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mikengail

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Thinking about this… 7500 rpm in 4th and 5th. Crazy speeds! I don’t want to know…
That's still not too fast for a 10r80 and 3.55 rear gears. Now, if it was a 6r80 and 3.15 gears, that would absolutely be crazy fast. I was watching the tachometer and didn't pay any attention to the speedometer. I will say this. She got to 7,500 rpm in one damned hurry. Lol...
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mikengail

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I gave Lund a 8100 RPM 4th Gear Pull once, eyebrows where raised.
No doubt. Lol. For 10r80/3.55 guys, I think that 4th tops out at 94mph and 5th at 109mph. Not too bad on a remote safe stretch of asphalt. Approximately 13% faster for 10r80/3.15 guys...
 

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Datalogged a couple of WOT pulls, one in 4th and the other in 5th. Lund said there was no change needed in the tune. She feels like she's definitely pulling harder from 6,500 rpm to 7,500 rpm. Dyno is scheduled for next Tuesday morning, Moutain Time. I'll have the results posted by the afternoon...
So just to clarify this is the stage 1 tune your referring too? Can't wait for the results, I street tuned my stage 1 with Lund and have no idea what kind of numbers I'm making... Hopefully get on a dyno this spring.
 

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No doubt. Lol. For 10r80/3.55 guys, I think that 4th tops out at 94mph and 5th at 109mph. Not too bad on a remote safe stretch of asphalt. Approximately 13% faster for 10r80/3.15 guys...
i have a 3.55 manual car, I think I hit over 170
 

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mikengail

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So just to clarify this is the stage 1 tune your referring too? Can't wait for the results, I street tuned my stage 1 with Lund and have no idea what kind of numbers I'm making... Hopefully get on a dyno this spring.
Well, of course, my original tune with Lund and my Stage-1 kit has changed several times. Adding Long Tubes with no cats or resonators required a tune update. Adding the Predator injectors and a BAP required a tune update. Adding the 87mm Bullitt TB and PMAS 120mm CAI required another tune update. Adding the 103mm TB didn't require any changes at all, surprisingly.

I never used the Edelbrock tune...
 

mikengail

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i have a 3.55 manual car, I think I hit over 170
I've had mine up to 165 and she was still pulling a little. I don't know what gear or rpm. I was too focused on keeping her between the white lines. Lol...
 

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Well, of course, my original tune with Lund and my Stage-1 kit has changed several times. Adding Long Tubes with no cats or resonators required a tune update. Adding the Predator injectors and a BAP required a tune update. Adding the 87mm Bullitt TB and PMAS 120mm CAI required another tune update. Adding the 103mm TB didn't require any changes at all, surprisingly.

I never used the Edelbrock tune...
Sorry man I didn't read all the way back. I never used the Edelbrock tune either and went with Lund from the get go because I added injectors and BAP right from the get go. Good luck on the dyno.
 

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I gave Lund a 8100 RPM 4th Gear Pull once (MT82-D4), eyebrows where raised.
lol.

I bet there were more than a few eyebrows raised!

I’m a 6r80, so top of 5th is jail time here.
 

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lol.

I bet there were more than a few eyebrows raised!

I’m a 6r80, so top of 5th is jail time here.
They did warn me that it was almost too much speed for most roller only type dynos
Then I explained to them it was on an empty interstate. I think i have to logs somewhere.
The dyno I go to locally has an eddy current type dyno.
 

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Hi guys. I know this question has been asked before but I need to go there. Stage 2 2650. Installing ID 1050s. What is the simple, best way to do this? My mechanic hasn't been able to do it and claims they don't fit. Some suggest no clips, some suggest slotting the rail holes? What is the 100% best way?
 

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Got her on the dyno with the Soler 103mm Throttle Body. 701 rwhp / 585 rwtq. Dyno guys said the logs showed air/fuel as rich as 8 at one point. Sending those logs to Lund today. Ran her at the track last Sunday. 11.4/124 was my best run. No traction. I used Nitto NT05R drag radials in a 305/35-R19 size. I tried different air pressures of 19, 18 and 17 psi, plus I warmed them up really good in the burnout box. They still wouldn't stick and spun through the 1st three shifts in the A10. DA was over 7000 ft, so that didn't help either. She's fat at over 4,000 lbs. Dyno guys suggested starting at 22psi for the Nittos, since she weighs so much. I'll try that next weekend...

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Nice!

So you got your 700 whp!

you went from 697 to 701 with the TB? Kinda thought it would be more. Nevertheless, that’s awesome!

What were your 60 foot times at the track? 1/8 mile time and mph. How many mph did you pick up on the back end?
 

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Hi guys. I know this question has been asked before but I need to go there. Stage 2 2650. Installing ID 1050s. What is the simple, best way to do this? My mechanic hasn't been able to do it and claims they don't fit. Some suggest no clips, some suggest slotting the rail holes? What is the 100% best way?
I think everyone slots the rail holes to make it easier to install
 

mikengail

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Nice!

So you got your 700 whp!

you went from 697 to 701 with the TB? Kinda thought it would be more. Nevertheless, that’s awesome!

What were your 60 foot times at the track? 1/8 mile time and mph. How many mph did you pick up on the back end?
I was expecting a little more too. Lund says the bigger TB would come into its own with more boost and E85. ID1050x should be here by Friday. Dual pump return style fuel system, after that. No hurry on my end. I need a better rear tire/wheel combo more than anything else right now.

I'm going to to give the Nittos another try next weekend starting at 22 psi and going down a pound or two, after that. If that doesn't work, then I'll try a 17x11 rear wheel and M/T or Hoosier slicks. Throwing more power won't help, if I can't get her to stick.

Lastly, I'm going to watch the DA predictions and try to run when it's under 5,000 ft. Hopefully, they will start running in the evening here soon. This is the first time I've ever raced this car. I didn't get the roll bar installed, until too late in the season last year...

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