a build issue. And asked me to take a look at the o2 sensor.
 
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