Engine ticking / knocking... Help!

[emh87]

So I have had this ticking / knocking noise just start out of no where on my car. The car has been procharged for about 12k miles, no track yet, just a few dyno pulls. You cannot here the noise on a cold start, but that could be because of the higher RPM / procharger. It seems to be apparent most of the time after the car is warmed up at idle. It also seems to randomly come and go, but mainly there. It seems to be louder on the passenger side wheel well, but that could be because of the procharger being so loud on the driver side.

Here is a video I just took.

[ame]

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

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[whatsup62]

Sounds a lot like this......
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49344
Hope not!

 

[5.0 Probie]

Well... It is all over the place. It needs to be diagnosed in person.

Here is what I do...

If you have a broom that you can remove the head on to just have the handle left over, Place the "Tip" (Where the broom head was" on the top of each header/exhaust tub closest to the head. Place the other end tightly in your fist and place the end of the broom handle against your ear.

Now I do realize you may need a ladder if you use a full size broom. Please do not be that silly and recognize I am offering the concept... The idea is the same, as long as the stick you use is a solid one, it works to pin point mechanical issues or exhaust noise.

That is where I would start.

It sounds a lot like a spark plug arcing on a header, exhaust leak or a valve that has seen better days...

 

[Gibbo205]

It kind of sounds too tappy to be rod knock but it could be. :(
The fact it does not do it when cold points towards rod knock unfortunately. :(

If you gently rev the car does the knocking speed up and then go away with some gentle revs say 1500-2000rpm and then return once the car idles? Any low oil pressure warnings?

What was the RPM limit set at in the tune and how fresh is your oil and what oil?

 

[Travis@boostworks]

Ticking intervals seem too close together/fast to be rod knock. Does the sound remain when you push the clutch pedal in?

 

[emh87]

Well... It is all over the place. It needs to be diagnosed in person.

Here is what I do...

If you have a broom that you can remove the head on to just have the handle left over, Place the "Tip" (Where the broom head was" on the top of each header/exhaust tub closest to the head. Place the other end tightly in your fist and place the end of the broom handle against your ear.

Now I do realize you may need a ladder if you use a full size broom. Please do not be that silly and recognize I am offering the concept... The idea is the same, as long as the stick you use is a solid one, it works to pin point mechanical issues or exhaust noise.

That is where I would start.

It sounds a lot like a spark plug arcing on a header, exhaust leak or a valve that has seen better days...

Thanks for the info, I will look into these ideas.

It kind of sounds too tappy to be rod knock but it could be. :(
The fact it does not do it when cold points towards rod knock unfortunately. :(

If you gently rev the car does the knocking speed up and then go away with some gentle revs say 1500-2000rpm and then return once the car idles? Any low oil pressure warnings?

What was the RPM limit set at in the tune and how fresh is your oil and what oil?

If I gently rev it, it just gets faster with the revving, but it can't be heard after like 1500+ due to the procharger, or it really is gone above there. :shrug:
The rev limiter was originally set really high, but I've had it lowered to 7400 a while back. The oil probably has about 5-6k miles on it now, and it is 5w20 royal purple.

Ticking intervals seem too close together/fast to be rod knock. Does the sound remain when you push the clutch pedal in?

The sound does remain when I push in the clutch.

One of my friends that heard it said the first things that came to mind for him were timing chain guides, cam phasers, or secondary chain tensioner.

 

[desant89]

Man I know I have heard that sound. Definitely does not sound like a knock to me. More of a tap for sure. I recall having an exhaust leak that sounded just like that. These guys know much more than me in here. Just been through a lot of different malfunctions owning over 50 cars that you get to hear a lot of these things.....Good luck! Hopefully nothing too bad.

 

[Weather Man]

Pull the plugs and scope. Compression and leakdown test also. Try and eliminate one thing at a time. Have to find it before it becomes more expensive.

 

[Gibbo205]

Get the car on axle stands, start it up and let it warm until it start knocking / tapping and then crawl underneath the car and see if it seems louder from under the car than it does above.

If it is louder below the car put your ear close to the block and see if it comes from bottom end and also at same time check to make sure no exhaust lose bolts, heat shields etc.

Also check from above everything is tight.

Or better still get it recovered to a local shop for diagnosis and keep us informed please.


P.S. If no luck, shut off and drop the oil, inspect it for glitter/sparkles of a silver/copper colour. If you can't see any remove filter and cut it in half an inspect the filter element again for sparkles/glitter. This is shell/rod bearing material.

 

[turbo50]

Sound valve train related, like the chain is slapping something

 

[emh87]

I have an update! So yesterday I did an oil change on it and used some valvoline 5w20 synthetic, and started it up, and zero noise at all. Drove it for about 15 minutes, no noise. Parked it for about 30 minutes, came back out, started it up, and the noise was there again. But now the noise goes away after driving it for even a minute, and doesn't come back until the next start up.

So I got a hold of one of my friends, he told me to bring him a sample of the oil that I drained. So I brought him it, and right away he knew what the issue most likely was. The oil had a very strong smell of gasoline, and was broken down really bad, and thin. It was so bad that it could be lit of fire rather easily. He also said he was 100% sure it is the timing tensioner causing the noise, from the crappy oil. Now he is recommending that I change the oil again today, because it still has a strong gas smell, from the left over oil that didn't get drained from the engine. Also I would like to note it was a pretty hard driving 5,000 miles, so it makes sense that the oil would be bad. So if this is the issue I guess I will just be changing the oil a little more frequently. Has anyone else had issues with this with the upgraded fuel system, or do you all change your oil really early?

At least on the good note it is definitely not rod knock.

 

[Gibbo205]

I have an update! So yesterday I did an oil change on it and used some valvoline 5w20 synthetic, and started it up, and zero noise at all. Drove it for about 15 minutes, no noise. Parked it for about 30 minutes, came back out, started it up, and the noise was there again. But now the noise goes away after driving it for even a minute, and doesn't come back until the next start up.

So I got a hold of one of my friends, he told me to bring him a sample of the oil that I drained. So I brought him it, and right away he knew what the issue most likely was. The oil had a very strong smell of gasoline, and was broken down really bad, and thin. It was so bad that it could be lit of fire rather easily. He also said he was 100% sure it is the timing tensioner causing the noise, from the crappy oil. Now he is recommending that I change the oil again today, because it still has a strong gas smell, from the left over oil that didn't get drained from the engine. Also I would like to note it was a pretty hard driving 5,000 miles, so it makes sense that the oil would be bad. So if this is the issue I guess I will just be changing the oil a little more frequently. Has anyone else had issues with this with the upgraded fuel system, or do you all change your oil really early?

At least on the good note it is definitely not rod knock.

If your getting fuel dilution buddy then your tune must be off, get it on a dyno and get the AFR properly monitored, sounds to me like the tune is set miles to rich and causing oil dilution which does exactly what your buddy has told you.

If I were you I'd put the best 5W-20 you can get and not take the car above 3000RPM and avoid short journeys, get it to a dyno and get the AFR monitored as it must be running pig rich.

Does your car smell of gasoline if you stand behind it and someone revs it, does the exhaust go black after a few days etc?

 

[z06psi]

does the exhaust go black after a few days etc?

Mine does but having no cats is also an effect of it as well.

 

[emh87]

New update: I changed the oil again yesterday, and now the noise is 100% gone!

 

[Gibbo205]

New update: I changed the oil again yesterday, and now the noise is 100% gone!

Until the fuel dilutes it again.

Do you do lots of short journeys in the car?

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