ESS kit install issues.

[TheButterBomber]

I wouldn't worry about the tuning part right now

The MAF sensor can only be installed into the MAF tube in one direction, but the tube itself can be installed backwards.

I'm going to bet that you do have the belt routed incorrectly.

The sensor is correct, and the belt is routed correctly. I’m underneath right now looking everything over.

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[TheButterBomber]

Am I supposed to block off the brake booster line? That’s what I’m being told to do.

 

[robvas]

Make sure the pulleys are aligned with a straight edge or laser tool if you can borrow one

 

[TheButterBomber]

 

[SheepDog]

Am I supposed to block off the brake booster line? That’s what I’m being told to do.

Does that really make sense? How would the booster do it's job if it isn't getting manifold vacuum? (That capped tube behind your intake manifold is not the booster line)

You may very well have a vacuum leak that is causing it to run rough, or not idle. Did you remove the intake manifold to do the IMRC delete?

 

[TheButterBomber]

Does that really make sense? How would the booster do it's job if it isn't getting manifold vacuum? (That capped tube behind your intake manifold is not the booster line)

You may very well have a vacuum leak that is causing it to run rough, or not idle. Did you remove the intake manifold to do the IMRC delete?

That’s what I’m saying it both ESS and Lund both aren’t any help, and simply say block off everything but the blowoff line. And there’s no guides online.

 

[TheButterBomber]

Does that really make sense? How would the booster do it's job if it isn't getting manifold vacuum? (That capped tube behind your intake manifold is not the booster line)

You may very well have a vacuum leak that is causing it to run rough, or not idle. Did you remove the intake manifold to do the IMRC delete?

Yes I did remove the intake and there’s been no signs of leak from it. These vacuum lines are making no sense for where to place them. So it’s either going to have a vacuum leak or be plugged off.

 

[SheepDog]

As for the belt. You might want to remove it, and verify that all of the ESS pulleys, idler, Water pump, Alternator spin freely.

Did you do the IMRC delete at the same time as the ESS install?

 

[TheButterBomber]

As for the belt. You might want to remove it, and verify that all of the ESS pulleys, idler, Water pump, Alternator spin freely.

Did you do the IMRC delete at the same time as the ESS install?

I made sure all pulleys spin freely, and it seems the tensioner doesn’t have to move much at all to get the belt on. I have the correct belt for the correct pulley, and they correct layout too.

yes the IMRC lockout was installed during the ESS kit install as I was told by Lund that they typically only work with boosted cars that have it and told me to get it.

 

[SheepDog]

Yes I did remove the intake and there’s been no signs of leak from it. These vacuum lines are making no sense for where to place them. So it’s either going to have a vacuum leak or be plugged off.

Take a picture of the line that Lund is telling you to plug/cap. This is the brake booster line

 

[SheepDog]

it seems the tensioner doesn’t have to move much at all to get the belt on

It should be tight, and at about 75-80% of it's travel. Meaning only another 20% or so before it is completely maxed out

 

[SheepDog]

Another place that I have seen people cause an unintended vacuum leak, is at the BOV. Either by pinching or losing the O-ring that goes in there, or by not installing the crush washers correctly on the banjo fitting. You should always start the car for the first time with bumper still off of the car to check for leaks anyway

 

[TheButterBomber]

Take a picture of the line that Lund is telling you to plug/cap. This is the brake booster line

the brake booster line feeds to the line at the front of the manifold, and is a single line straight shot to the back that connects to nothing else but where the IMRC solenoid was that then connected to the IMRC.

I also attached a photo of the solenoid.

 

[TheButterBomber]

It should be tight, and at about 75-80% of it's travel. Meaning only another 20% or so before it is completely maxed out

Definitely not the case. It barely has to travel.

 

[TheButterBomber]

Another place that I have seen people cause an unintended vacuum leak, is at the BOV. Either by pinching or losing the O-ring that goes in there, or by not installing the crush washers correctly on the banjo fitting. You should always start the car for the first time with bumper still off of the car to check for leaks anyway

There were no leaks for the blowoff, and I was very careful with that O ring like it was surgery I remember it.

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