Edelbrock E-Force Troubleshooting Manual

[allicedout]

I wasn't really shopping for a supercharger but the Edelbrock was 45% off on Black Friday 2 years ago so it was a deal for me. The Whipple option I was looking at was in the 9-10k range. What's a turbo set up worth these days?

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[mikengail]

I wasn't really shopping for a supercharger but the Edelbrock was 45% off on Black Friday 2 years ago so it was a deal for me. The Whipple option I was looking at was in the 9-10k range. What's a turbo set up worth these days?

Less than $10k, installed here in Albuquerque, depending on your installer. Go to Hellion's website and look up their Twin Turbo Street Sleeper kit for your year and model.

I know what you mean by getting the Edelbrock at such a low cost. I got mine when they first came out for a little less than $5k. The vendor had a big discount and Edelbrock had a $500 rebate promotion. I like it though. It's been a fun experience, both driving and wrenching...

 

[illtal]

The Reliability of the TVS units are far superior than the whipple units.
I got my Kit in 2018 and by the time I started doing upgrades with the TB and the competition box kit, they had already drastically increased prices on those two items. the 8 rib setup was drastically increased as well. So I decided against it and immediately made plans to eventually go turbo. I think the 8 rib pricing went from 11 dollars to 1800 dollars.... while the whipple 10 rib setup that can be adapted to whatever remained around 1100 dollars.

Edelbrock is basically chasing off customers.

 

[aleccolin]

Did you ever resolve this issue, or can anyone else confirm this amount of deflection is/is not normal? Looking at the amount of structural ribbing on other units especially the Whipple, the Edelbrock cover looks pretty wimpy.

New member here! Thanks for the add! I have a question on my SC. I had a misfire on cylinder # 8, found out it was the coil pack and replaced it. Ever since this the SC doesn’t sound the same and the lid balloons when I jump on it. I am making 10 lbs of boost and have never seen it ballon like that. Does anyone else’s lid balloon when they jump on it? I have had no luck with EB. The car is running fine and it builds boost but it does seem a bit less powerful in the upper gears and this could just be in my head but not sure. Any feedback would be appreciated.

 

[mikengail]

OK, for those of you who have been following my Stage-1 kit upgrade project, I have some good news. Mike Cabrera at Soler Performance ([email protected]) has been working with me on a way to upgrade our Stage-1 kits to one of their 103mm Throttle Bodies. I sent Mike my Edelbrock Inlet Snout to 80mm TB adapter/spacer that came with our Stage-1 kits for modification. They just shipped the results back to me today with a scheduled arrival by next Wednesday.

Here are some pics of Soler's work:

I'll get this installed as soon as I can and let you all know the dyno results. Remember, I'm still at a 6-rib Stage-1 pulley system and I'm using a 120mm open element CAI made from parts listed on the PMAS website. The 120mm CAI is larger and less restrictive than the 113mm Edelbrock Stage-2 CAI.

For my 87mm project, my costs were as follows:

$230.95 Ford Performance Mustang Bullitt 87mm Throttle Body.
$109.95 Ford Performance Mustang GT 87mm Throttle Body Adapter.
$50.00 Porting Throttle Body Adapter.
$425.00 Juggernaut Performance Modified PMAS 120mm CAI.
$0.00 Lund Tune Update.

$815.90 Total. I think that Levittown Ford has the TB and Adapter cheaper than what I paid. Not too bad for a hair over 28 rwhp.

As for the Soler Performance 103mm Throttle Body upgrade, I'm out only $495 thus far. No charge for the adapter. Hope this helps for those of you on the fence about spending $5k on an Edelbrock Stage-2 Upgrade Kit...

 

[mikengail]

I finally added up the a la carte costs for a PMAS 120mm open element type CAI. The total is $336.88 and that includes shipping and taxes. Actually, I don't think that PMAS even charges taxes. The shipping is UPS Ground. It's obviously significantly cheaper than the $425 that Juggernaut charged me and the $499 that they list on their website now. I guess they're going to continue selling them, after all. When I bought mine, they said that they were going to stop selling them, after the last kit sold and mine was the next to last kit.

So, to upgrade to the Soler 103mm TB and the PMAS 120mm CAI, you would be out a total of $831.88 (495+336.88) plus the costs of a driver's side Valve Cover PCV Breather/Air Filter and a 1/2" to 3/8" brass hose reducer/splicer.

The 1/2" to 3/8" hose reducer/splicer is to directly connect the vacuum brake reservoir to the fitting on the snout of the front of the supercharger. Each fitting has two different hose sizes. The large PMAS 90-degree Silicone Coupler doesn't have fittings for the Brake Aspirator connection and the driver's side PCV hose. Don't worry. Bypassing and eliminating the plastic Brake Aspirator control valve device will not change the way that your brakes perform. Also, you can save a little change by getting the hose clamps locally or on Amazon and cutting out the black clamps that PMAS offers. That's what I would do. Besides, I prefer the stainless steel look of standard hose clamps anyway.

Now, one of the other costs may be a tune update from your tuner. So far, Lund hasn't charged me for updates, yet, even though I have been willing to pay for them. Here are the PMAS part numbers that have to be used for 2015-2023 5.0 Mustangs:

Z-Coupling-500403 Silicone Angled Reducer Coupler 90 Degree ($40.06).

H-120B1 120mm MAF Housing w/7" Filter ($149.00).

