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Edelbrock vs Gen 2 Whipple

Ruiner46

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Whipple's head unit has a bolt that ties to the bracket with all the pullies on it. Those of you running the spacers, are you just removing the bolt, or did you find some other solution? Any issues without the bolt?
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Burkey

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Whipple's head unit has a bolt that ties to the bracket with all the pullies on it. Those of you running the spacers, are you just removing the bolt, or did you find some other solution? Any issues without the bolt?
@Roh92cp your thoughts?
 

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@Burkey I'm sure you've seen it in the other thread, but I recommend a .045" orifice instead of the .015" that comes in the kit. There's a considerable lag with the stock one and my tuner (very well known around the midwest US) had trouble with a smooth transition.
 
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Got it 99.9% finished today. It runs, put it that way.
Placed some nuts on the bolts to set the depth for fitment of the spacers. Basically used the bolts to stop the spacers sliding around, the nuts to stop the bolts protruding below the line of the spacers and some electrical tape wrapped around the whole show to stop them falling off.
My thought was that electrical tape usually sticks to almost nothing except itself...
Yeah nah..turns out it also sticks to the spacers quite nicely :facepalm:
The plan was to simply lift the blower slightly once the bolts were started and just yank the tape out. For those playing at home, don’t do this. Use something else. Tie wire? Cable ties? ANYTHING other than the way I did it would be an upgrade!

Swapping the hex head bolts at the fuel rails for socket head cap screws was WELL worth it.
I have no idea how you guys have done it in the past without the spacers. Room? What room?

Seems to me they would do well to supply an extension harness for those of us running the 103mm TB. I pulled the entire loom (alongside the heater hose) as far forward as possible to gain some length yet the cables are still stretched bar-tight. Not good. This will definitely need a remedy.

I’ll cover a little more ground when time permits.
 
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Burkey

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@Burkey I'm sure you've seen it in the other thread, but I recommend a .045" orifice instead of the .015" that comes in the kit. There's a considerable lag with the stock one and my tuner (very well known around the midwest US) had trouble with a smooth transition.
I did see that.
I pulled the pill out entirely. Not sure how it’ll work out.
If it’s not quite right, I’ll certainly take your advice!
I kind of wonder if the design of the 103mm might make it a little easier to control boost.
For those who haven’t seen it:
(Apologies for the production quality)
 

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Got it 99.9% finished today. It runs, put it that way.
Placed some nuts on the bolts to set the depth for fitment of the spacers. Basically used the bolts to stop the spacers sliding around, the nuts to stop the bolts protruding below the line of the spacers and some electrical tape wrapped around the whole show to stop them falling off.
My thought was that electrical tape usually sticks to almost nothing except itself...
Yeah nah..turns out it also sticks to the spacers quite nicely :facepalm:
The plan was to simply lift the blower slightly once the bolts were started and just yank the tape out. For those playing at home, don’t do this. Use something else. Tie wire? Cable ties? ANYTHING other than the way I did it would be an upgrade!

Swapping the hex head bolts at the fuel rails for socket head cap screws was WELL worth it.
I have no idea how you guys have done it in the past without the spacers. Room? What room?

Seems to me they would do well to supply an extension harness for those of us running the 103mm TB. I pulled the entire loom (alongside the heater hose) as far forward as possible to gain some length yet the cables are still stretched bar-tight. Not good. This will definitely need a remedy.

I’ll cover a little more ground when time permits.
My stage 1 kit came with a tb extension. I’m surprised they didn’t include one with your 103mm tb...?
 
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Burkey

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My stage 1 kit came with a tb extension. I’m surprised they didn’t include one with your 103mm tb...?
I really don’t know what’s going on.
The included instructions for the Pro-tuner kit are generic for both 15-17 and 18-19 models.
I also have another set of instructions from the earlier kits, showing a 180* fitting for the fuel rail, plus an extension for the fuel line. Neither were supplied in the kit I have...
Also, none of the parts I’m missing are documented in the “supplied materials” section of EITHER set of instructions...
Fortunately, the rails have extra entries, so I was able to bend the stock hose to make it work.
Again, I don’t think it’s ideal but it’s functional for the purposes of getting it running.
@Edelbrock Tech is the15899 kit supposed to come with a TB harness extension, fuel line extension and 180* fitting for the rail?
 
