So based on this formula(and assuming you have 27.7" tires) you would only need to go 127mph with 4.56 gears to exceed 7,000rpm shaft RPM's which is higher than most shafts are rated(certainly the stock driveshaft).
With a high quality driveshaft rated to 9,000rpm you can go 163mph with 4.56...
Driveshafts can vibrate based on resonant frequencies from specific RPM's of the shaft itself. The shaft can be perfectly balanced and still cause a vibration at a specific RPM based on its length, shaft wall thickness, and construction(AL, steel, CF). So with lower(numerical) gears you may have...
Again transmission gears are irrelevant. Only vehicle speed, tire height, and rear gear ratios matter. If you are racing your car, at whatever speeds you get your driveshaft will be spinning faster with the shorter gears.
I'm assuming people aren't only going to drive 45mph though. If you intend to race the car your driveshaft will be spinning faster. Like I said earlier it may not be a problem but driveshaft safety loops exist for good reasons.
The transmission ratio is not relevant so I'm not sure what your point is? At a given road speed the car with 4.56 gears will be spinning its driveshaft faster than a car with 3.73 gears.
I'm trying to find a calculator so as to show the actual difference based on speed and tire height so that...
It may not pose a real problem but it is always something to consider when you are spinning the driveshaft faster and faster. At some point you will hit the critical speed limit of the shaft and it will catastrophically fail. Most quality aftermarket shafts are rated to 9,000 shaft RPM which...
You are wrong again. For a 3.73 gear ratio, for every rotation of the rear tires the driveshaft turns 3.73 times. For a 4.56 gear the driveshaft spins 4.56 times for every tire rotation. Engine and transmission is completely irrelevant. As long as the car is moving the driveshaft is spinning...
With the variations in types of chassis dynos, calibrations, local air quality, local fuel availability, and even things like tire pressures and wear, getting wheel HP from a manufacturer will never happen.
Do the O2 sensors have wiring harness extensions? If yes, replace them with quality ones(Kooks, ARH, any of the top header brands should be able to supply them). If not, replace the driver's side(bank 2) O2 sensor.
An AFR of 20+ at idle is perfectly normal. Cruise would be around 15-16ish, WOT...