Engine breakin protocol

[Lexist2112]

THought I throw this question out there. I'm figuring that Ford will have in their owners manual, an engine break in protocol. I'm guessing, first 1000 miles, vary rpm's between 3-4K???? After 1000 mile engine break in, change out the oil, to fresh synthetic.

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[jdub.csu]

I beat the crap out of my motors. If they are going to fail then might as well be when I have a warranty before I start modding it. The motor is already dyno'd from the factory I believe.

 

[arsenalrocks]

the first service @1200miles for manual ///M cars also includes changing of engine/tranny/diff fluids, which is what I plan to do when reaching that mileage.

THought I throw this question out there. I'm figuring that Ford will have in their owners manual, an engine break in protocol. I'm guessing, first 1000 miles, vary rpm's between 3-4K???? After 1000 mile engine break in, change out the oil, to fresh synthetic.

 

[matrix243]

No break-in needed for the engine, but probably other components.

 

[jcalvert86]

1) Fasten seat belt
2) Rev to 8200 rpm with exhaust valve open
3) ???
4) Profit


Break in complete.

 

[Toodles]

^^^ that. That's how I've always broken mine in and it's worked so far. lol

 

[Honus]

I'll wager break in has a protocol for the first 1000 miles. Boss engines recommended driving with revs all over the map for that period. I'm guessing this will be the same.

I will guess that the oil change recommendation will remain, "when the computer asks you to," though.

 

[ITLRUN]

I will pull out of the dealership "slideways" with white smoke boiling off the rear tires... Mark My Words. I will drive the snot out of this car.

 

[PonyPower]

1) Fasten seat belt
2) Rev to 8200 rpm with exhaust valve open
3) ???
4) Profit


Break in complete.

I will pull out of the dealership "slideways" with white smoke boiling off the rear tires... Mark My Words. I will drive the snot out of this car.

As a Ford employee, this makes me happy lol. :ford:

 

[Tony Alonso]

I will pull out of the dealership "slideways" with white smoke boiling off the rear tires...

Only to replace them 3 weeks later because they will be worn



To the OP - just as any production naturally aspirated Ford engine that I've seen in the last 20 years of buying Mustangs, I expect this one to be no different, even with a flat-plane crank configuration, in terms of varying engine speeds over the first 1000 miles. I wouldn't want to hit the rev limiter to early, but it's going to be hard to not send that baby singing the high notes!

 

[Hack]

Vary engine RPM, no long trips at a steady RPM. Load the engine (full throttle pulls as well as closed throttle deceleration to load the rings). Avoid winding to high RPM. Change the oil when Ford recommends.

That's what I will do.

 

[Grimace427]

The only time I avoid high RPM's is when the engine is cold.


Or when cops are around.

 

[w3rkn]

New engines have to break-in period, because there are metal to metal surfaces and these metals are finding their tolerances. You can take a new engine all over the map once it is heated.

Breaking in an engine is not about maintaining certain RPMs, it is about not putting load on the engine at wrong moments.


Again, once the engine is heated up you can sit at 5k rpms on the highway for 20m and it won't do a thing. But on a cold start and moments later pulling hard to 5k rpms will cause different wear. The kind that makes deeper grove and not a polishing effect.

 

[Hack]

New engines have to break-in period, because there are metal to metal surfaces and these metals are finding their tolerances. You can take a new engine all over the map once it is heated.

Breaking in an engine is not about maintaining certain RPMs, it is about not putting load on the engine at wrong moments.


Again, once the engine is heated up you can sit at 5k rpms on the highway for 20m and it won't do a thing. But on a cold start and moments later pulling hard to 5k rpms will cause different wear. The kind that makes deeper grove and not a polishing effect.

Not trying to insult or anything but I do have some disagreement with this. Let me try to explain.

Varying RPMs is done because there are components inside the engine that are oiled by splash. The pattern, volume and direction of oil splashing around inside the engine changes by RPM. That's one reason why varying the RPM is good.

Another reason for varying RPM is that constant RPM (on the street) means there is virtually zero load on the engine. This is not the best situation for brand new rings and bores. Yes, the rings mostly seat immediately on fire up, but the break-in period is a good time to thoroughly and completely seat the rings if you want the most power from the engine through its life. The rings get loaded when you are accelerating or decelerating the car using the engine.

High RPM exerts extreme loads on the engine. All surfaces have high spots that gradually get worn down through friction. If you put extreme loads on the engine with high RPM, those high spots get hammered down quickly. If you wait and keep the RPM down for the first 1,000 miles, the high spots generally get worn down more gradually.

You can do what you want with your engine, but I have solid reasons for my choices.

 

[w3rkn]

Not trying to insult or anything but I do have some disagreement with this. Let me try to explain.

Varying RPMs is done because there are components inside the engine that are oiled by splash. The pattern, volume and direction of oil splashing around inside the engine changes by RPM. That's one reason why varying the RPM is good.

Another reason for varying RPM is that constant RPM (on the street) means there is virtually zero load on the engine. This is not the best situation for brand new rings and bores. Yes, the rings mostly seat immediately on fire up, but the break-in period is a good time to thoroughly and completely seat the rings if you want the most power from the engine through its life. The rings get loaded when you are accelerating or decelerating the car using the engine.

High RPM exerts extreme loads on the engine. All surfaces have high spots that gradually get worn down through friction. If you put extreme loads on the engine with high RPM, those high spots get hammered down quickly. If you wait and keep the RPM down for the first 1,000 miles, the high spots generally get worn down more gradually.

You can do what you want with your engine, but I have solid reasons for my choices.

I think you completely misunderstood what I said.

Varying engine speed and load, IS A GIVEN... It is also better to induce such loads on the engine and components when the engine is heated up.

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