Edit : #8 post : is the sequence to remove Base handling package camber pins.

[Flyhalf]

Allignment in.
- 2.2 camber is basically max out
Rear i stay at 1.9 which us a good starting point also for my mustang.
Front Zero toe (not ideal for track but better for daily)
Rear toe in for better stability in braking zone.

ONE THING THOUGH
OS TRONGLY ENCOURAGE EVERYOME TO DO AN ALLIGNMENT EVEN IF THE CAR IS NEW.
Look at the rear camber and toe. This is why sometime..someone claims to have destroyed one tire only.

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[Epiphany]

Nice.

 

[Tomster]

Allignment in.
- 2.2 camber is basically max out
Rear i stay at 1.9 which us a good starting point also for my mustang.
Front Zero toe (not ideal for track but better for daily)
Rear toe in for better stability in braking zone.

ONE THING THOUGH
OS TRONGLY ENCOURAGE EVERYOME TO DO AN ALLIGNMENT EVEN IF THE CAR IS NEW.
Look at the rear camber and toe. This is why sometime..someone claims to have destroyed one tire only.

Too much camber isn't good either. When I ran the FP recommended settings previously, the tires wore better and my times were a second faster. I tried increasing the camber a bit and it was too much. I just happened to pull the wheels for a brake pad inspection and stumbled on some damage from what I believe was the bus stop (newly installed) rumble strips. I wish I took photos of the tires before I chucked them. Anyway, more isn't always better.

As for your rear toe, those adjustments are a bitch. Not only are the EOM adjustments difficult to work with, but the smallest adjustment drastically changes the setting. The front is easy to work with, the rear is a pain in the ass. Of note also is that it appears the alignment machine your shop used is a laser rack. They are as good as the operator and the calibration of the equipment. A string alignment is the way to go.

 

[Flyhalf]

Too much camber isn't good either. When I ran the FP recommended settings previously, the tires wore better and my times were a second faster. I tried increasing the camber a bit and it was too much. I just happened to pull the wheels for a brake pad inspection and stumbled on some damage from what I believe was the bus stop (newly installed) rumble strips. I wish I took photos of the tires before I chucked them. Anyway, more isn't always better.

As for your rear toe, those adjustments are a bitch. Not only are the EOM adjustments difficult to work with, but the smallest adjustment drastically changes the setting. The front is easy to work with, the rear is a pain in the ass. Of note also is that it appears the alignment machine your shop used is a laser rack. They are as good as the operator and the calibration of the equipment. A string alignment is the way to go.

Well it depends.
Mainly from the tire. And the trafk of course
Our cars love camber.
My mustang is happy at 3.5 front and around2 rear. More aggressive when A7 hoosier.
3R like a good camber but not that much.
A052 likes 3.2.
A 2.1 is a minimum good amount for track usage IMHO.

The rear toe is what i regret the most when i had the zl1 1le. Soooooo easy to adjust.
The technician hates me when im with the mustang lol

 

[Tomster]

Well it depends.
Mainly from the tire. And the trafk of course
Our cars love camber.
My mustang is happy at 3.5 front and around2 rear. More aggressive when A7 hoosier.
3R like a good camber but not that much.
A052 likes 3.2.
A 2.1 is a minimum good amount for track usage IMHO.

The rear toe is what i regret the most when i had the zl1 1le. Soooooo easy to adjust.
The technician hates me when im with the mustang lol

our cars are heavy. more camber means accellerated wear on the tire. and yes, it depends on the track.

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