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Edelbrock E-Force Troubleshooting Manual

mikengail

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I think everyone slots the rail holes to make it easier to install
That's what I did when I changed injectors last. Plus, I used a slightly longer bolt. MUCH easier to install. Well, nothing is easy about those fuel rails, but slotting the bolt holes makes it considerably less difficult. I also didn't use the fuel rail clips. I have a set of ID1050x injectors arriving sometime next week. I'm not going to bother installing them, until I get a return-style fuel system for E85. Good luck...
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Torinate

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Anyone had the supercharger cover off and the brick out? Got any picks? Wondering if you can see the bypass valve from there. Wondering if there’s any way to clean the butterfly itself.

Thanks in advance!!
 

engineermike

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Do you edelbrock stage 2 stock-tune guys notice the throttle acts like a switch when you get deeper into it? Like it's pretty tame at light throttle but once you go past a certain point you get all the torque *right now*?
 

Torinate

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Do you edelbrock stage 2 stock-tune guys notice the throttle acts like a switch when you get deeper into it? Like it's pretty tame at light throttle but once you go past a certain point you get all the torque *right now*?
Hey Mike.

Stage 1.5 lol. Aftermarket tune. You’ve reviewed a few logs for me in the past. Didn’t see anything obvious. Still have the off idle stumble and idle misfires. Still looking for a fix! The off idle stumble is sporadic but when it does it, it’s like the car just sputters for a second and then goes. The occasional exhaust backfire when letting off gas at part throttle. It will pop once then normal.

I do have a specific thread for the idle misfires. Maybe I’ll find it and update or at least bring it to the top lol.

I’ve played with the vacuum for the bypass valve and changed the nitrous pill slowing or speeding up the boost drop off. Same issues and no change. Vacuum tested for leaks many times. The usual diagnostic stuff done - cleaned MAF, changed plugs x 2, moved coils, cleaned injectors etc. I’m stumped.

Thought I’d see if there is a physical way to see the actual bypass butterfly and if it needs to be cleaned. Stabs in the dark looking for answers as everything so far hasn’t worked.

Is it a tune thing? Is it a mechanical thing? No cel. No stored codes. I know there’s an issue but the car doesn’t know.

Ideas are always welcomed!
 
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@Torinate sounds very much like a fuel thing. Was it Dino tuned or remote?
 

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Torinate

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@Torinate sounds very much like a fuel thing. Was it Dino tuned or remote?
Remote tuned. Tune is 4+ years old. These issues started 3 years ago. I’ve lived with them since. Been frustrating because I don’t know if they’re related to each other. Idle misfires and the hesitation.

It gives the impression of a vacuum leak but it’s been tested 2+ times for over 2 hours. Nothing. Gauge reads 21-22 vacuum at idle.

Fuel is consistently 94 octane Petro Canada with occasion 93 from Mobil and Esso.

Fuel trims don’t fall off at all. DW 95 injectors. Stock pump and BAP.

Car is winter stored in a heated garage.

One thing I’ve thought of is pulling the injectors out again and sending them to be professionally cleaned and flow tested (and new o-rings) and see if anything shows up. Of course, putting the injectors in was the absolutely biggest pain in the butt with the whole install, so I’ve been dreading doing that.

But yea, a leaky injector *could* cause the exhaust back fire if it drips on decel. Would it cause the other issues? Not sure. The idle misfires are all over the map as what cylinder. I can literally watch mode 6 data on Forscan and hear the exhaust pop on idle and watch the misfire count go up.

Have done KAM reset, misfire monitor reset in Forscan and crank relearn on nGauge without any change.

Compression test was spot on.

No codes have ever come up.

