Engine breakin protocol

[Trackaholic]

Jesus--are some of you guys really that damn stupid or just spouting off on topics you know nothing about on the internet?

Peak HP falls away well BEFORE REDLINE...running an engine to redline is beyond DUMB.

And yeah, the car's computer catches such events and records them...early engine failure and Ford is gonna hand YOU the repair bill.

But where do the RPMs go when you shift? Running this engine to redline makes total sense.

Also, the car has a rev limiter, and won't allow an over-rev caused by throttle application. People tracking this car will likely bounce off the limiter on many occasions (accidentally of course).

The case to be concerned about is over revving due to a missed shift, but that's a different argument.

You post with a lot of anger and condescension, but you sort of fit the profile of those you disparage in your first sentence. Lighten up Francis.


-T

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[Hack]

"Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body(mustang:ford, but rather to skid in broadside in a cloud of smoke, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming "Wow! What a Ride!"
~Hunter S. Thompson

That dude has no idea what he's talking about. It's a line fat people use as an excuse for why they ate three extra burgers at lunch their whole life. You can eat what you want - just not EVERYTHING you want, and have a lot better quality of life. Have your health and enjoy life more than someone who messed themselves up and can barely walk a flight of stairs in their 50s, or keeled over dead at 40 something.

There's something to be said for knowing your limits - having fun but not overdoing it. There's plenty of fun to be had in a car - you don't have to try to break it in the first 1,000 miles. A proper break in will give you a car with more power and longer life - more fun through the life of the car. But hey - it's your car - do what you want.

 

[Grimace427]

My friend has an S2000 with the 2.0, 9000 RPM engine, and the break-in was similar to what you describe. I don't remember the exact RPM and mileage limits, but I think the goal was to avoid engaging the VTEC cam until the engine had seen several heat and oiling cycles.

If there is a specific reason for a break-in protocol such as a VTEC solenoid or some such, then I can agree with that. However the vague "it's a high performance engine so it needs to be broken in" excuse doesn't fly with me.

I would not go more than 1000 miles before the first oil change..

Most viper owner change the oil in the first 500 miles...just saying

Just going off of other M6G owners and even original Coyote who did early oil changes, there seems to be a lot of issues with that idea such as ticking. I would much rather wait until the normal service interval before changing the oil.

Being a dealer tech with Benz I've done hundreds of first oil changes and have cut apart several filters for inspection. I've never seen a single fleck of metal in a filter. Now that's no Blackstone analysis of course, but getting metal shavings out with an early oil change is more paranoia(no offense guys) than prudence in my opinion.

Jesus--are some of you guys really that damn stupid or just spouting off on topics you know nothing about on the internet?

Peak HP falls away well BEFORE REDLINE...running an engine to redline is beyond DUMB.

And yeah, the car's computer catches such events and records them...early engine failure and Ford is gonna hand YOU the repair bill.

:lol: I can pick this post apart like a brisket but it isn't necessary.

 

[JGRoush]

That dude has no idea what he's talking about. It's a line fat people use as an excuse for why they ate three extra burgers at lunch their whole life. You can eat what you want - just not EVERYTHING you want, and have a lot better quality of life. Have your health and enjoy life more than someone who messed themselves up and can barely walk a flight of stairs in their 50s, or keeled over dead at 40 something.

There's something to be said for knowing your limits - having fun but not overdoing it. There's plenty of fun to be had in a car - you don't have to try to break it in the first 1,000 miles. A proper break in will give you a car with more power and longer life - more fun through the life of the car. But hey - it's your car - do what you want.

Ya you guessed it I'm pretty hefty at 160lbs...lol. Obviously your sarcasism radar isn't working. Quit being such a bore!

 

[Strokerswild]

To expand a little on my previous post regarding aggressive break-in, some bits regarding one of my motorcycles, a 2006 Harley VRSCR:

I bought the bike new, and went with my typical break-in “protocol” of just making sure it was up to full operating temp and not sparing the throttle from there. I had it on a dyno after break-in at just under 1,000 miles, and it made 112 at the tire. Since the bike was rated at 120 at the crank, I was thinking the dyno might be a little on the happy side (and still do). However, the tech asked what I had done to it since it was pretty stout compared to what he usually sees out of a V-Rod, and was amazed that it was bone stock. Hmm, proper break-in, maybe? I later added a high-flow filter element, lost the airbox inner cover, drilled the stock muffler end caps for better flow, added a Power Commander with my own map, and was rewarded with a best of 120.3 the following year (and won my class in a dyno shootout, taking home $125). Again, the tech (same one, same dyno) was pretty impressed with the bike and what it was putting down.