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Burkey

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All buttoned up and running.
Made some adjustments to my UPR Whipple catch-can setup.
Tapped a thread in an existing hole near the strut tower, as a temp solution I used some nylon rod as a spacer and also had to alter the arrangement at the top of the can for clearance to the hood. Eventually I’ll replace the nylon with aluminium and paint the fittings black. Cos tidy is king!
Opposite side just needed the hose shortened up a little.
The eagle-eyed will notice that I’ve spent some time making the heater hoses etc a little prettier than they normally would be. Amazing what you can do with some sheaving and some heatshrink.

D66E56FE-C0B4-4410-B52F-70FE5B9DFE44.jpeg
1F0FA78A-222E-4D84-B787-BA99D3A8B23B.jpeg
 
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Clearance is pretty damn tight on these RHD cars, even after quite a bit of trimming.
UPR engine mounts reduce the amount of twist, therefore the gaps “should” be fine.
Time will tell.
3C584F77-EE64-4EE4-A2D2-D8EF69D6C595.jpeg
 
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The famous airbox plug removed from its natural environment and wired to a switch in the cabin. Because the car is RHD and uses the IAT2 harness, the plug can be totally removed from the airbox area and relocated under the plastic radiator panel.
A simple push on/push off button beats the shit out of having to hold a toggle for 10 seconds every time you want to do “stuff”.
Base tune is loaded, runs VERY rich.
Logs are done and sent but they won’t be seen for a few days. Really hoping for good things :please:

8986003A-5C38-4C0B-B9B5-394163A14374.jpeg
37251426-1EE4-4AEC-9168-76B74915AB02.jpeg
 
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Whipple's head unit has a bolt that ties to the bracket with all the pullies on it. Those of you running the spacers, are you just removing the bolt, or did you find some other solution? Any issues without the bolt?
I left the top bolt out and have not experienced any ill affects.
 

Kona 18

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My stage 1 kit came with a tb extension. I’m surprised they didn’t include one with your 103mm tb...?
103mm does not need the extension, the factory connector reaches just fine. The extension is only needed when using the stock TB bc of where the motor ends up, but on the 103mm it's not needed
 
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Burkey

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103mm does not need the extension, the factory connector reaches just fine. The extension is only needed when using the stock TB bc of where the motor ends up, but on the 103mm it's not needed
Hmmm.
You make me wonder if the loom is slightly different either by year model or LHD/RHD.
I’m not comfortable with the amount of tension on the wiring and plug. There’s no shorter path that could possibly be taken and the entire loom is sitting forward of where it would be if it was relaxed. Put simply, if the loom was still sitting in the clips that Edelbrock require us to remove from the cam covers, it wouldn’t reach at all.
 
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Burkey

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Well, she’s up and running. It’s early days of course, base tune and all that.
One thing that shocked me at first was the IAT2 reading.
Ambient temp was 16*c (61*f) and the IAT2 was showing 7*c (45*f) on startup, peaking at 10*c (50*f) after a short drive, this is NOT possible...
Took the car home to think about it a little.
Seems that the sensor can cold-soak just as much as it can heat-soak. Having not driven it for quite some time and the overnight temps here may have created a unique situation.
I let the car sit for an hour or thereabouts in the hope of creating some heat-soak into the sensor, mainly to prove that it wasn’t faulty.
Drove for about 10 minutes.
Highest IAT was 23*c (73*f) lowest was 20*c (68*f).
It’s too early to say for sure, but at face value, this thing absolutely kills my old setup in terms of post blower temps. MUCH more testing required before I can say for sure. All of this assumes that the two sensors are calibrated the same of course.
The tuning is still in its very early stages so I really can’t make anymore comment than that at this stage. I’m hoping to have it all sorted soon enough though.
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