Z-Clamp-4000B - 91mm to 114mm Hose Pipe Clamp - Black ($4.76).

Z-Clamp-5000B - 118mm to 140mm Hose Pipe Clamp - Black ($5.99).

SA-Heatshield-100 Intake Heat Shield Kit 15-19 Mustang 5.0 ($114.00).

UPS Ground Shipping ($23.07).

You can note in your online purchase order what type of filter you want, either Oiled, Dry or Race. They give you a choice. The $149 price is still the same. I got the Dry and bought an extra Race filter. You can also just email them or call them, instead. Here are the part numbers and prices for each type:

F2120V 7" Replacement Oiled Air Filter ($71.50).

F120V 7" Replacement Non Oiled Air Filter ($35.00).

F3120V "7 Conical Race Filter ($50.00).

I don't have the costs handy for my PCV Replacement Breather/Air Filter or my brass 1/2" to 3/8" hose reducer/splicer. It wasn't much at all though. PMAS also makes a heat shield for earlier model year 5.0 Mustangs. It's a different part number and costs a little less, I think.

Well, hope this helps some of you Stage-1 guys and gals. Let me know what you all think...

 

[Torinate]

Thanks for the breakdown!

My next little project in the spring when the car comes out.

I have to see the vacuum lines though to be sure I know what to do with them. Can’t remember how many lines come off the intake tube now. I’m still using the factory block with the vacuum hoses.

 

[Torinate]

Do you have the nitrous pill in the bypass valve tubing still?

You mentioned being able to hear the blower more - still the case?

 

[mikengail]

Do you have the nitrous pill in the bypass valve tubing still?

You mentioned being able to hear the blower more - still the case?

I have kept the pill installed. She's still touchy as hell on the street. The Edelbrock nitrous jet is .015. I'm thinking of going down to .010, after I finish the Soler 103 project. And yes, the bigger open element CAI increases your ability to more clearly notice the blower whine.

As for removing the rubber hoses from the air tube, there are only 2 of them. One is the driver's side PCV and the other goes to the plastic Brake Aspirator Control Valve Apparatus. In your Edelbrock Installation Manual, you are already shown how to partially bypass that system. If your air tube doesn't have the two connections like the stock air tube has, then you just delete them like I explained above. The PMAS large 90-degree Silicon Coupler that serves as the air tube to your TB, doesn't have those connection fittings cast into them like the stock air tube does. I suppose those or similar fittings could be made to fit, but it's an easier, quicker and less cluttered solution to bypass both connections as I already explained above.

By the way, there are quite a few other posts on other sub-forums of Mustang6g that explain in more detail about how to eliminate both the PCV hose and the Brake Aspirator. Use the Search function and check them out. That's what I did.

Good luck. This could be a nice little Winter project for you that could push you close to or over 700 rwhp. Regardless of who your tuner is, I would go with a minimum of the 56lb Predator port injectors and a BAP, before attempting the 103. I might end up having to go to ID 1050x port injectors, if my fueling ends up too close to borderline, for my peace of mind...

 

[mikengail]

Got the Soler 103mm Throttle Body installed this evening. It's huge, but clears the hood and leaves plenty of room for the PMAS 120mm CAI.

Drove it around gently for about an hour of mixed stop-and-go/highway cruising. No WOT. Good street manners. Lund wants a WOT pull datalog in 4th or 5th tomorrow to see what adjustments, if any, are required. After that, I'll get her dyno'd again next week to see where I'm at. Should be over 700 rwhp by a significant margin.

This was an easy install, real easy. PMAS Black Race filter pictured. The PMAS dry filter and oiled filter are both blue. I got the dry version sitting on the shelf. Will switch to the blue, after I get those dyno numbers. Thanks to all those following. Hope this helps...

 

[Torinate]

Good luck on the dyno! This is going from the 87 to the 103?

Can’t wait for results!

 

[mikengail]

Good luck on the dyno! This is going from the 87 to the 103?

Can’t wait for results!

Yep, that's it. 87 to 103. Fit like a glove. No more high-heat double-sided tape around the TB opening to help the CAI fit properly. I know that, in one of the pics below, the Soler bolt pattern adapter says 95mm to 80mm, but it was ported by Soler to take full advantage of the 103.

So, basically, you can upgrade just about any Edelbrock 2650 Stage-1 Mustang to a Stage-2 (minus the 8-rib and pulleys) for around $850 or so. Plus, since the 120mm PMAS a la carte open-air type CAI is larger than the Edelbrock closed 113mm Stage-2 airbox, you should pull more rear-wheel horsepower.

 

[mikengail]

Datalogged a couple of WOT pulls, one in 4th and the other in 5th. Lund said there was no change needed in the tune. She feels like she's definitely pulling harder from 6,500 rpm to 7,500 rpm. Dyno is scheduled for next Tuesday morning, Moutain Time. I'll have the results posted by the afternoon...

 

[Torinate]

Datalogged a couple of WOT pulls, one in 4th and the other in 5th. Lund said there was no change needed in the tune. She feels like she's definitely pulling harder from 6,500 rpm to 7,500 rpm. Dyno is scheduled for next Tuesday morning, Moutain Time. I'll have the results posted by the afternoon...

Awesome! Good luck!!!

 

[Torinate]

Thinking about this… 7500 rpm in 4th and 5th. Crazy speeds! I don’t want to know…

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