I’m stumped…
 

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Do you edelbrock stage 2 stock-tune guys notice the throttle acts like a switch when you get deeper into it? Like it's pretty tame at light throttle but once you go past a certain point you get all the torque *right now*?
I just helped a friend tune his 18 Stage 2. We had issues with a certain tuner. Anyways, long story short. With one tuners tune, the throttle and boost acts exactly like you are saying, with another tuner, the car is smooth as can be without this on and off feeling. I believe it is all in the tune.
 

engineermike

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I determined that the edelbrock tb model used in their stage 2 tune is inaccurate. It basically results in the throttle not opening enough at part throttle. There is logic that pushes the blade wide open once you get past a specified pedal % so it doesn’t affect wot. But the result is low torque at part pedal. There is something called IPC (independent plausibility check) that checks the engine final torque output to make sure it’s reasonable (unintended acceleration mitigation). Edelbrock lowered the IPC min torque values drastically so it wouldn’t set torque error codes with the inaccurate tb model. I spent some time fixing the tb model and once I was done, not only did it satisfy the torque check with very tight oem-like limits, but it also has much better part pedal response and linearity.
 

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If using a 2018+ Stage 1 carb eo E-force Kit stock with no mods, is the Edelbrock competition Cold Air Intake # 15811 plug and play? or would need a tune adjustment and might not fit to the stage 1 throttle body? Or it only fits on Stage 2? the descriptions are not clear and just simply say for use with edelbrock e-force superchargers 15-23. or no benefit as all if keeing carb eo and the stock 91 tune?
 
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If using a 2018+ Stage 1 carb eo E-force Kit stock with no mods, is the Edelbrock competition Cold Air Intake # 15811 plug and play? or would need a tune adjustment and might not fit to the stage 1 throttle body? Or it only fits on Stage 2? the descriptions are not clear and just simply say for use with edelbrock e-force superchargers 15-23. or no benefit as all if keeing carb eo and the stock 91 tune?
The #15811 changes the size of the MAF cross section, so it would require a tune update. Stock TB is 80mm and Edelbrock's is like 103mm. No way the same inlet tube fits. Also, that aluminum piece in the kit looks like an adapter for the throttle body, but if this is the newer modular design it might be an adapter for stock. Best to call their customer support line before you buy anything.
 

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Does the Stage 1 and Stage 2 kits work with ACC (adaptive cruise control) I mean does the install interfere and make contact with the sensor on the bumper guard?
 

Torinate

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Does the Stage 1 and Stage 2 kits work with ACC (adaptive cruise control) I mean does the install interfere and make contact with the sensor on the bumper guard?
Nope. Not at all. Just be careful during the install not to loosen or move the radar unit. I have adaptive cruise on mine and it’s just fine…
 

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I looked in the manuals for both Stage 1 / State 2 Carb EO 2018+ kits, I cannot find what oil edelbrock says should be run with the kits other than 91 minimum Octane. Is it 5W-50? And are the oil change intervals regular 6 months etc, or 3000 miles/ 3 months like other kits?
 

illtal

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I looked in the manuals for both Stage 1 / State 2 Carb EO 2018+ kits, I cannot find what oil edelbrock says should be run with the kits other than 91 minimum Octane. Is it 5W-50? And are the oil change intervals regular 6 months etc, or 3000 miles/ 3 months like other kits?
This I ran 5-20, 5-30, and 5-40. Personally if you're running E fuels, it doesn't matter. You will definitely change oil well before 10k miles. Petrol is a bit different.

If you're going to race or run an extended stock like interval I would say run it thicker. If not you can run it like stock because of the extra drain intervals.

The car will run hotter than stock if you are in boost a lot, but I wouldn't say to run thicker oil just because of that: I would say it depends of how frequently you will change your oil and what kind of fuel.

Personally, I wouldn't run 5-50 it's 30 points higher than stock on the fat end. The bearing clearances can't change just because you've decided to run thicker oil and also the VCT phasers may not react the same, it's the same as when the oil loses viscosity and the phasers go wonky before an oil change.

I do have some 5-50 for break in on my new engine just to catch whatever it can for 3-500 miles, then I'm going down to 5-35 5 quarts of 5-30 and 5 of 5-40.

Hope that helps
 

engineermike

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There is no 5w35! :D

I generally use 5w40 but was forced to go redline 5w50 due to unique phaser issue. My preference is pennzoil platinum euro 5w40 or qs ultimate durability euro 5w40 if you can find it. If you are hell bent on 5w30 then I’d use Castrol 5w30 a3/b4.
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