At some point, I began reading scathing posts on a V-Rod forum about Harley’s own recommended oil and how a lot of guys were seeing oil in their airboxes, and were blaming it on the oil. (In other words, a typically worthless oil thread.) I have run this particular oil in my bike since Day 1, and have yet to see one drop of oil in the airbox or any trace of it. Again, proper break-in, maybe? In these threads I then went on to essentially state how some of these guys must ride like their Grandmothers, to great effect.

This bike now has north of 11K miles on it and doesn’t use a drop of oil, nor does it push out any trace out the breather or into the airbox. Still pulls like a damn train too. Just one of many engines I have broken in aggressively with great results. It’s piped and re-mapped now, and I really should get it back on that dyno again….

Sure, you can break in your engine like Grandma, but don’t count on it to be the best it can be.

 

[Lexist2112]

When I bought my STi, it was reported in the Subaru community that the company had placed a breakin oil and many would not redline the motor, until after a 1000 mile oil change to full synthetic.

I followed that protocol, thus far the motor has been wicked strong and no ringland or bearing failures. Granted, those could happen when some have installed a OTS map to retune the motor to new engine mods. Even then it ws recommended to have a protune from Cobb or a certified protuner.

Although the FPC is not a turbo engine, I plan to follow the recommended service for this car, while it is under warranty. At the very least if anything happens, Ford will back the product.

On a side note...I wonder how many of the BMW ///M-drivers feel that Ford has a NA, high-revving V-8.:cheers:

 

[w3rkn]

Maybe I did.

Avoid idling the engine for long periods, especially during the first 1,000 miles. That will tend to glaze the cylinders because the rings aren't being loaded.

I agree loads are better when the engine is warm in theory, but the best way to warm the engine up quickly is to load the engine.

High RPM during the first 1,000 miles is better to avoid as well. I'm not saying you will destroy the engine revving it. Of course you won't. But if you want it to make the most power and last a long time you will do best by waiting until you are past 1,000 miles for that.

:doh:



Buy a car, take it out for a 3h drive....

At the 2 hour mark, unload & work that engine. Take it to max RPM, launch it on starts. Dog it, re-load it up, run high RPMS, etc...

Then spend 45m cooling it down on the highways before parking it.


You do not have to wait until any specific mile to bang on your engine, you just have to have it fully up to temperature, before doing anything silly.



Do any of this 20m after you've just started it (on a new engine) for a daily commute... is what will harm your engine the most.

 

[krt22]

Just going off of other M6G owners and even original Coyote who did early oil changes, there seems to be a lot of issues with that idea such as ticking. I would much rather wait until the normal service interval before changing the oil.

Being a dealer tech with Benz I've done hundreds of first oil changes and have cut apart several filters for inspection. I've never seen a single fleck of metal in a filter. Now that's no Blackstone analysis of course, but getting metal shavings out with an early oil change is more paranoia(no offense guys) than prudence in my opinion.

I did mine around 1500 and had/have no issues thus far. Now of course I didnt go banging it off the rev limited, but I also didnt granny shift the whole time.

Now I don't expect to have any visible metal shavings (its not a damn C7 Z06 ) but I would imagine to see elevated metal levels if you did run a blackstone analysis.

 

[royo]

Break them in hard they run hard. It always worked for me.

 

[Grimace427]

INow I don't expect to have any visible metal shavings (its not a damn C7 Z06 ) but I would imagine to see elevated metal levels if you did run a blackstone analysis.

C7Z06 guys are probably pulling entire rods and pistons out of their first oil change. :lol:

 

[krt22]

In that case, the oil drains itself

 

[Spa2k]

C7Z06 guys are probably pulling entire rods and pistons out of their first oil change. :lol:

That's really unfair to say.

Entire rods and pistons wouldn't fit through the hole for the oil drain plug. However, the replacement engines probably have new oil in them. Does that count as an oil change? :headbonk:

 

[Hack]

:doh:



Buy a car, take it out for a 3h drive....

At the 2 hour mark, unload & work that engine. Take it to max RPM, launch it on starts. Dog it, re-load it up, run high RPMS, etc...

Then spend 45m cooling it down on the highways before parking it.


You do not have to wait until any specific mile to bang on your engine, you just have to have it fully up to temperature, before doing anything silly.



Do any of this 20m after you've just started it (on a new engine) for a daily commute... is what will harm your engine the most.

Yeah Ford's engineers are idiots - no reason to follow Ford's recommendation.

 

[Grimace427]

Yeah Ford's engineers are idiots - no reason to follow Ford's recommendation.

Ford engineers aren't sitting in your passenger seat giving you strict instructions on how to properly break-in your engine either.

 

[whatjones911]

Doesn't take anything close to 2h to get up to temp. So get on the gas sooner!

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